Manarius

Yeah, I didn't want to beat the dead horse with this one, but doing the "switch" method to doing 50/50 with the AWD isn't good for the system. I just wanted to point him in the right direction if he wants to take that risk.

Consider how the car is working when it's in drive - the engine is still turning but you are holding the brake so the transmission still wants to move, but can't because you're holding on the brake. I believe the vibration you're all describing is a product of that.

Unless your car is bucking or acting really weird, don't bother messing with the MAF. The vibration you describe has been present in every Subaru I've driven - it's just a thing with the AWD system; a quirk if you will.

Search. It's been covered many times. Use something like "Solenoid C" and "50/50".

I think the MAF is toast. What you describe is exactly what happened on my car (91 Legacy with MPFI) when the MAF was bad.

Flood cars never make good for anything but parts

Every Subaru of the new generation up to 2004 (Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester) uses the exact same bolt pattern and offset. The bolt pattern is 5x100 and I forget what the offset is. The SVX does NOT use the same bolt pattern and neither does the new (2005-2006) Impreza WRX (which happens to use the same bolt pattern as the SVX).

1991 Legacy L AWD AT w/ 154k miles.

My cousin works at that Red Robin....I'd be up for it if I wasn't at college, but I may be able to make it home that weekend...

Has an awful lot of door dings.

I assure you, the entire job, from start to finish, could be done in two hours. Mind you, I'm a 19 yo college student who isn't very mechanically inclined, but I did those doorlocks.

The HobbyGary write up is very easily done. It took me like an hour to do both the back doors (most of that was spent disassembling the darn door). The OEM parts would be bloody expensive and would be just as likely to break again.

Have the transmission replaced for 500 bucks. Screw a rebuild.

I'd say that torquebind is by far the most common issue. Do a search on "torquebind"; you'll find exactly what you need to figure out if the car has it. Another semi-common issue is wheel bearings...not too big of an issue, just an annoyance. Otherwise, they're pretty much bulletproof. And look for like 18-25 mpg with AWD depending on your driving habits.

$400 independent mechanic. TBelt is easy on these cars.

Holy huge font, Batman! Yes, cars being parted out are great sources of parts - such as a liftback.

As I recall, the answer to that is yes, and in the older versions (pre 1995-1996) they were a screen and not recommended to be replaced.

No. The bolt pattern is wrong.

23/24 is pretty good for a car with AWD in the winter and autotragic transmission.

The TC breaks when it's not seated correctly on top of the tranny. I bet your flexplate is cracked like was mentioned above.

Most likely, it involves removal and disassembly of the radio itself. If you're okay with doing that, if it a shot. If not, just either deal with that it's dark or replace the head unit. It's not going to be a very easy task, but it can be done.

That's a really cool video.

I just did it with some extensions....not too difficult.

I wonder if the blower door actuator is sticky. I don't know exactly where it is, but if you look at the bottom of the center of the console, there should be some place where a lever is exposed. This lever controls airflow and sometimes it can get stuck.

They aren't too loaded (No leather, etc), but I think the Ti's have heated mirrors? Or maybe that's the Mi....either way it's a rare option that the car might have.