Manarius

The STI models do NOT use the 5x100 pattern. They use the 5x114.3 bolt pattern as seen on the SVX.

The knock sensor is right under the intake manifold. It can be accessed with a very long ratchet extension. That's where it is on the 2.2 - I think it's the same place on the 2.5.

The EJ22T's actually got 100% closed-deck construction.

If the sensor is cracked or the ECU is throwing a CEL.

If your gas mileage is bad over several (several being more than 1) tanks of gas, check out your O2 sensor, knock sensor, and air filter. Also, run a bottle of techron through your gas. The Legacy gas tanks hold 15.9 gallons or 60 liters. The low fuel light should come on at 13.5 gallons or 50 miles before you would potentially run out of gas.

You both know that you should ignore the gas gauge and use the Tripometer. Drive it down to empty, fill it back up, drive it until the low fuel light comes on, refill and then divide the number of km's by the number of gallons or liters that you put in. Then, repeat this a few times, then complain about your gas mileage and we can go from there. I repeat: IGNORE THE GAS GAUGE, IT IS INACCURATE.

So, I can register my Legacy even though it's not really worth showing to anyone? I may just have to do that.

Don't bother with 14 inch rims. Go to 15 or 16. There's no reason to go to a 4 bolt pattern.

The plug wires don't have to be Subaru wires. I'm running non-Subaru wires on my car right now with no issues.

O2 Sensor tied with possibly plugs/wires/coil. If it's "misfiring" the engine should run poorly, not just throw a code.

The VSS2 is gone on your car. Replace it and your CEL will go away and your Speedo will work again. The VSS2 is the sensor at the front of the transmission.

There's a guy on the bbs doing just that. There really isn't any gain as far as I know. I think it runs a little rich though....

Assuming it's a 2.2L, no more than $400.

At 150k miles, you need new struts. I don't know if it's going to be that simple, but I know that's one thing that has to be contributing to your feeling of "boat."

Why would that have anything to do with the car when it's not moving?

The EG33 (the engine that came stock in the SVX) was rated at 230 hp.

I know vibration and even with my idle being a little low (It may be 500..it may be 750) whatever it is, it idles correctly. I know vibration from an engine running on incorrect timing and the vibration that these people describe is not what I would call a serious vibration. If your idle is too low, the vibration would be obscene and it wouldn't go away when it neutral. It's exactly what I said before in the thread - you're holding the car back and that kinetic energy has to be released somewhere and it's released as a vibration that people automatically assume is bad. Every AWD car I've driven has the same problem. FWD cars don't have it, and my Corvette definitely does.

My idle RPM in neutral is like 500. My idle when held under load is exactly same, if not just a tick lower (maybe 50RPM). However, at idle, my car is smooth and when in drive and holding the brake, the car shakes a small bit. Trust me, I've felt car shake and what I get from holding the car from moving is not what I'd call shake or vibration.

We just had a thread about this recently - it's all about you trying to hold the car from moving when it wants to go.

You got that right! And when they do, they go for lots of money .

Two cam pulleys = DOHC, one cam pulley = SOHC. I could have swore they were DOHC until like 2001.

They don't teach how to deal with that in classes in the US either. At least, not in either of the ones I took.

I've never seen any other cases of this on any Legacy.

My clutch pack was working just fine. Yesterday, I could get the rear wheels to engage anytime I felt like it.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/swap.html ^^ Read. That is all.