Manarius

Jeep's system uses a standard transfer case not a MPT Clutch (like the AWD systems do). So, not engaging that transfer case makes for significant mpg increase versus engaging it.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/swap.html That is all.

Importing into this country is a PITA. Besides, I think we're getting far to over-zealous. There's no need to import a 2-door car just to get a 2-door car. If you want a Subaru, get a 4 door, if not, get over it. It's that simple. I fail to see why this is a big discussion.

Broke MAF? That's something you didn't replace.

FWD fuse does not increase MPG - if anything it can lead to an earlier demise of your automatic transmission. There is no benefit to using the fuse unless you have issues with your car. And yes, this fuse only appears on AUTOMATIC cars only. I'm not sure if it appears on the later cars, but I'm sure that it would be in the owner's manual and it would be labelled as FWD if it existed. So, take a look under your hood and see if you can find it.

Well, resetting the ECU didn't fix it. I have a MAF on order so when that comes, I can test that. I did notice an over abundance of oil leaking out one of my PCV pipes - I wonder if that's blocked and causing my issue. Interesting thing though - MAF plugged in or not, the car ran just as bad. So, we can assume one of two things - either the MAF is toast again or the MAF has absolutely nothing to do with it.

Filter size is irrelevant. It's what's inside the filter that counts.

What kind of car do you have? The fuse on the 89-94 Legacies is located on the passenger side strut tower and is labelled FWD. Note: This few only appears on Auto cars. Also, this fuse should only be used for diagnostic purposes as stated in the owner's manual.

Wet sanding and clear coating works the best.

Reset the ECU - still horrible shaking. I can hear loud clacking in the engine like timing's all f'd up.

So, tonight, in the middle of driving home from college, my car just decides to start acting weird. I was driving a long at ~55mph and I suddenly get a really bad shake from the engine area. Lo and behold, if I keep the RPM's up, the shake goes away, but under further inspection, it's just a cover up. I pulled into the grocery store parking lot I was headed toward, and I put it in neutral to rev it up, to see if it would clear out. Well, it didn't clear out. Instead, it just runs like crap. I can hear it hitting and missing and what not and during the neutral revs, I thought I heard it backfire a few times. Definitely signs of what my MAF did back a few months ago. It's weird because this was my 3rd trip tonight (as in trip to one place) and it was in the middle of the trip that the car started acting weird. Before that, I was holding with an STi (he was making good time) and I had absolutely no problem (as in engine acting wacky). Is it another MAF? I have no posted codes, and I'm clearing the ECU tonight to make sure that that isn't the issue. Could it possibly be anything else? In the last shot, I replaced MAF, Knock, and CT sensors. So, assuming that all of those are good except maybe a toasted MAF, that doesn't leave very many sensors left to replace.

Suck it up and get a sedan. They do have a WRX Sport Wagon though.

I personally wouldn't do that just because I wouldn't want to get myself into trouble (I don't know what trouble it could get me into, but I wouldn't want to find out either).

My toasted MAF didn't throw a code until I broke it.

Assuming it turns over every time, I would say either the crank or cam position sensor. Both are easy swaps.

Sorry, but I'm going to have to once again say that EJ22 = EJ22E. Everyone just forgets the E part. Picture is taken from my 1991 Legacy:

EJ22 and EJ22E are the same. EJ22T is the USDM Turbo engine that came in 91-94 Legacies (Sport Sedan or Touring Wagon).

Yeah, a bad connection to the sensor that sends to the gauge, not the Coolant Temp Sensor we find under the Intake.

Does your car have a MAF? If it does, I'd suggest replacing that. My car acted the same way when the MAF was toast.

I would be willing to bet that the Solenoid C is stuck in position causing full time 50/50 split. ::EDIT:: This is post 666 for me :-P

Under the intake. It's the brown plug seen in this picture:

Any 89-94 EJ22E computer should work. Note: N/A engine to N/A engine..no N/A to Turbo ECU's or Vice-Versa.

Maybe a TD-04 or a 16G for the Turbo. You will need new injectors. Probably the STi Pinktops(550cc I think?) with the 92-94NA fuel rails required to fit them.

The car is brand new....I highly doubt it's any of that stuff. As for it not being a bearing, your logic is quite wrong. Bearings make noise all the time, regardless of turning or load. It's usually associated with a grind or roaring sound. I also doubt the rear diff as well. I still think jacking it up will be the best solution. Once you have it jacked up, make sure the wheel is completely tight and then try to shake it. If it moves at all (aside from normal rotating movement) something in there is loose and it's probably the bearing.

I don't think Phil would be that stupid.