Durania

Im a sucker for gold wheels, I think that would look good.

Dave was referring to the simplicity of replacing the driveline than that of doing body work and I agree with him completely.

Thats kind of crudy that people do that kind of thing when you fix one of their problems. Still, that is a hell of a buy.

I looked at a Brat once that was like that, it had 50,000 miles on it and i thought it was a good idea, but when I sat in it I felt the car bend in the middle. Plus it had a big rusted hole behind the passenger seat.

I will definetely want to see the pictures of that conversion when you get it done. As lite as the hathbacks are, you should have a hell of a power to weight ratio.

Winter in Tennessee is anything but predictable. On new years day it was warm enough to drive around with the windows open in the old hatch. Then the next week we will have sub-freezing temperatures. I really wish Mother Nature would get up off her @ss for once and do something consistent with the currrent season. None of this warm one week and colder than crap the next, makes my sinuses want to commit seppuku.

Why is a MSD igniton illegal there?

Wish I had a Brat

I just decided to relay the information based on my own first-hand experience. I have heard good things about the other kind also. I just went with it becuase alot of people on my tacoma forum had luck with it also. Made my check engine light go off.

Here is the link that taught me how to clean the MAF on my tacoma. http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/tacoma_4runner_30k/maintenancep5.html It shows the kind of cleaner to use, even though its for a Toyota I am sure that any information pretaining to to a dirty MAF would be considered universal.

Gotta love the sound of a high revving horizontally opposed engine.

This is from my first hand experience but when it comes to dirty MAFs the best thing to use is CRC automotive electronic cleaner. It can be got at autozone for about five dollars. Its what I used when I had a dirty MAF from non-disposable air filters, the oil that comes on them collects on the mass air flow.

My hatch would backfire like a damn cannon everytime I shifted. So whenever I drove through town I was pretty much guaranteed to get pulled over because someone would call 911 with a "shots-fired" call (My dad is po-lice). On a good night you could look in the rear-view mirror and see a good flash of light coming from the tailpipe. My girlfriend hated the car from the first time she rode in it to the last trip we took. It was great for scaring wild life too. Driving home from work one night I decided to scare the security guard at a small gated community close to my house so I revved it out and left off the gas and has a moderatly loud explosion. All of a sudden two deer shoot out in front of me and go tumbling down the side of the road scaring the literal intestinal waste out of me. Everytime I would get pulled over an older policeman would tell me how they use to own a brat and would always end up having a good conversation. One even owned a EA-81T which I thought was super cool.

I have never heard of an idle adjust on a fuel injected car. On my tacoma and EJ22 legacy there is a sticker underneath the hood that says:"Computer controlled and non-adjustable".

Least I know that I am not the only one confused.

Im pretty sure I follow you. So you have an electrical current running to your back wheel? Wouldn't the tire act as a ground though? Im still kinda confused.

I agree its certainly better than nothing. Just get you some of those brat decals and you will be set.

Anything pretaining to MOPAR will smoke.

Was you pantless when you took the pictures?

This stuff is too great to make it up.

Is that a cheese grater on the roof of your hatch Tim?

Least our Horizontal motors can last past 100,000 miles.

Whats the total number of money invested so far?

Looks good next to the WRX. I am considering purcashing one here myself.

Im all about the polished lip look