myossfeece

yeah so far we have made good time, and are making steady progress. Despite a few setbacks! One flat front, replaced with spare, to realize it had a broken belt, swapped it with the back tire and replaced it at archemites place, thanks for the tires. we ran out of fuel on the interstate pushing the gauge. rocked the car for another 1.5-2 miles, spittin and sputterin. Miles, Zanny, and I pushed the car for about a 1/4 mile or more. Tim filmed the experience. Cruisin down the interstate in wyoming we lost the last two thirds of the RX exhaust. the pipe ends now under the shifter, turbo's really aren't that lound tho. Upon getting the T.W.5 shortly afterwords we were pulled over (Zanny d. Tim H. in the RX). The Police approached the tw(Miles and I) and asked why we were stopped too. We explained the road trip and the circumstances of two cars. I was DRIVING trashwagon5, and was also the only one of the four of us who was searched. No citations issued. Ran out of gas in the trashwagon a couple two times. The gauge was the issue. Finally we changed a t.w. tire, for safe measures. We hit up chef tim twice, he has the subaru hook up while pimpin a PHAT Hatch. He was really a cool check point. Archemities was da bomb hooking it up on parts, as well as a needed "checkpoint". The trips seem more fun when your not going strait through non-stop. e.g.(fuel,RestRooms) we are currently at eyesore's crib, resting up. We should be home thursday/friday evening/morning. We have covered 4300mile so far, in a RX 2wd diff lock, 3 four-lugz, and one 14in. five-lug on the drivers side rear. I have the rear axles in the smugglers box, to preserve the LSD. Only about another 700 mile to go. We are so close we can taste it. and Oh yeah, I just installed a vacuum guage, on the turbo. Since the stock boost light is always stuck on, it kinda acts as a reverse boost gauge, showing fuel economy/throttle position. Well keep you posted.

look under the tranny tunnel, there is a little mount that holds the shifter up, it fixes to a stud with a 12mm nut. maybe the shifter dropped out of the mount, and it sits low enough that 2nd wont have enough room to throw

what up earl? Autozone is weak!!! Ask ole jim wood!! N E Ways you will want the 27 spline clutch disk. Get the biggeest one avaliable and it will be the right one.

when I bought my 88 sedan it was 2wd auto and redline was at 6,000 rpm. Once I swapped trannys I also swapped the gauges from a wagon into the sedan and it had a redline of 6,500 rpm. My 87 RX has a redline of 6,500. Maybe the difference is between the auto and the stick tranny. I don't know about the pre 86 as I have yet to own one

the cam covers I spoke of are on the side(s) of the motor. they are the valve covers that say subaru on either side of the block. you can get cam cover seals and grommets in a kit for something like 20 bones. they are at napa. Yes the oil pump shaft seal is a good one to replace. If you were to go as far as pulling the oil pump off the motor there would be three seals to replace. the mickey mouse seal, the "o" ring seal, and the pulley seal. it probably isn't neccessary to replace all of them but with 160k it would suck to get it all together just to have an oil seal failure. it would aslo be a good idea to service the cam seals and the front crank seal, just to get it done and out the way. if you are already gonna have the motor that far apart, have you ever thought of running open t-belt covers? I am running open covers and have about 10,000 miles on open belts and have had no trouble. if you were to run open covers the only piece I would install is the inner cover between the water pump and the alterator, because that is the only spot the belt would be exposed to debri. it will turn a two hour timing belt job into 20 min on the side of the road. right after mine was done it broke a belt but it was improperly tensioned on the motor it came off of, and then I put the RX belts back on it on the side of the road and have gone 10k trouble free. sorry if I got off subject on ya but none the less good luck.

wow!!! nice pic of the turbo loyale OZified. I didn't even know if they made em or not but I guess no I know.

I would say you are correct in the gasket causing low oil pressure. I bet when you rev the car up the oil gauge goes up and when you let off the gas the gauge falls to zero. not holding pressure. make sure it is not the cam cover leaking oil, as it could easily be mistaken for something else. My rx had a leak and I thought for sure it was coming from the turbo, turns out it was the back side of the cam cover. If you are certain it is the head gasket then it wouldn't be a waste of time to replace it at all. Under normal circumstances I would say don't worry about resufacing the head just use a razor to get all the old gasket off. I don't think that blow-by is the source of the problem at all. 160k on the stock head gaskets, probably just weakened and finally went. Don't know of any laymans warpage test either. keep an eye out for a crack in the head between the valves, as this is normal. The ones you have to watch for are the ones that go into the exhaust port as they may billay out and start leaking coolant into the exhaust. It sounds to me like you pretty much know what to expect though so good luck with it

yes jim it fits. come out to your garage and look at your new xt heater core in your sedan.

