Durania

Greetings from Crossville. (To your East) There is an independent Subaru shop in Clinton, TN if you are interested.

Sorry, thats usually where I go for very specific RS questions. Let us know what you find out.

Do some searching here: http://www.rs25.com

Or borrow a friend for 30 minutes and have him get inside the car and pump clutch pedal to help you bleed the system.

Way to bump a six year old thread.

I order from them as well but my only beef is the minimum $7.00 shipping charge. I recently ordered a shifter joint and a blank key (separately) and had to pay the charge for a part that weights only a few ounces.

Looking good.

Yeah, call the dealer and get you a slave cylinder for your car, then bleed the system once installed. I think its like a $60-$80 part. Its best to have someone with you when bleeding the slave cylinder.

What year and model is the car for starts? Sounds to me like text book slave cylinder failure. (Of course that depends on your MY)

Kinda had to assume it was a legacy since it was said to be a 91, or a misplaced Loyale or XT6.

I had a bad MAF cause some of the symptoms that you are mentioning. Any check engine lights?

Correct, these wheels are 5x114.3.

You able to call any of these listed here? http://maps.google.com/maps?q=staunton%20virginia%20subaru&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wl

Buy the RHD one if you are buying it to beat on it in the woods, leave the rust free one alone.

Call your dealer. I ordered one for my BRAT and it was like 3 or 4 dollars.

I remember seeing it on CL years ago in NC, dude wanted way too much for it then. Thats some pretty bad body rot so you really need to think long and hard about how long this thing will last you.

Coolant temperature sensor does sound like a good place to start.

That body style wagon in the white spoke wheels looks gorgeous.

Good point. Are you referring to the two tabs with grooves that slide into the roof?

Dude, it's a .50 cent part.

The only issue I had with my brat leaking was the bottom of the windshield corners allowing water to pool up and run inside down the inside rocker cover and pool in the floor board.

Phase II's shouldnt be going through them that fast. From what I know, the I's were the ones that developed the internal leaks that blew a lot. The II's on the other hand, developed external leaks but once replaced were good to go. My Subaru mechanic told me that the problem is people put them on way too tight.

EJ33?

Looks great, I had an '83 Cosmic Blue BRAT myself.