Manarius

I don't think that's a good idea. If the plug shatters and you get pieces on the piston head, I think that would make for a bad day.

I just know that on the 1990-1994 Legacies, the speedo is off by about 10% on standard size wheels and tires. I don't know why that is, but it just is. I figure it's something to do with the speedo setup and gear in the 4EAT.

Yes, they key part is that you get the same "type" of clutch (push or pull). If the clutch is of the correct type, as long as it fits any EJ series engine, it will fit your car.

The Speedo is off by about 10% by nature of of the speedo setup. I don't know how to account for the other 5-10%.

Maybe it's an axle or scraping dust shield. Squealing is certainly not what I would call a wheel bearing dying.

It only fits in RHD vehicles, so the 90-94 Legacy would have to be EDM or JDM or a mail wagon.

More reasons why people should not street race!

Having a locking system like in the 97 and newer cars makes for extremely easy install of a wireless entry system.

Well. There's actually the knock sensor, the cam sensor, and the crank position sensor. They're three different sensors.

I think you're going to have one heck of a time trying to pull a popup camper with a 1997 Legacy L. They're heavy things - at least half the weight of the car.

MAF? When my car's was broken, it ran all right when cold - at first. As it got worse, it starting driving and bogging all to hell no matter what the temperature.

I think I'd argue that the Achilles' heel in the EJ22 is the lean-ness of cylinder #4.

No. The AWD unit gets injured when tires roll at different speed.

I always run whatever the max is on the sidewall of the tire. From what I've read, what's in the door sill is for a comfy ride - not one best for your tires.

Nah. SVX owners are old because only retirees can afford to repair them! :-p

All right. I understand that. My dad told me a story once where he put a rather free flowing exhaust on his 1970's model Toyota and it burnt the exhaust valves on it. I was not aware that FI engines didn't behave in the same fashion. http://www.proficientperformance.com/tech_back_pressure.php

So, I think, in short, unless you swapped to a more restrictive exhaust, your muffler is not the problem. And, I think I'd argue that putting a 4-inch pipe from your NA engine would be a bad idea. NA engines need some sort of back pressure or else it burns exhaust valves.

They don't do it much around here unless it's like a driver who takes pride in their car being a Subaru.

The painted window frames are ugly on that color. You need the black/silver two-tone to keep the car aggressive.

And I'm saying that it's extremely common that new from Subaru SVX bearings do NOT come with the correct grease. http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/How-To/28201.pdf

It's also crucial to make sure that you pack the bearings with the correct kind of grease. SVX bearings come with packing grease, not bearing grease, and this has caused a lot of problems for them. I would just make sure that other Subaru bearings don't come like that.

PA's gas has MTBE still.

Does it do damage? Depend who you ask. The FWD fuse is described in the manual as a troubleshooting tool only. The SVX does have one though.

I think checking a known good knock sensor will really help you out.

I still think Seafoam through the PCV and gas will work best. Then you can use throttle body cleaner if you want (don't wipe it out, it's probably just ether anyways). I did notice a small bit of overall smoothness increase when I ran Seafoam through the PCV valve last year. My car's 16 years old, I don't expect it to idle extremely smooth. At the same time, I would notice if it was idling abnormally. My car doesn't shake at all when it idles, even though it idles (when warm) sub-500rpm.