bheinen74

my bumper is still good except the cover. I even have the foglites still good. the upper radiator support yes need. not the lower. But i need the area of that where it hooks to the tower , where the ABS wiring goes thru etc......hold off till i report back.

yes. what else to you have. going to head to KC pick n pull this coming saturday?? they had a forester in there last time that had entirely everything this one needs...and that place is cheap, well fairly cheap. trying to keep the total for parts to 200 on this, exception is the new rediator from radiator barn for 97.13 shipped.

and, the vehicle was serviced by Ramsey. I hate ramsey, they NEVER do anything right. on the door jamb, is a sticker, from RAMSEY "the odometer was reset to zero at 62k miles. Please add this amount to what is shown on the odo to get accurate mileage. Warning, do not remove this tag it is a federal violation to do so" the odo shows about 70k now. ramsey sucks, they would not have to replace the odo if they new how to properly fix the speedo base where it screws into the trans, Both front axle boots on the inner sides are popped. I did find the window sticker, car sold for 24,660 in SD new. inside of car is like new, must have had seat covers for majority of its life. a few things to address besides the upper fender rail damage. Has a rust spot on A pillar and right above window, must have had a failed windshield replacment where they gouged the paint at some point, I have written threads on failed windhsield replacements before. rear wiper is most likely frozen up due to rust. Battery was heavily corroded on the pos term, and going to charge it to see how it takes. Missing a rear tailgate bump stopper rubber. does not have hitch, or lsd has cargo shade cover, has cargo liner plastic tray. Altimeter works, mileage showed 29.13 avg so it must have been doing okay.

brought it home today. here it is. probably going to section in the front passenger upper rail, the main bottom frame rail is fine luckily. Wiring harness near ABS unit, is needing repaired. Got most of the side sheet metal pulled back today, tomorrow will work on seeing what can/can't be done on the upper rail. Ordered the radiator barn tonight so it should be in soon. Drove it up out of the back yard from the person who sold it, and up onto the trailer. Drove it off, and now am pushing it around, its bad to drive it with no coolant. Hopefully the pick n pull in KC still has the forester they had about 4 months ago. Can probably source all needed parts there for less than 200.

remember boys, and girls....... .... craigslist is full of guido scammers from nigeria that need moar money.

decided to save another Subaru. this one is: 1998 Forester S, heated package 5pd with clean title front end damage. heres a pic shes got brand new Yokohama tires, no rust, heated seats, 5spd, etc. paid 500. air bags did not pop. it needs: fiexed.... -new radiator -used hood, passenger fender, grill, passenger headlight passenger foglight over, part of the airbox intake. did not get into timing belt, hope she runs great. Tires and wheels are going on my 94SS if they clear the wheel wells. i've always wanted a builder of this in a 5spd. dont like black, but eh. already have a few black hoods located, but no luck on black fenders. radiator barn is only 97 shipped on the radiator.....deal..... future plans-lift, DR, and the ej22t i got laying around. nobody has a lifted-turbo'd Forester around here, YET might bob the back to convert to a BRAT-ish like thingamabobber.

wasted spark coils packs, are very tempermental to voltage inadequacies. I like the voltmeter on the older subarus, i feel it was a beneficial guage and i constantly monitor it. otherwise, blinky lights also are a sign on the new ones, the xmas tree effect we call it on bbs.legacycentral board

are not the parks all under water now....., lakes full of ecoli bacteria, and bat disease closures, not to mention a bear is wandering around in northern iowa....fun times ben why are you up so late, night owl?

nice purchase......cough i men nice barn find for no cost......

coil pack? igniter? do a compression check, properly and tell us what the results are. spark compression air fuel thats it.

shoot. you havent even had it that long, just put headgaskets in it. What was it you did and did not like about the RS. I have thought about one, but i would be comparing to my legacy turbos, which i think are really terrific in almost all ways at least for me. Why only have the Rs for short time make me understand the good and bad about them...thanks. hope you find right sti.

flywheel to crank bolts or cover plate to flywheel bolts

i have heard changing to different brands (pressure limits) of oil filters can change the click click click tisk tisk tisk on these. but not so sure after what you found in the lifters i was surprised it was not your oil pump tho. good writeup, way to save a ea82.

get rid of it while it still drives ASAP. take your minimal loss. Its worth more now than it will be when the trans is totally toast and the vehicle no longer moves. When it gets that point, quite soon, days, weeks, etc its worth scrap. trade it, get something that rates high on reliability consumer reports long term testing. probably not a Dodge, I dont think anyone has had succes in regards to the trans. you can probably buy a older honda odyssey van, and drive it for 5 or 6 years and sell it for what you buy it for tomorrow. They hold their value, its already dropped to bottom, and they get good mileage and uber dependable.

if it makes people feel any better, I have had good luck i have had 4 92-94 Turbo legs, all running with over 160k each, and never replaced a bearing. I hear my old 94TW with over 210,000 miles on it just had a bearing go.....though.

http://www.cartalk.com/piplayer/cartalkplayer.html?play=07smil.xml link to the car talk with subaru gas guage issue.........pretty good......450 dollar sending unit on a subaru question....

emotion and logic are a hard thing to deal with. Why not just pass this whole deal, and look for something in the 150k or less mileage range in the near future, another will come along, nicer, and maybe even that cheap. Whole lotta work to make a 250k car go another 10 years without going broke. For the amount of money to fix the 500 dollar car, you could have put the TOTAL into a decent nice low mileage rig...that might even have newer tires, brakes, shocks, tbelt etc. emotion tho, it a tuff battle..

really rare around here. I think the only one we know of in the past 5 years sited, McBrat just dismantled..... so VERY rare indeed for here I came across one in the pick n pull about 3 years ago, havent seen one there since.

Shawn. Can you maybe pop off each rear axle and spin each tire to see if the noise is coming from the hub/tire side, then with both axles popped off, spin the driveshaft which should spin the guts of the diff....to narrow down the noise if you havent done so. if the noise a click click click, or a pop pop pop....and in the diff without axles connected....you may have done this test.

or in the case of a Brat sending unit, actually making a slight bend to the lever makes contact again......I wrote a thread on the repair of mine, still working PERFECT after a year now or so. Also, do any of you guys listen to CARTALK. they have a online site to listen to their shows if you cant find the time for the radio version. They had a person call in about a subaru sending uinit a few weeks back.......

your location pretty much sums things up. Not too many good things posted about Ramsey, or C&S motors. I guess you are a Ramsey one....they are worthless at what they do..If you ever travel west, Denver has some good places i highly recommed.until then, i guess keep pressing them. this board will be of more help than any Iowa dealer,someone on here will find the problem, then you can go tell the dealer what it is they need to fix under your warranty. welcome to the board. might also check the newer forums over on : http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/ http://www.subaruforester.org/ they might have already gone over this unless yours is unique

This should be stickied or something, this is something that each and everyone should be inspecting frequently, and inspecting fairly periodically. If this part rust and is no longer functional, one could become stranded if ever getting a flat tire, it would render getting to your spare impossible if the handle breaks due to rustage.

Great winter car for you. It should be plenty good in the snow and reliable after some maintenance. Not a bad price, considering how low the miles are. And it looks pretty nice still for age.

your bumper is getting roasted like campfire marshmallows.... fix the exhaust tailpipe, no smores...