myossfeece

The snorkel is pimp. Baja'n is so much fun

The reason it runs off the second t to the air cleaner is to provide ventilation through out the motor. Positive Crankcase Ventilation, =PCV. I'm sure you can run it to a t and bypass the part that goes to the air cleaner, but I honestly don't knoiw what effects (good or bad) it will have on the motor. You don't know till you try. good luck

It's possible that you may have popped a couple of fuses. check them out as well

yeah it's lookin good miles. what about the term "wot" I've seen it used a few times and my presumption is that it means "Warm Operating Temp" but ot sure. later

gET YOUR GL-10 TUNED UP/ TUNED IN and call it the RX-killer that carries family around

Yeah that was a clean motor. as for the carb icing, don't they usually exhaust heat to keep it from icing, EGR?

GeneralDisorder has the right idea, I to would suggest looking for a vacuum leak.

I guess I wasn't much help in the 4wd problem, but never-the-less, good luck with the axles, and good luck with the 4wd. I hope you get er fixed in time to drive around in 4x4 in the snow. Snow is the funnest.

good luck with it. hope it doesn't give you to much trouble. I know how much of a pain in the "A" an uncooperative subaru can be. Especially with snow fall coming soon.

the time it takes to pull the radiator, it would save you that time not having to work on it. it ca be pulled with the clutch fan still on, if the electric fan is off already. i highly recomment taking the clutch fan out first, then radiator. might as well over haul the motor, pull it out and do the front seals, then the rear seal and clutch/front trans seal. it would make a good time to de-gunk, put all new hoses on when going back in. its not hard t opull a motor, it can be done with a come-along tied up to a rafter. pulling it out now, will afford you the options of servicing other stuff as well i like to pull a motor if i'm getting into seals and timing belts timing belt alone i would do with motor in-car and with the radiator out.

DL-10?

My RX has occaisionally spun only the front wheel in wet pavement or slick mud, but if you can get the frontwheels to grip and still break em loose with the diff unlocked it handles like a positrack reardrive. really alot of fun once you get the hang of it. I think the newer than ea series awd uses a limited slip center differential. the wheel sensors are probably for the abs if equipped.

No Dis-Respect. I didn't mean to imply that you know it all or anything I was just saying Throughout the board, people have had problems and what-not they know what's up with there cars but don't seem to want to reply. Then I said I'm sure not a know-it-all, but I will help with kowledge, experience, tips etc. etc.. Good Luck with it.

try to run wires, one off the little tab in the back of the starter, and the other off the positive to the starter, and hook them up to a push button. maybe that will solve the problem.

Try loosening the three bolts on the trailing arm and pulling it out and re tightening the bolts or slot the holes to make room for adjustment. Maybe put washers on it or somthing of that effect. Keep an eye open for your rear wheel bearings, when mine failed it was toe in out neg. and pos. camber. basicaly the direction traveled affected wheel (turning left, right, etc.)

in the case of an automatic a clutch-pack engages the four wheel drive. If I'm not mistaken it's allowed to slip a little bit at low speeds, or low rpm. one or the other. I'm not sure but I beleive the 4wd button electricly operates a solenioid that uses vacuum to engage the center diff or to let it slip a bit at low speed/rpm? Check for a vacuum line that runs near the pitch bar back to the tranny, not sure if this would solve the problem but this is a message board and appears as though everyone is avoiding the q. I don't know it all but will help whenever possible.

When I did my ea81 to ea82 swap I installed the motor with the disty uninstalled and had to push on the break master-cylinder to get it in but other than that there was no trouble with it. Oh yeah the conversion was on an 81' gl-f (dl-10)

When I swapped t- stats in the RX I had drilled two 1/16 in holes in the top of it and have had no trouble since. but then again it opens at 160 whereas the stock t-stat opened at 185. Good Luck

you paid 150.00 for the car? hell no you mean you stole it for 150.00. Nince score on a soob

Whoah! Bumped it. Ooops!

I'm not sure about a pin, I thought it was more of a gear myself. When in fwd the center diff is unlocked, engaging 4wd locks the center diff and sends power to the rear diff through the center diff making the rear wheel(s) spin at the same rate as the front wheel(s). check out the center diff, and if it's dual range, be sure it's not in nuetral between hi and lo-range. what transmission do you have? It may be a pin, but not sure. Good Luck

yes, sounds like it looks pimp. that's really cool can't wait to see the pics. maybe you should put a turbo in it and call it the "RX Killer."

whoah! it's all good

We just had our first snow as well. It was kinda lame but covered the raods for a day or so. I had fun with the 87rx limited-slip- rear diff. the car is kinda tricky to drive, sometimes the lsd wants to push the car around causing understeer. Once you get to the point you can anticipate the car reaction, Tiss much fun to drive. I hope we have a good winter(lots-o-snow) where the plows can't keep up. Thats when I be having the most fun

I need to get around to changin mine as well. Once I start my 87RX I must wait for about ten -to- fifteen minutes before the blower will up and come on. Only takes about five for the car to warm up but I must wait for 10 to 15 mins. Even then when it comes on speeds 2 through 4 work fine but the lowest setting(1) is off.