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Everything posted by bheinen74
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Why not just get a 89-94 legacy and install a D/r in it, and wheel it. Cheaper than a swap to a earlier body, and lots more comfy and more options. ????
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As of now, i dont think i am going to make it. My campsite is already paid for too. oh well. Things are really busy. have fun guys, enjoy use of my campsight. Ben, if you can pm me your email, i will forward on my campsight reservation sheet from the IA DNR so you can use it...since it is reserved for 6 people.....
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"Here is one photo that shows a screw driver but might be a bit tight with the engine in the car:" thats not a picture of a car that has a Flexplate.. yours is a flywheel. Bad choice for picture...... Also, I have never had to remove the intake to get to the flexplate bolts to torque converter. use a 1/4 inch drive snap on red handled ratchet and short 6pt mm socket. Have done this in junkyards, at home, and in friends garages. Never remove the intake unless you are taking off heads......its an extra step and extra cost if you do that.
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Brake Caliper bracket mount, and it is cracked along the bottom edge.
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The scoop directs air flow directly to the turbo via the chimney when driving. When car is stopped at a stoplight, or turned off from running and then parked, the chimney->hoodscoop then allows the hot air to escape from under the hood as hot air rises. this is why you see many "blistered" clearcoats around the scoop, as the heat coming out of it tends to flake the clearcoat over time. On a side note, you can cook hotdogs over the chimney, its like a built in bbq grill.
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first off, if you are even thinking about replacing the injector, you need to depressurize the fuel system in the rails first and foremost. In the trunk there is a access panel cover on the pasenger side with 4 screws to get to the fuel pump connector. remove cover, Unplug connector. then start car and let run until the car dies. When it dies, the fuel system has lost its pressure. if you do not depressureize, all the fuel will leak into your cyclinder. Oh, and to remove the injector, you need to twist on it and pull slightly. one of these works well
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It was a sad day when Subaru introduced the EJ25 headgasket issue. Long live gen1 ej22 I do believe the prices for used cars with EJ25 will become lower priced for selling even than say a beat up 89-94 ej22 legacy. Reliability is worth more when pricing these than newness. So, my suggestion is same as others, good bye to the ej25 and hello ej22 swap.
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check for bent lateral links. My brothers 99 Outback front deer hit salvage car, had both sides rear lat links bent, they are supposed to be 100% straight, his were bent but they looked same on both sides. Due to forklift movement of the car at the salvage lot. His wore the insides down to the metal cords of the tires. Had to get good used lat links, then a old fashioned alignment of the toe. You say your had salvage hit front. Be they moved it with forks too. check the lat links, better yet, post a pic, i can tell you if they look good or not.
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there are many grounds, one for sure off the transmission going to near where the dogbone is. All grounds are important.
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the cost of shipping one is WAY less than the cost of a total paintjob, and when you factor in labor, welding, and patching materials before the repaint, shipping one is WAY WAY WAY cheaper.
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Make sure all 4 tires match, same brand, same tread, same style, same tread wear. If they arent same, then deduct from the sellers price the price of a set of 4 new tires., Also, I might say stay away from the car if it was driven on non matched tires. Look for leaks, duck your head under the front bumper looking for oil drips, or lots of greasy engine on the underside. make sure speedo is working. duck you head under to make sure if you know if its AWD or just a cheap front wheel drive only model car. The AWD will have a rear diff in between the rear tires. Make sure if its AWD that there is a center driveshaft still in place.
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will it bolt to a ej22t? not all ej, just the NA flavored ones.