Manarius

Then why are you trying to turn your car into that?

Yeah, well, you tell me when the average person is going to hit 140, because I'd like the see that. As far as I know, the highest posted speed limit here in North America is 80MPH. Only stupid ricers put big wings on their cars. The smart ones make their cars really plain so cops don't think they're going fast.

You can use any size wheel/tire you want as long as it has the correct offset and pattern. Now, granted, anything bigger than 17 inches usually ends up rubbing somewhere, so people end up with 16's and 50/55 series tires.

Well, he hot soldered wires together that weren't originally wired like that before. And because the system runs on resistance, it probably increased resistance on the system when he did that soldering. So, the ECU reads that as a higher resistance and therefore makes the blinkers blink like crazy. So, grounding out the system may perhaps alleviate the problem. I don't know for sure though because I'm not an electrician. The blinker system, while simple, is delicate and mucking with it can lead to some weird things, ie this person's problem.

All right. Here's my idea on this one. By soldering the wires together, you messed up the system and now that's why it blinks fast. Try grounding it out a little bit and see if that fixes it. And for the stop lamp, have you replaced any of the rear bulbs recently? The ECU reads the resistance across them and "determines" whether a bulb is out or not. This is a good system, but weird bulbs can give it a reading it interprets as a bulb being blown out.

Yes. You need a new starter. The shift-interlock system on these cars does not go bad very often...the starters go bad far more often.

In terms of shift speed? Fast. In terms of race speed? Slow. But, a dogbox shift is almost as fast as an Auto shift, and has the brain of a human behind it, not the retard logic of a TCU. Ask anyone who builds transmissions, MT's are faster than Auto's if driven correctly. Phil (BAC5.2) on the bbs had a dogbox in his old ABM SS...that thing flew.

All right. Stock TCU on 90-94 transmissions will shift at 6500 if in power mode. However, the torque band and max HP cut way before that (4400 and 5600 RPM respectively). So, how is that correct logic? Besides, get a dogbox and some skill and you'll be just as fast as an auto.

Exactly. Autos are slow. I know weight and all that stuff played into it, but Auto's are slow. And street racing is wrong. Period. I mention the SVX forum again.

Civic Si 7.2 second 0-60? Seems a little slow to me.

It's a rare item. Legacies after 1994 don't have that nice aux input that makes for ease in hooking in a MP3 player.

That's not true. The EJ22T is a monster for being non-interference. I think the tranny swap to 5MT with Engine swap will run around 3000USD. The engine alone will cost 600+ just because of how rare they are. A 5MT swap alone is around 1.5k.

What inspired that purchase, Josh?

Vacuum leaks usually cause weird idle...like it jumping up and down randomly. If he's just describing that the car when held to a stop while in drive vibrates a lot, I'm rather sure it's just the AWD system trying to move the car.

I'm going to go with IAC Valve on this one. Idle Air Control Valve to be specific. I don't have a picture of it, but it usually needs cleaned after a while and this is one of the symptoms of it being dirty. Also check to make sure you don't have any flailing vacuum lines.

That statement is not 100% true. Some of us.....most of us have had good luck with Remanufactured Axles. I did the math already, it's not cost effective to get Subaru Axles every time one starts clicking.

Tick Tick Tick isn't piston slap, it's sticking HLA's.

Well, I'm not sure about the intake then. The shaking is from the AWD system. Every Subaru with AWD that I've riden in has this sort of "shaking" issue when stopped and in drive. If you really don't like it, just drop the car in neutral at stops - I do.

How much are you planning to increase the tube diameter to? If it's more than about 2.5 inches, don't even bother. N/A engines need backpressure to function correctly. No matter what you to do that engine short of major internal work, you're not going to get much more power out of it, it's that simple. And by much, I mean...maybe 10hp. And drivetrain loss in Auto AWD systems is A LOT.

Interesting. I was almost positive that PA inspections covered that stuff. Must not be as stringent on that as they are on the damn emissions

Doubt you'd get 15hp from a N/A Exhaust set up and no, it probably wouldn't make any difference at all. If you want a fast car in a straight line, go get one with a Turbo and not AWD because those factors make for big time whp loss. But then, after doing that, you'll be like every other ricer in the world. Legacy owners are supposed to be cultured drivers, not lame-rump roast street racers like all the ricers.

PCV valve might be shot. That could account for the "gumming" in the intake.

Umm. No. 165 HP is bhp, or hp at the crank. It's certainly not that at the wheels. You have AWD and an auto, that's why you got smoked. You also have a car that weighs much more than the civic. Subarus aren't fast in straight lines without a lot of modding so.....

Some random person just took a B4 Sedan, made it into a coupe, and added those windows. 100% photoshop.

MAF and MAP do the same thing, so I think their failure symptoms would be somewhat intertwined.