myossfeece

yeah that is actually kinda roomy compared to my workspace, It is so cluttered up at my usual workspace that if you farted you would risk losing bolt, sockets etc. etc. I like a workspace that invites CLAUSTRAPHOBIA. lol

yeah in my opinion the warm engine would start easier becase, it's warm so the piston rings have sealed up the t-stat is open, the oil is warm, and the fuel lines would still be pressurized. When it is cold out I have to put my foot on the floor to get rx to start but once warmed it starts every time without the use of the throttle. If I don't floor it you can crank on it all day and it WON'T start ever, unless you cranked on it long enough to start warming the engine up. hope this helps.

yeah it wasn't bad at all, we actually had alot of fun. We had the car complete I would say in a matter of 10 hrs, but it took two days because of running around for parts and food and what-not. As far as the invitations go for the crew (me, miles,) mostly and occasionally a third person I will drive to where ever and work a weekend on some soob simply for gas money, I am not trying to charge any body but I will be quick to claim on unused parts. on the way home we had a motor, intake, tranny, rear diff, a set of front fenders, three bags of clothes, three people, set of heads, starter, and radiator in the back of the rx and I was actually a comfortable ride for all in the car. Oh yeah we also had a spare set of timing belts because we are running open belt covers. any ways, good luck to all with future projects, and be creative with your cars because I believe your car is a reflection of your personality. l8ter

what up trog? hey man in the rx in 5th gear, 55 is at 2,750rpm 60mph in 5th is 3,000 65mph in 5th is about 3,250 if your doin 3,500 rpm in fifth gear your doin about 73 mph and doing about 80mph in 5th is at about 4,000rpm. hope these figures help, let us know when you want to do the next soob project or just hang out. l8ter

swap over the ea82 pitch bar mount. the ea82 battery cable will fit on the starter you can use the ea82 water pump and water pipe, as it will bolt up the pulley will be slightly offset from the crank pulley. the belt will line up to work, as it wont be much more than half the belts width offset. if you use an ea82 alternator bracket and power steering pump, all of the ea82 system will line up, but you can only use one belt, if i recall. suppose you can space the crank pulley with a suitable spacer? the power steering pump will match the car's connections so with this you will have the water pipe fpr the ea82 radiator. an ea81 manifold tstat outlet is in back, use the ea81 upper hose. but an ea82 carb setup will bolt right on, and it will be compatible with the car, and ea82 upper hose will work. and then go to weber if you do if your car is spfi, then the ea81 disty will still work just 2 wires to the coil, leave all the spfi connections hang and tuck them away, if you go back to spfi (*if your car is spfi*) use an ea82 y pipe

the trip to trogg in west virginia yeah the rx is front wheel drive so I guess now it's just a beefed up 3-door right corky? j/k It is running good and has survived a trip to c-bus and back. the drivers front boot is torn no bigger than a fingernail, next to the clamp, and has a small wet spot around it from leaking grease, it will be fixed promptly after the trip to west virginia. rear axle is also sporting a torn inner boot on the drivers side, if the axle were installed it would be on the drivers side. will be taking the rear axles along as a worst case scenario situation where a front axle is broken. I don't see any problems in the near future as long as it is fixed in time for the big road trip to trashwagon five and back. the big trip I would be fine with taking the rx and reliability wouldn't be questioned at all. Although I see your point miles about the headroom issue. I will be letting Zanny Dook take the wheel for some interstate driving and a stick shift crash course. I just hope he don't crash my car. I think he'll do fine though. I will be manning the wheel on the big city and congested areas of interstate travel, but Zanny Dook will be navigating and taking a CRASH COUSRE in out-of-state, insterstate sign reading. However it is all on him to drive the tw5 home safely, and if he misses a sighn he can always watch to see what an RX does, lanecahnges, etc. I will be useiing my blinker and driving in a defensive/cautious fashion for the sake of Zanny DOOK, WE CAN'T AFFORD TO LOSE HIM OR THE TRASHWAGON. will keep everyone posted on progress.

yeah we have the ea82 crossmember bolted up to the car with the ej22 motor bolted to the ea82 ft4wd 5spd. ej22+ea82=ej82! Will definately be an rx killer now, but we will still drag race regularly just for sh!ts-n-giggles. The xt6 rear susp. is in tact in the anus of the wagon. leg anus strutsin the front with xt knuckles, and swaybar and and ea82 strut caps. Five lug all around. it is pimp.

yeah I had 3 100watt floodlights hooked up to a 20 amp toggle switch. I would not recommend useing them for long periods of time but for intermittent use It has been functional for over a year. I too have melted switches as I'm sure a few people have done. The fan circuit wired to my rx is working fine, and it's not like I am gonna turn the fan on and forget it about for an hour. Come common sense, I have a working clutch fan, the auxillary is just that auxillary, it is only used intermittenly like idleing in a traffic jam in the summer, or flogging my ride out in the mud, cornfields, beanfields, and woods. Come on people think, I am no electronics/electricity guneuis but I can wire sh!t up good enough to get by. Worst case scenario the switch melts and pops my fuse then the fan will rely on the stock thermo sensor to kick it on as though there was never a switch there. I dont see my car burning down, or exploding, or killing any body, suff like that happens in hollywood, I was failry on the board but have shyed away because when you try to post or let poeple know what your up to, they either don't take it seriously, or it starts a "who has the biggest shlong war" It's not a competition, we are just trying enlighten people with our own experience, and let them know what we are up to that's all.!!!!!!!!

