Manarius

Replace all 4 at a time. There's no question to this. The AWD system doesn't like even having one tire out of range of the others, let alone 2.

Cam/Crank Position sensors....MAYBE the ignition switch, but since it's starting I doubt that.

There may have been something wrong with your system. My 1991 Legacy goes through snow deeper than 6 inches without any problems as long as I drive like I'm driving a car in snow.

The screw doesn't adjust the idle - it just adjust how low the throttle is allowed to go. Say for example that the throttle's position range at stock is 0 - 100%. With the screw, you could just the throttle position range to 5 - 100% therefore effectively "raising" the idle - but all the ECU sees is that somebody is pushing on the gas pedal a little.

I just went out and examined my bulbs. All the brake light ones are dual filament. Guess I just wasn't paying attention the last time I looked at them (which was a long time ago).

Interesting to know, Nipper. I thought I pulled out a bulb and saw only one filament. Guess I was mistaken.

Problem with that though is that the 90-94 Wagons have a two bulb system for the brake light - both of which come on with the parking lights are on. Pushing the brakes just makes them brighter.

Looks like a post-facelift (92-94) Legacy. I would think that almost all the parts interchange - just like the JDM parts swap to the USDM cars.

Knock sensor. My friend's 97 L was gutless until about 4 grand with a busted knock sensor.

Short in the parking light switch on the steering wheel? There's a short somewhere in the system...

Since the Baja engine is like every other Subaru engine, I don't know why you would have to lift the engine to get at the spark plugs. It might take some creative wrenching and removing some intake pieces, but nothing more.

Uhh....Torque Bind is the most common one I think for the Auto's. It's really not that bad if you just drive correctly. For the manuals and auto's, wheel bearings tend to be an annoyance as well.

I thought the EJ22 was just the EJ22. Aside from a "phase 1.5" and "phase 2", I thought they were all pretty much the same.

Find out if the HG's have been replaced before and if they haven't - do it yourself now.

By all means, use a torque wrench if you must. I've spent enough time under the hood to know when something's too tight or too loose. I only use a torque wrench on important stuff like head bolts. The knock sensor is not an overly sophisticated piece of equipment and not having it torqued down to exactly 17.2 lbs/ft of torque isn't going to kill it.

The car is out of its warranty period. End of discussion. Subaru guaranteed your car for 3 years or 36,000 miles, which was passed a long time ago. I sympathize with your problem, but you have no case.

Just tighten it down far enough that it won't fly off and isn't cracked. This isn't rocket science we're talking here.

Read posts on http://bbs.legacycentral.org. There are A LOT of threads on the subject.

If you have any questions, let me know. I did it on both my back doors - works like a charm.

Wires are wires, so it doesn't really matter.

http://www.geocities.com/hobiegary/locks.html Easy Repair.

I just wanted to clear that up - I've seen a lot of people complain about axles causing vibration at stop. My car had the same vibration at stop in Drive when the original axles were on it (with good joints). The AWD system and drivetrain when stopped is still getting force from the engine (it's like trying to hold a car back while giving it gas - something has to vibrate).

That weird vibration is transmission and drivetrain stress - not bad axles.

Used would be all right - but be weary of the boots.

Air suspension bad. Replace it with regular stuff. It should be an easy swap - $500 or less.