Manarius

If it's grinding when shifting, I would almost be willing to say the synchro's are shot. But, someone who is more familiar with manual transmissions would be more qualified to make an assumption than myself. And as for the AT vs MT thing: I have an AT in a bigger legacy and I have a small bit of torque bind, but my transmission is just fine at 153k miles. I know the AT's do have a little bit of issues with regard ot that, but I wouldn't knock them out just because of a little torque bind. If you try to avoid making sharp turns to make the car bind, the transmission can and will go on without issue. They don't really destroy themselves without driver input. Of course, all the things mentioned above will help ensure the life of the transmission, but I would say that for a driver willing to just be careful, that they aren't completely necessary.

It's a shame to see such a car go. But, you know what I'm glad to see that you recognize what could have been your mistake. What irritates me the most is ricers who just go out and drive real fast even though they haven't got a clue about how to drive fast. And then they complain when they wreck their cars because they can't drive.

Any check engine lights? Maybe a fuse blew. I would want to say the speedo is courtesy of a broken VSS, but I think that it all may stem from some fuse.

He thinks a tire blew out. Read his post again. But, he also took a turn at almost 70 mph...which seems high no matter what the corner is.

You totaled a brand new car to you.....maybe you ought to consider your driving habits.

I second the starter test here. It's a good test. If the hammer fixes it, you know it's the starter. If that doesn't fix it, it may possibly the parking sensor (the sensor that tells the computer that the car is in park to allow it to start).

Battery doesn't make the ABS light come on while you're driving. Battery has nothing to do with the electrical system when the car is on except that it's being charged. Alternator is your issue I think. Instead of making us try to figure it out, how about you go have the alternator load tested.

You are right. However, I think there's a reason they have different ECU's. I recognize that that mpg isn't actually that bad, but perhaps it could be better.

I can't imagine that something of that nature would be good for the system. Obviously the designers of the transmission thought it was a good idea to include it or they wouldn't have. Best not to mess with things like that just because one doesn't like it....

OB99W is absolutely right. The transmission shifts like this for a reason and changing fluid isn't likely to make any difference in cold weather.

Probably hurts since the EJ25 is a very different engine than the EJ22 (at least when it comes to tuning and electronic sensors of the sort). Any particular reason you're running 2.5 ECU and not the 2.2?

Not being a hater, just stating how it is.

Well, on the other cars in my family, that switch is not there. However, they can have their headlights on without the key in so..... Look, I was kind of cras there, but I'm really tired of people bashing their own cars for the features they have. Especially when a person's first post is "WTF is there are parking light switch on my car!? I hate that switch :mad::mad:" I mean, sheesh, what am I supposed to do when I get a post like that...

No, I'm just sick and tired of people complaining about the way their car is. I mean, like come on, it came from the factory that way - deal with it. Subarus have had that switch for years - since way before your 03 Outback. And it really is designed for the EDM market - the only basic difference is the headlight and sidemarker design and possibly speedo, but that's it. The car is pretty much the same, just changed a little bit to meet European spec. And since European spec is usually tougher then US spec, it makes no sense to make extra parts just to meet lower US spec.

Not any 4EAT Subaru transmission. Either end of the duty cycle of Solenoid C is as such: 0% or 100% is 100/0 or 50/50. And, I don't know how you'd do it with a non-STi manual because all non-STi manuals are viscous coupling units - 100% mechanical.

Unfortunately, you show your ignorance in your anger. In Europe, by law, when parking in a narrow street, you are REQUIRED to have your parking lights on. And instead of making to so you could possibly leave your lights on without your keys in and drain your battery, Subaru made a switch just for that purpose. So, maybe you should quit your *****ing and not hit the switch. It's not a hard concept. I would not suggest the above and cut the wires as you could possibly disable the system all together - not a good idea.

Thanks for confirming what I said . Nobody seems to believe me even though I'm absolutely right....

I think that requires replacement of the struts and/or shock setups to add that option. It's definitely not available stock.

Pull it from a STi? No. It's far too complex to even think about pulling. It's too wired into the system.

Define cranking.

It's your job to be a responsible car owner. You have to be knowlegeable about your car and about what happens to it.

You made a few wrong assumptions. The Tranny is only 50/50 when forced into 1st gear. Other than that, it's 90/10 unless there is traction loss. If it jumps 200 RPM or so, I'd say that the torque converter isn't locking correctly or the TCU can't decide whether to lock it or not. This could be because of the TCU or TPS (Throttle Position sensor).

Still wondering why you listen to a dealer. Dealers are there to make money and will screw you out of it willingly. You have to learn that.

It's not the battery. It's the alarm system. And, it doesn't matter about the accessories. I'd recommend a trickle charger like mentioned above. It doesn't really matter what kind of car it is - if it goes for a month without being started, it needs a trickle charger.

Alternator is toast. I'd check the connections first, but I'm willing to bet that the alternator is shot. Too bad you did the wrong thing and bought a battery from Subaru. There are somethings that need to be OEM - batteries are not one of them. Optima Yellow Tops are much better than Subaru batteries.