jono

I had a feeling ski shop may have been confused with mineral and motor oil. The latter not really suitable for extreme pressure or gears. Mind you, what did the old minis run in their engines with gearbox bathing in the engine sump? I also once tried engine oil in a gearbox as it was a dealer suggested option for cold climate. Box is still about 33 years later

Made it to wind the front axle seal carrier's

Yeah finger healed. That was thirty years ago! I should sell you my e-dizzy already brazed up if I can find it

mate, you canna just screw a stopper in the side. Might just sieze up. If you were good maybe drill and tap an M2 eye glass screw thread in each end and had a pluggable hole in the side of the dizzy to access the adjuster screw, but you'd need Swiss blood in you to do that! I bought a spare dizzy today to do just this job - in case I stuff things up, and can take my time. I know how difficult it is rebuilding carburettor with one badly cut finger wrapped up. Needed to finish carb to drive self to surgery and nearly pass out as was modifying stuff on carby when hacksaw V;s Finger happened

PCV or EGR deleted? all these acronyms !

Sure does, they aint such tiny pics either. I can only get thumbnails up. May need to investigate tiny pics one day That bush be hard enough to drill a lube hole into, screw in a grease nipple on the back side and easy to keep the maintenance up to it Think one pic turned the lens around on you

?? Think we got here by using mineral oil, so long as it is correct application. I'm sure it was 80W90 and a mineral oil I have been using for decades in gearboxes and diffs. Unless that long lasting stench of gear oil indicates it is synthetic?

G70 is Australian secret...ssshhhh

Cost total in oz dollars?

Coolant to suit car satisfies their warranty needs. Rich, try brazing up a mm or so of outer slot end of advance weights. Did it once with my ea81

claim to be the manufacturer not just an on seller. 3 year warranty. I am gonna ask them what their coolant mix recommendation is not to void warranty. Be nice if my fans still fit between it and my EA82

Good thinking 99 ! Add on a V8 heavy duty trans cooler up front if it works, for summer If its anything like the 160 dollar alloy unit i got - 30% more cooling they claimed ...first, get rid of their cap and replace it with a local market recovery style. Keep your purchase detail of who you bought from, who the sellers name was on email receipt from ebay/paypal, your purchase date, warranty details and how you paid. Mine started to weep before a year was up. After 18 months I should have just got another as i developed buttermilk in the catch can, no oil in water, no water in oil but rad level started to decline. Engine needs tear down after 120,000km

.maybe a photo to come....'they' split the box and left the guts suspended by two bolts. Great to work on and around. While fitted up I will measure up for a support to add to the end just in case its all too much load on two bolts

18.1 ft lbs plus or minus 1.4

Got one made up to fit with original shim

Emphasis on the word effort ? I think they were all done when this box was assembled 40 k km ago in Andrew Penny's workshop...still grease inside front stub seals. It is clean as a whistle inside. It now has 23 spines to suit my Brumby

I found my original 84 Brumby radiator was about 40 mm longer than my 84 fwd sedans original auto. So satisfied there were some factory differences

for the record, those eight of socket head bolts that hold the centre diff together 18.1 =/- 1.4 ft/lbs torque - found it in the description section rather than diagrams - these manuals tend to hide some gems like this. Got my 20 thou (0.5mm shim washer to stuff in , in addition to original just gotta get new tube of threebond. Was thinking new input seal for good measure but think needs dissembly of bits I would rather not ....not as easy as the std awd/fwd casings now this thing is dual range hybrid. Glad I found 37 teeth on crown wheel

Holy schmoly ! Did you fit that centre diff! The specs are 0.4 to 0.6 mm freeplay in the 87 FSM I think I measured my first with feeler gauges. The second most recently with a dial gauge and got 0.93 , but want to do two posts on the dial gauge support instead of one to ensure I am not getting any flex from the post. I found a diff bloke who says he can make up either a new shim to suit or one to add as a packer for existing one that is about 1.6mm already. The maximum shim available was 2.05mm , none are available from Subaru anymore Thanks for the such detailed pics Bennie I only took the bevel gear and washer in to show the diff guy. Said it looked like new, but says need to see more to ask why we have the sacrificial stuff about.

You said you removed the air intake manifold. This is the alloy componentthat bolts to the head each side. T od this would mean you have eliminated the whole air fuel mixing devices and expose the intake ports of the heads and coolant pasages right next to them. Maybe you removed intake air filter or air ducting You must have some identification on the air intake pieces? single point fuel injection not a carburettor?

I have gone through all the part numbers for the centre diff bevel washer s to find all are obsolete. I have a bit more than max 0.6 free play ...like 0.93 mm What have others done for these needs? I am going to try local Subaru supply for the 2.0 mm shim washer They'd need to be a custom make from right material by someone who knows what they are doing. Maybe sintered bronze?

I have FSM for the 87 US awd single range XT turbo 5MT and nowhere can I find the torque setting for #16 hexagon socket head bolts of which there are 8 of 8 mm hex fits. Must be M8. Not got them at my side. Anyone know their torque please?

I send filler necks to the UK for their rustoration projects. Wagon filler necks have not been rejected. I was told there is only two part numbers for these necks. Leaded with bigger hole and unleaded have smaller hole inside at top. We went unleaded mid 85. UK guys then get them cleaned up, zinc coated,painted then wax protected

10A 12A or 13A wide belt in use?

Same brand belt each time? Can you take issue up with supplier? That crank pulley you may find looms like twin belt drive but is actually likely what I have - three! One smaller in the middle so PS and ac can be driven as well as alt and wp. A bar of dry hand soap held carefully against both sides of belt can give temporary noise relief. I like to be able to get half belt depth defection when finger push on longest stretch so not to strain wp or alt bearings