bheinen74

Coolant Temp Sensor description for sure. They won't throw a code. -About 20 bucks new. You might have gotten a bad one. Try another parts place than the one you just got.

Wiring can be run from along the driver fender back to where the door/fender/windshield corner meet, then run the wire up along the A pillar seal from there to the top, wrap around and onto the roof rack. Hella 500 are good. Make sure you get Hella and not the fake "optilux hella" which Hella does not really mark there name on for a reason. Cheap approach to mount is use the stainless hose clamps to tighten the brackets they come with to the roof rack bars. Those stainless hose clamps will clamp it nicely, won't rust, and they can take the shape of most anything, and are quite secure.

gen2

v8 BRAT done here is just one

Pretty sure has to be shock upper mount? or the mustache bar bushing to frame? Do you have a quick picture?

OEM or is it garbage parts store stock?

I clicked on the link you provided in post 1 "It works or we'll buy it back from ya with our "Buy It Back" Guarantee!" Simple fix. Get the right one. I suggest radiatorbarn.com

This stuff I put a pack on each floor under the seat, and one in the glovebox, and sometime one in the trunk. It's not a poison, its a scented pouch that is mint/peppermint and mice will stay far from it.

In regards to some of the question: Make sure you use "Stable" gas stabilizer, in a tank of the best premium gas name brand premium. They always recommend 3/4 tank full. I myself recommend 1/2 tank. That way you can burn thru the old gas little quicker and top with fresh higher percent fresh gas. Also, I recommend using the jack points on the cars rocker frame rails for small jackstands. The idea is to not have the car fully in the air, that can stretch springs over time. You want just enough weight still on the car, but need to get the pressure off the tires so they don't flat spot. Do NOT use any tire dressing, if you have any on the tires now, wash it off with good dish-soap. The tire dressing will crack the rubber if it is on it. The entire car not suspended at all will weaken springs over time they will sag. Some things to think about are brakes freezing, if you have the tires off the ground then you can go turn the wheels, butt like i said if they are off ground completely, the springs will stretch. You don't want flatspots on your tire that is very bad on them. Disconnect the battery cables and store the battery in a 60-70 degree room. If you leave it in the car, disconnect the terminals or they will drain the battery over time /clock, radio presets, etc all drain if connected. Good luck. I have stored a 64 chevelle SS for 20 years, and currently storing a few Hondas, one for over 10 years now. Do not out them away wet in any form. Do not crack the windows...rodents will climb the door and come thru the gap. Use "mint" rodent prevention packets. forgot the name of them. put them on the floors and one in the glovebox.

Correct ea81 wagon, 80-84. The headlight style will be either single on a side or dual. Get the same to minimize any other issues.

A BRAT doesnt really have anything close to the ea82 as for measurement dimensions. Good luck.

2 happy soobs 2 sad soobs in the garage. huge drift

Timing is not on right.

Removed stock turbo exhaust (Stock midpipe and axle back) from the blue green 94SS removed fart can 3" exhaust (midpipe and axle back are one welded unit) from the maroon 94SS Swapped them from one car to the other, and reinstalled. Both on frozen ice/frozen concrete driveway. Its nice working on rust free cars. No broken bolts, nothing comes apart hard. After all is said and done, wonder if i should have had the blue green inspected before I made it the loud one. Hope salvage rebuilt inspection does not care about exhaust stuffs:banghead: Same day also removed 2 doors and tilt from a 78 Firechicken had to add that in, it was a long cold day. Started the day with a drive in the BAJA to go get some groceries. Tested out the newly installed tweeter kit. Started the BRAT first time in about 1month and 3 weeks. It was happy to get some gas flowing thru the weber.

Unfortunately, you have quite a rare model Subaru, not many others around your neck of the woods, so getting parts and bits for it is not an easy task. Denver would be a good place to look, and maybe KC at the pic n pulls. I am headed to KC late in the coming week and could at least look to see how many are in the yards, usually run into 1-3 ea81's. Someone on here said Omaha had a few ea81's in the pick n pull too. brent

Running the engine to temp before hand will heat them up nicely too.

did your gear fall off the distri into the engine/

Yes. Oems will fail around 175k miles or thereafter. Rebuilt autostore ones are no good from the time they are installed in 9 out of 10 times for the older Subarus. Usually, its the voltage regulator that has failed out of the box. This is one instance where "lifetime" warranty is more of a hassle, and soon the stores will deny waranty claim after you go thru so many units. Its the suppliers of rebuilts that are at fault, not the stores themselves. The suppliers test for good output but they are not testing regulators at all.

lifetime ones are usually autozone, oreillys, napa, and those are the ones that are no good from get go. Get OEM used and you should be fine. You need get out of the rebuilt aftemarket mentality on alternators, 9 times out of ten something is bad on them. Sure, they test put out 12+ volts at the bench test, but bench test doesnt care about testing voltage regulators and make sure they don't top out at over 16v. Get oem son. I found that out myself and by reading others advice on here too.

I don't have replacement seats. The replacement seats i could have got were usd and same, dirty, and then shipping and the price of used seats was double the cost of my NOS seat coverings. I only have seats "coverings" -never sat on removed at the dealer when car was new. They were only 80 bucks for coverings shipped. The used seats are double that and then plus shipping and they arent any better then the ones i already have in the car.

The old ones were money pits and got terrible mileage numbers and around here, kids in the snow in those were..... Pretty sure the era you mention is the same, just a little better on reliability. Why does the son/kid want and deserve one of these is the question. There are worse and there are better choices. Get a insurance quote first and foremost and comparison shop quotes with it verses other cars. That is likely to be a deciding factor. The things to look for to begin with are suspension bushings showing cracks or MIA. Stabilizer links like to break or come loose. Oil leaks, hoses, the normal things. If its an auto, which i presume it is, smell the ATF. Check body panel fitment of trunk/hatch, and really check the operation closing of the doors. The hinges on those were not the most intelligently designed things, way underengineered for the weight of the monstrous doors. one of those NEW had more rattles than a 30 year old subie with 500k miles on it has.

My newest Legacy SS has pretty dirty seats in the front, rears are nice still. The pictures I have are generic, not mine. Seat on left is the stock 94SS seat. Seat in right pic is 02/03 Impreza stock seat. what i have are 2 seats like in the left picture (i have the left and right of that) either needing cleaned and still will be old looking, and I have brand new old stock never sat in complete fronts and rears of the seat covers on the right pic. Do I dare even stripping off my old stuff and install the brand new stuff? I am sure it would work, but not sure how well it would turn out. Guess I might give this a whirl. the 02/03 seat coverings will match the blue green exterior on the car nicely. Not sure the backs would work so i will leave that for the next owner. My concern is the leg extension on the bottom cushion of the newer seat style. My seat has no cushion there, so it will have to be tucked under somehow (duct tape, staples, hogrings etc come to mind).

thats a problem there. it needs to be T'd in with the other side and pcv before it vents.

Hard to see, but i think the valve cover breathers wrap around and go behind most of the engine on the back side. That said, I do believe something is "hosed" in the way his hoses are hooked up. Somebody maybe messed up the install of this weber, I have seen that a many times on here who do not understand it. If that is the case, then it can be fixed, but damage may have already occurred that is not reversible. Mainly low/high oil pressure damage to whatever.

got the WRX's on. Will be sold this way minus my xhaust swap tomorrow. brent