Manarius

Uh. No. The ECU turned up the idle to compensate for the increased load on the engine based on the AC. Not to get the voltage up Have you load tested the alternator like people have said to many times on this thread? Until you've done that, stop spitting out multimeter readings because they don't have anything to do with anything. The voltage is going to be low at idle because the engine's running slower. That's why when you're at idle, you're running on slightly batteries to make up for some of the lost voltage! The accessories just make the car dig deeper into the battery charge.

If you're sitting at idle, that should be plenty. Did you replace the alternator because it failed a load test or just because you felt like it? You may be asking for blood from a turnip here...

15.9 gallons is almost exactly 60 liters, which is why Subaru uses that size on almost all their vehicles.

The gas gauges on these cars are notoriously inaccurate. Only thing I'd trust is the low fuel light.

I don't see why not. There are no signs saying that the belt is going to go soon so I don't think 800 miles of highway driving is going to kill it anymore than 800 miles of typical driving would do.

subyluvr2212 works at a Subaru Dealership, he would know

Nipper, don't forget that the SVX Engine (EG33 - H6) was totally DOHC with a timing belt. I don't understand why they won't bring that engine back - it could be retuned with today's standards and make a good bit of HP.[/offtopic] I don't think any Subaru past 2002 is going to have the same HG issues that the 2.5 from 1997 - 2002 has suffered. Subaru is smarter than that.

Dragging dust shield? Wheel bearings? I've got 158k on the clock and my rotors aren't warped (and they're the stock ones too).

Checked the MAF against a known good MAF? How about an O2 or knock sensor check?

Would you be willing to drive to Philly? There's a guy there who does a lot of work on SVX's and is very good at it.

How about we go and have the alternator tested and then report back instead of continuing to guess when the clear identifier will be when the alternator gets load tested.

That is obscene. What a wheeler though...

Sounds to me like there's a blockage in the system. Especially if the bottom pipe is cool....

I couldn't remember it the headlamps and grille changed shape or just design in 98.

1. Rarely do the underbodies on these cars rust. It's the sheetmetal that rusts so easily. 2. 93-2001 fit...I think. Could try to pick up the hood from a 2.5RS. 3. Yeah. The bushings go within a 100k or so...

Get the alternator load tested. If it fails, replace it and call it a day. If it doesn't, there's something else wrong. Maybe you need to replace stock wires running from the alternator to the battery with some heavy duty ones.

He said he wanted to do a swap. I just said keep the EJ22T. It's more than capable....

That's true. Assuming it had a slow leak, that's completely possible.

You can do the EJ20T. It's been done before and it's an easy swap. The engines are fairly similar and there are a lot more mods for it because that was the engine that came in the first USDM WRX's.

The compressor not going on says something electrical to me. If the clutch isn't engaging to make the compressor catch, I wonder if the fuse/relay to it is blown?

The 1995-1997ish years are known for melting the headlamp connectors. I think a good thing to add would be a grounding kit. This helps with the flow of current around the car and can keep those headlamp connectors from getting too hot.

No. The second turbo hits the steering mechanism. I'm telling you right now, if you want big horsepower, get an EJ257 (USDM WRX STI motor) and boost the crap out of it. If you want to stay true to the Legacy, get some large injectors (550cc) and tune it and get the other stuff I mentioned.

You don't need to rebuild the heads or reground the cams, 400+hp can be had on stock internals (as in, never cracking the block to do anything). It just takes a big IC, a big turbo, big injectors, good tuning, and race gas.

For a 01, I would think so.

Have you looked under the intake manifold on the side of the engine closest to the washer fluid?