bheinen74

good luck, i would go if I had my exhaust header repaired. ttitwwop

Type of Wrenching: Shadetree, Maintenance What: Subarus EA81 and EJ22T, EJ22 and EJ25, Honda and GM... How long doing it: 23 years+ Other skills: Body work, general restoration, car show prep, had a 1964 Chevelle SS when i was 15, won 1st place trophy at the Monticello Camp Courageous show in it when i was 16. Helped restore another 64 chevelle SS, a 58 Chevy BelAir 4drt hdtp, and a 65 Chevy El Camino. (my dad still has the 58 and the 65 el). Someday will help him put together his 1934 Chevrolet pickup truck. Completely dismantled the outside of a black 79 Monte Carlo in 1989, replaced the rear quarter panel that a tractor plow/disc crumpled to a twisted pile of metal that stuck up in the air about 4 feet more than it was supposed to, and prepped the body including sandblasting and filler for a complete custom blue pearl paint, that a friend sprayed. Also have general carpentry house refurb experience, removal and installation of Grain Bins (think elevator sizes), and concrete slab, pad work including custom diamond patterns in the milk-house pole building style, pole building construction, siding. Welding, mostly arc and stick/gas acetylene, not so much into Mig

GD, yes and no, how would it have worked for 2 years after the install and receipts/docs show it was replaced. if the clutch was replaced 2 years ago and ran good until recently, then i guess its something in the adjustment all fubar'd after my new clutch in my 85 Brat, it took a bit to break it in, then it took some time to get the adjustment right, after a new cable as well. probably the adjustment, beings it worked for 2 years since it was installed. might even be the hill holder cable keeping it from getting adjusted properly...disconnect it til you get the clutch feeling good. then readjust the hill holder

Wix makes good ones that are top notch and i recommend them, using them in my SVX, Legacy Turbo, and CRX Si. My brother's 99 outback came to him from the auction with a Fram on it. He ran it for a while, like 3000 miles and when the oil change was due, he found the cartridge inside had become unglued from the base and was allowing lots of air etc in and not filtering right, so that is a good brand not to use, as others tell FRAM is garbage...and I have proof.

its over hiding behind the starter/heater hoses.... yeah PPD-p*ss poor design. Subaru ought to read this thread and make it visible.

MV is the euro code, Brumby is the Aus / downunder code, BRAT is the USDM code, lol all the same vehicle, but what year did you get? we only had 78-87. AU had til like 94?

in doing a EJ25 headgasket and timing belt job, to not replace the guide pulleys and tensioner.....that was direct to my dad from the Subaru Dealer. I say, replace the pulleys...they will not last til the next timing belt job, and on a interference engine, that is asking for it. what do you guys say on this. engine currently about 125k....ej25 DOHC 98 forester.

Car Country in Newton got in about 3 impretzles, one had a neat wing on back.... all had decent interiors They also still have the ea82 wagon with the Dual range 5spd still mounted to the intact engine as well. in all, they have about 18 subarus at that place, 8-9 legacy's. 3-4 outbacks, and the impretzels....and the lone ea82 with that 5pds dual range. This is a junkyard you go to, bring your tools, check in at the front desk and they will let you go get what you want. If you need a price, ask the front desk before you pull it. They dont have inventory list, over 5000 cars there though in total.

You have options if you want to use a 15" wheel on the newer ones. example: Primitive racing makes a rally wheel found here http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/brakes.htm those wheels will clear they are designed to clear what normally only a 16" would clear. second example, you could retrofit different rotors/calipers onto your car. third example, not recommended, but you could grind away the ears on the caliper until it clears the 15" wheel. 15" snows are cheap and plentiful. 16" and larger snow tires are quite pricey in comparison.

fuel pump sock might be clogged down in the lower portion, so it can not bring fuel in when it gets low. thats what i would check first.

this is messed up.... somebody who worked on that subaru, should never touch a subaru ever again and stick to something like bicycles or lawnmowers to work on.

