Manarius

Look at his location - that is all.

Make copies....they don't come with them on the car - all keys are in your hands when you leave the dealership. At least, that's the way it is with the older cars...

How exactly did your Legacy get an EJ18?

SVX > Any Plymouth. SVX's are awesome. They're really interesting cars.

I think if the cat was bad, you'd notice. The rotten egg smell would be...overwhelming.

The EJ22 is a beast of an engine. The stock internals are good for like 400hp.

The EJ22T is SOHC, Non-Interference, Closed-Deck, but 4 Valves per cylinder.

I think Jamal's point is that the Boxer engine isn't exactly as fuel efficient as the average inline four. If you want real mpg, a civic is where it's at, but you won't have the reliability of Subaru.

I think the best final drive you can do in the 5MT FWD's is 3.9. That's about...2600@ 70mph.

I think you said it yourself. The lower hose was cold. To me, that indicates a Thermostat not opening to send the coolant through the radiator. I think it's time to replace your T-Stat with a new OEM one (yes, OEM is required for this sort of item).

I'd rather have the 95 Legacy motor - non-interference ftw.

Wow. Didn't the driver like notice the oil light come on or anything like that? Eeeks. I'd go with a used replacement as opposed to a rebuild.

I missed that. Porcupine has a good point. Get the code read as it may provide further light into this problem.

First: Check all the electrical connections between the battery, alternator and starter. If they're dirty, clean them. If they're loose, tighten them. Second: Have the alternator load tested to see if it's putting out enough juice. If it isn't, that's the culprit. Third: If those things are all all right as well, I suspect that the starter is worn out (albeit that's pretty sudden).

The transmission and the knock sensor wire have to make a T. Well, sort of. Not quite like a T..like mid way. W | i / | T r / | r e / | a | n | n | y

My ASE certified mechanic with 30+ years experience actually recommended to put 20-50w in so that my car wouldn't leak so much. The weather around here doesn't really get that bad so I figure 20w at cold isn't going to kill the engine. I don't know what you mean by "low clearance" but my car has enough piston-valve clearance that it's not an interference engine - if that has any bearing.

Search "Torque Bind." That is all.

Me too. Keeps the leaks down.

Actually, up to 94, there was a button that released the latch on the button on the shifter. There was no need for a screw driver. Press button below the shifter and then press the button on the shifter at the same time.

The MAF problem is very very noticeable. I would hardly call a slight vibration a MAF problem. I also doubt the O2 sensor being the cause of poor idle either.

Is it going to be rowdy like it was few years ago or are they gonna keep it down like it's supposed to be? I'm sure all the guys from nabisco will be out there showing off their ricified Impreza's....

^^^^^^^^^^^^ 15 or 20 Amp I think. Owner's manual has the correct spec.

I don't have that clicking sound like you have, but I can hear my igniter (coilpack) buzzing when my car is in the "ON" position and the engine is not running.

I would think that letting the car run for those two extra minutes isn't going to do anything but annoy you. I personally don't start the car up from sub-freezing temps and just throw it in gear and drive away - I wait a little for the car to warm up so I don't go and break something. However, I'm pretty sure that solenoid wasn't meant to work like that.

Yup, svxpert is right on. Those two leaks are the most common as well