with my RX and the 16inch big wheels I seemed to get the best fuel econ between 3000 and 3500 rpm on the highway. Since then I have put the stock wheels back on for handling in the snow, even with stock tires it pulls better all around but seems to want to ride between 3200 and 3700 rpm. I seem to be getting about 26-29 mpg on the highway and somewhere around 21-24 in the city. So for best fuel economy I keep it between 3 and 4 thousand rpm, and that is right where the torque is, when you put the gas down it wants to pull rather than bog. This is of course with a carbbed block, turbo top end, 87 octane fuel, stock wheels, and stock full-time-4x4 d/r. I often wonder if lo-range would be better for fuel economy, because there would be less load on the engine, but it would be turning higher rpm to maintain the same speed, it is be more practical to use in the city where you don't get up to high speeds. However I have hit the highway in adverse conditions and maintained about 4500 rpm (75 mph) in lo range for extended periods of time and have had no trouble. You should get a little better economy than me if you have a part time 4x4 tranny, less gears to turn, less load, etc.

not to thread jack but I too must replace my drivers side ball joint on the front of my rx. I makes a clunking sound when I hit bumps. Kinda has a whining at highway speeds but I think it is just because of the phat tires.

actually it was on the bottom of the motor. Took out two bolts and then popped out the t-stat, which was stuck in the closed position, preventing cabin heat. Upon removal we used cardboard to make a new gasket and are runnin noi t-stat. Put it all back together again and added coolant. the engine warmed properly and cabin heat was restored. I appreciate all replys this was successfukl. gracias all.!

I have just recently got a legacy 2.2 awd running again after setting all winter. Replaced the radiator, added coolant, and no heat. Radiator is full, and still no heat. This leads me to believe the t-stat is stuck in the closed position. In order to change is it neccessary to remove the intake manifold? Any body know any tricks or tips on this repair please let me know. new t-stat will be in on thursday. thanks

Well I have about 200 miles on the motor so far and it is running good. Deffinately more torque to go around and the turbo light seldom comes on and when it does it is barely on before going off again. The car pulls great and barely uses the turbo anymore. When I am getting on it tho, thats a whole nuther story, the light comes on and the pulls to no end.

yeah I'm not so sure about the point of being exposed to the blown air, But I must do some mantenance to mine because the heat will work on settings 2,3,or 4 but only after the car has been running for about 15 minutes. If you just jump-nyup init then you would not have any heat for about 15 mins or 10-15 miles, and then out of no-where you just up and have heat.

The technique I have developed is to drain the oil, tighten the drain plug, remove the filter, screw on new one, diconnect the coil wire and crank the car over a couple 3 to 5 times in 5 second bursts. 90% of the priming is done by the time you hokk up the coil wire and run the car. seems to work good for me.

yeah, I not so sure the compression was as affected as miles seems to think tho. If it started out as a 8.5 to 1 before the piston "porting" then I would think it is around 8.25-8.0, but if it srated out as 9.5 to 1 then I would seem to think it's around 9.25-9.0 if It is even affected at all. If it comes down to it and pre-ignition or detonation is a side effect then I could always use some high temp silicone and stack two head gaskets on top of eachother. The added thickness would bring the head farther away from the piston, thus lowering the compression ratio. Semi diesel engines will have different thicknesses for head gaskets as a way of manipulating such high compression in a practical fashion. (e.g. changing pistons etc.) I really don't think it will be that big a deal though. The next part will likely be a boost gauge, and manual boost controller as a pair. l8ter

WJM, Got my back. I appreciate it man thanks. I got the top end put on with ported heads and "ported" pistons what? I hit the pistons with the dremmel and broadened the valve reliefs and the middle of the valve reliefs to make less of a hot-spot. Wjm, do you have to run premium fuel all the time? I will be ready to replace the turbo gaskets tomorrow and hopefully be drivin it around, listenin to the bumps. If it all goes well then I will have to update my signature, and if it all goes to hell, then I will still have to upgrade my signature so I hope it goes good. thanks again WJM, and good luck with any projects you may have aswell. l8ter.

me and Volcom_Don are deffinately interested in the meet and we'll be there as well as any body else who shows

what 9.5 to 1? I thought the carbbed motors were 8.5 to 1. I may have some more posts then if it turns out all outa whack. thanks wjm, I appreciate you calling-me-out, I see it as a "heads-up" kinda so thank you much. will post mor as the project comes along. Slowly But Surely, it's comin along

Got the turbo motor out of the RX and tore it down to a short block. Got the carbbed block torn down as well to a short block and cleaned up. Looks like it came off an assembly line, looks really clean. Got the turbo-side, head is ported, and the non-turbo-side head is in the process of being ported. Picked up the turbo top end set, and a rear seal. Will get the front crank seal, or "timing cover set" as it is stated in the napa book. Will be getting ready to start goin back together. Carbbed/Turbo RX. Will be pimp.l8ter

yeah I like it and will go to it to chat around and see what is happenin.

yeah un huh!!!

yeah I think it will work. If anyone can think of anything to watch out for then please holla at me so I can read it and apply it by the time I do the swap.

yeah those were both good suggestions general dissorder. I have done it with a screw driver in the past, that will find tdc. sometimes sticking oyr finger tip over th spark plug hole will let you know it's on comp. stroke as you feel, compression leaking past your finger. That was how I had done it years ago on my Ponty-shmaaa Gran-dam it. I've heard of people sticking there finger IN the plug hole but I would be afraid of getting it smushed in the piston. lol godd luck gettin it runnin.

My 87 RX has 138,000, just spun a rod bearing. runs knocking with a rod knock. Spare carbbed block goin into RX has 135,000 was running strong (roast 1st gear and prolonged chirp in 2nd)when retired about a year ago. 88 2wd auto, converted to 4wd 5spd. d/r was recently sold to my bro (Volcom_Don) has 200,000 miles on it and runs real strong.