Manarius

Transmission, wheel bearings, leather worn out... Read this: http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/19523.doc

Wheel bearing go poof?

Or it could be that you didn't get all the suspension pieces tight after you put the new CV on. I'd check that before you suspect any of your new parts.

I can do axles for 60 US an axle and 60 an hour for labor.

Because once the boot breaks, that gives the joint a chance to get dirt in it and once there's dirt in it, putting a new boot on isn't going to fix that. I wouldn't even bother with the garbage bag. Just drive it like it is. But, for $60 Canadian, you could probably have a remanufactured axle with a lifetime warranty and no need to worry about axles again.

They're hard to find on ebay - trust me, I tried.

Not a good idea to dump the clutch on an AWD car.

I drove with an inner boot torn for like 10k+ miles (I didn't know the boot was torn). It never clicked and never made a noise. I doubt the axle is going to grenade after 4 days...especially an inner boot.

My comment was more directed at subyluvr2212. I was just adding to yours subyluvr2212 is right that the EJ257 can do almost everything better than the EJ22T can, but it needs a lot of modification to do so.

The EJ257 isn't 100% closed block - that's why it doesn't win compared to the EJ22T...

The EG33 is a good engine too....

The screw on top of the headlamp housing. It's a Philips head screw.

That's what I thought too.

Don't suck at stick when you're driving AWD. I tried it today - it's not forgiving like a 2WD car. The 2WD Lancer I drove was rather forgiving when it comes to shifting - the Turbo Legacy I was driving was not. It lurched bad when I put the clutch in and out at the wrong time.

Sounds like the switch for the shift interlock system is shot. Unfortunately, I don't know of anyone that's had to replace it so I don't know the method for doing so.

I unplugged the plug under my rear seat to undo the fuel pump. Then I started the car and ran it for a second until it died. Then I just pulled the tube with some needle nose pliers and the fuel filter was out and in within 10 minutes.

Good source of that part: Junkyard.

You're still going to get 50-50 split just like the old 4WD cars. Add in a set of snow tires and good driving skills and I think you'll get just as far, if not farther than you would have in your Loyale. I've taken my Legacy in snow that reached almost all the way up to the bottom of the bumper and it just kept going without a hitch. The keys though, like I said before, are knowing how to drive in snow and having good snow tires. I don't really drive that well in snow (I'm a pedal-happy teenager, what can I say), but I can manage. A seasoned driver with temper can easily do better than I can. Some outbacks also have rear VLSD's which can help a lot too.

It might be illegal where you live - he lives in the Netherlands so it might be different there. I would agree that you'd need some relays and heavier gauge wiring to make sure you don't melt the connectors.

Air suspension on Legacys = bad. There's a reason so few of them were made and even fewer of them have survived the past 10+ years of abuse. I wouldn't trust it to go two feet let alone through rocks and mud.

1. No. 400lb is just two people in the backseat to your Legacy. I've towed 600+ without any problems. Will it damage your tranny? No. I did it with a first gen 4EAT - not even a AT Temp light. 2. That's plenty. That's what I had on my car. 3. Yeah, it's safer, but if you're not going to tow more than 1000 lb, I don't think it's worth it.

Oh. Somehow that hole looks like it's in the shortblock. Maybe I just saw something wrong...

Looks like the knock sensor hole to me! ::EDIT:: Yes, it looks like the knock sensor hole from where I can see the throttle cables.

Interference: Yes. Is it worth that much? No. 2000-2500 at best. It's a 10 year old car with 100+k on it. It may also be the Brighton and that means it needs to have a low price. They're good cars, just check for the usual.

FWIW, the only things the ECU compensates for are headlamps and A/C. My point is that at idle, the voltage is going to be low. Stop asking for 14 volts at idle - it isn't going to happen. The charging system requires the car to be at RPM's higher than idle to charge correctly. When you start draining batteries in normal everyday driving, then you need to take a look at your charging system.