No I havent tryed any electric superchargers or anything but I have thought of how to make one from a leaf blower. lol

just a guess but 89's and up? My 87 RX has a gen2 head and a gen 3 head on it and it was like that since I had the car. That's how I can tell that the previous owner has put a little money in it. I don't think they made any turbo loyales, but they made the xt till 94 i believe.

my four door had three 100 watt floodlights mounted to the roof rack. I pointed those strait ahead pointed just higher than the low beams, about same as the high beams. I could see like 1.5-2 miles away on a clear night, but in any rain, snow, or fog I was restricted to low beam headlights. If they will be needed in adverse weather I would recomend mounting them on the bumper and keep em pointed low, around the lowbeams. As far as alley light I also had two of those mounted sideways on the roof rack so the driver could look out either of the front windows and see the ditches, (stumps and logs when baja'n) and animals very well. This was the 2wd auto to 4wd 5spd. d/r conversion, and I was left without reverse lights so I monted two fog lights on the anus of the car to a toggle switch and I will tell you they were the most commonly used lights. Somebody gets up on your anus with there bright on don't get mad, hit em with the reverse lights at highway speeds, and slow down. As they pass you then hit them again with the alley lights, and finally as they merge in front of you, you could always hit them with the floodlights. I was never that mean tho. The worst I had ever done was to a Ford f-something or other with bright on me. He learned quick about the reverse and alley lights.

ZANNY DOOK How you gonna go behind my back like that? You know I want the trashwagon to make classwagon. well he does owe you a soob. Alright you can have the trashwagon. DAMMIT!!!!!!!!

you can always take out the old pcv valve and shake it, if it rattles it is still good. But for as cheap as they typically are it would be nothin to replace.

hey calebz miles fox originally posted as me but I was there with him and we both said NOOO it is 25 deg btdc. But you were correct in your call. I wasn't aware of that and in a effort to prove you wrong I went out to jims garage and peeped his 88 full time turbo wagon and then in disbelief I went over to an 87 rx and proved myself wrong it is in fact 20 deg. btdc +/- 2 deg. Good call, hey you learn somethin new every day!!

8mm wires, i got accel 8.8mm wires for like 15 dollars or something like that.

i am here at jim woods house and we just got done working on the oil pump, pulley seal, and some timing adjustments, and a dual row radiator in his wagon. Upon completion the wagon was real low to the ground on the drivers-side front wheel. It has the stock heght adjustable air suspension and it worked good, and held pressure overnight. Now all of a sudden just that wheel won't hold pressure for more than ten minutes with the car off. It worked fine before and untill now has always held pressure. Are these things known to go out on a wimb like that? I have double checked everything related and cannot find the source of the leak. when the car is running it will stay level all day but leaks when turned off. any ideas or info would be greatly appreciated.

the headlight circuit grounds through the switch so if it's messed up that is probably why. As far as the toggle switch goes I am all for that idea! put a volt meter on the back of the headlight switch with the lights on in low and high beams and that should give you some idea of what wire(s) to use for accessory. you can use the battery for power but you will have to manualy shut off the lights every time they are turned on. I would suggest useing something from the fuse panel (stock fuse for headlight), which will let the lights be on only in the run position. Or use the radio or some other accessory fuse which will let the lights be on in the run or acc. position, but will go off with the key regardless of the switch position. It will help preserve your battery on those drunken nights when you forgot to turn them off. j/k keep us posted

I don't know exactly but you'll probably have make some taller motor mounts or cut the crossmember out a bit to clear the turbo crosspipe. As far as any clearance issues, it will be the back of the motor on the cam covers, but that would go along with the idea of the taller motor mounts. I cannot speculate on whether or not the turbo would clear the fire wall, but I bet it would fit. Good luck with it

ol' crazyboy died and went away. too bad he didnt live out to see he had no point all along

NOOOOOOOO!!!!! its 25 twenty-five degreees for TURBO spfi ois 20 deg:o

YOSH! trashwagon will be on its way in 2 weeks. so you coming or what? stay up on the board, got my back

if I am not mistaken it is on the frontmost (driveshaft) side if the diff and you can unbolt it from the diff itself and swap a junkyard part in. There are four nuts that hold it in place on the diff.

yeah I had the same set up on my four-door with the wires, coil, and plugs. It had made a noticeable improvement in throttle response and fuel economy wasn't really affected by the power increase. I also gave jim wood a hand with two of his soobs and the accel set up. He had the same wires I had(not brand, but style) the ones you cut to length and put the boots and the end of the wire together. Jim also noticed an increase in the throttle area of his rides.

if you can't find one of the D/R 4spd tranny's like CL craig is talking about then maybe you could consider a small lift to help out the clearance issues. 2 in lift all around or something like a 2in lift in the front and a 3in in the anus to keep the "Subaru stink-bug stance!" as I refer to it as. I personaly havent done the same swap, but am in the middle of an ea81 crossmember with a small lift in a gen 1 brat but haven't done any thing on it lately. (Lending Ro-neece a hand) Good luck with the mods and keep em comin

yeah if miles goes to jail and I am in a situation to where I can't wait for him to get out then he already knows that his car is coming with me, so regardless of his person, his car will be safe at home waiting for him to come and get it. oh yeah Miles if you get locked this time, you know I will claim on the trash wagon and make it a myoss feece "classwagon" As you know I haven't had a wagon yet and can't wait to get one tho j/k. Zanny Dook chewbacca, good to see ya on the board, will deffinately holla you boys later.