Manarius

Don't bother replacing the boot. Replace the entire halfshaft. You can go the "I don't like my money way" and get Subaru OEM parts for $120/axle or you can go the "I like my money way" and get Remanufactured ones from Autozone for $60 a piece.

Yeah, that's an EJ22.

Tired suspension contributes to body flex. When the struts just give all the time, the body gives as well. You're trying to make your 13 year old Legacy L not be a Legacy L and that's just simply not going to happen. I think you're nitpicking at things that the rest of us just expect from a 13 year old car with many many miles on it.

I don't think so. Vikash's scanner only works with OBDI as I recall and cars after 95 are OBDII.

Cross-Drilled rotors are a very bad idea. They heat up and crack.

I think replacing the tired suspension will do more good than a strut bar ever would.

If they stop working, replace them with Canadian Spec belts.

1500!? What are they doing? Replacing your entire engine? Jeez. All that work together isn't more than 8-900. Brakes on these cars are a joke and valve cover gaskets aren't a challenge for even the most basic mechanic.

Coolant Temp sensor replacement. Check a recent thread - it's the same procedure.

Isn't there a recall out for that? I thought I remembered seeing that somewhere else.

Plug in for a genuine Subaru Amp? They have those you know...

Either way, if the timing belt breaks, the engine needs to come out.

But, you'd need to replace the bottom end too - if you get a dent on the piston head....

It's got 98k miles on it, I'd replace it now. You don't want it to break on you...that basically destroys the bottom of the engine.

The front diff is irrelevant. The final drive of the tranny has to match the rear diff. The rear diff usually has a sticker on it stating what its ratio is.

90-94 Legacys are known for having crazy gas gauges. We've tried everything to make them not, and nothing works.

You can use any year Legacy/Outback transmission. You'll just need to get a matching rear differential (final drive) and preferably one with the same time of speedo sensor (cable or electronic). The speedo part though can be gotten around either way.

Techron works in the newer cars, but not in the older cars. Trust me, on the BBS we've tried everything.

I personally wouldn't replace the CV unless it's busted. No point in doing preventative maintence on something that usually lasts the life of the car unless a boot goes.

$120 for the bearing - 60 for the bearing and 60 for the labor. Don't bother doing the other side if it isn't howling. From the thump though, I wonder if it's not a back half-shaft doing that. Inspect the boots of the half-shaft to see if they're all right. The thumping noise sounds like CV's going bad, not wheel bearings.

Clean the IAC like that which was mentioned above.

Starter solenoid contacts. I've seen it time and time again. You can replace the contacts, but it's probably just worth it to replace the entire starter.

Under the dash, in the middle, there's a housing with a lever on the outside. These things have a tendency of getting stuck and causing your problem. Wish I could be more specific, but I've never had the problem so I can't be exact, but your problem resembles that.

I'll be very clear: There is no computer change that can make the car 100% RWD. The closest you can get is 50/50 split. It's a simple matter of how the system works.

My plug has no gasket and I leak 0 oil. Sounds to me like it wasn't put on tight enough.