for those who like smaller cars, like me, then there's a reason to not like the new huge ones. My former 06 Outback was a lot longer, and taller than my old 94 TW, but the 06 had half the room in it to haul my dogs., or anything else like parts. Also the 06 had less leg room in the backseat. I really like the size of my 94SS, and it seats 3 fine in the backseat, actually more room than my parent's 06 Legacy sedan. I hear the 2010 increased backseat legroom though.

even the updated one are only good for around 100k miles before they will fail too. The design of this bastard block, where the coolant passages are, and how they are so thin walled, is the problem. The design, even of the new gaskets, does not change how thin the area is.....and how easy it is to leak past the gasket. Subaru not at its best is all i can comment on really. I am going to take lots of pics of the process.

classic.. coolant bubbling into overflow.. no odd noises.. checked with the dealer it was last serviced at.. no records of headgaskets being replaced.. Dad is going to order the parts for headgasket job.. classic EJ25.. I told dad to yank it and replace with a ej22...... and be done..forever he doesnt like that idea..wants to proceed with headgaskets.. I told him the EJ25 is junk.. Yes... true...my brothers 99 outback is showing coolant useage and bubbles in the overflow too right now...I laugh at them in a way, but feel sorry. I continue to drive the snot out of my 94ss....love the fact of its headgasket design and 100% solid cooling. evil ej25

yeah...hard to find clean ones.

my old former CRX Sii had to replace the fronts at 187k, that was the first time the indicators scraped the rotor.......yes 0 miles until 187,000 miles, never had to do the rears.........sold the car at 226k and told the new buyers that it might need rear brakes My 94 Turbo Legacy Wagon, had to replace the front pads only at about 145k, not sure if they had been done before. I only use OEM from Subaru (or oem honda) brake pads.....if they go that long from the factory, they are most certainly better materials than the cheapo stores and last longer. My 92SS had to replace the rear rotors at about 150k My SVX had to have new rear rotors and pads at about 72k, its a heavy car.

Sti in USA is 2.5 Sti in all other markets is 2.0 2.0 is the better engine all around. In the US Subaru wanted something they thought could compete with Mustang, etc on accelration. On US pump gas, 2.5 did that better. ej20 is solid deck, much better and more durable. if you want the best built motor you can get, you use the EJ22T block with mixtures of the Sti build as for crank, heads, intake etc. enjoy your motor. way sufficient for normal driving. Only time anyone needs builts stuff is for the track or rally race, normal driving on the street, legally, factory stuff is all anyone needs.

I just hope Subaru of America monitors our posts on this terrific site.....that someday they give us a selectable fwd for the better fuel economy, and 4wd when needed, and dual range. But, I wont keep my hopes set too high on this, SOA sucks when it comes to what we want. For me, I could care less about huge power and creature comfort, they used to buld cars that got 30mpg, heck the 360 got 66mpg, Subaru, do it again show me your new car that beats mpg of my CRX

pretty much rebuilt everything done but hood and fender. got good used headlights, grill, side markers, extra roof bars, replacement working rear wiper motor, used AC vents non broken, used AC condensor, pretty much done now but the hood and fender. this parts were 155 bucks at a u pull it. only items needed: black hood black passenger fender. have those located in IN so may have to ship..... cool pics soon when its done. cheapest forester ever.......... rebooted the cv axles front. new brake pads rear. fresh fluids. yeah.......

take a boat.

my buddy did that on his 85 Yota EFI extended cab solid front axle crawler. So when you are crawling and bumping rocks, can not keep bumoing the skinny pedal on the big jarring bumps.

Delta cams has, or had a sale on camshaft regrinds.....they post on here when they have specials. pretty impressive gains with regrind on cam spot on Qman

1985-1991 honda civic hatch ones should work too. these do look great.

no biggie, it lasted 10 years, thats like triple the factory bumper to bumper warranty. They just dont build em to last much more. this will keep repair shops busy and its a profit/win for everyone.

if you looking for cheap seat wrench n go is where to go, got my leather heated brat /outback seats there....35 if power, 25 if non power i believe.