tunered

gary,i do this everyday.you can get a air hammer[a discount one will workabout 29 dollars] and you will have to get a panel cutter chisel for it.not familar with your car but,you will need to cut 2" back from where you want to replace,if its bad inside the door then cut it out there.the welding should be done with a tig but a mig with argon will be fine.it dosent take a rocket scientist to do this but it does take some time.i can walk and talk you thru this.this is for a faster job.if you want to really do it right you need to cut every spot weld[they make a spot cutter[looks like a 1/8 bit on the end of a 3/8 bit]and it cuts out the spot welds,this method is used on newer cars and insurance jobs.

not familar with your model but basics are probbally the same. there should be a plastic sleeve where your wires run into light,twist sleeve counter clockwise,this will let pull light bulb out[might have to twist because of o-ring] unplug wires.

you will have to get the old glass off the housing and i dought if you can do it with out breaking[dosent matter ] if you have to bust it off,clean off old glue and install new one.if glue dosent come with new one clear silicon works .

go with the febreze,not the one for cars, get the one for home that works on chairs,curtains etc. this stuff works,most just cover it up for a while and then you have to do it again.

if the housing is still usable your local automotive glass dealer can cut you a new mirror and glue it in for about 8-10 dollars.

nipper,my point was he was expecting to get some help,not instructions to buy a book.having said what i have i fully understand what you are saying,im not ragging on you.but basic instructions might help him get it done. please accept my apoligy. ed

keep checking your oil and watch for metal on the stick,when the chain tensioner wears out the chain rubs the metal holder and creates this metal dust.

go pick yourself up a manual,what if his car is broke down? nothing urks me more than somebody telling me to buy something,if he had a manual he wouldnt need your help.

i have worked in the autobody business since i was 16 years old,i will say that i have replaced more toyota sheetmetal because of rust than any other import,probbally enough metal to rebuild the twin towers.

also check for a busted belt in a rear tire.

i sure would like to have one of them manuals that shift at redline.

its kinda behind the glove box,you will have to remove the glovebox,you will see a connecter,pull off and there is screws that hold it in.it looks like a cage wiyh windings in it.maybe the plug is loose? never had to replace so dont know about price.im sure somebody will know.

your trans code should be on a silver tag under hood on drivers side up towards winshield.

when put in 2nd with manual on it takes off in 2nd no first

if its the hard abs plastic they might have a point,use a heat gun or hair dryer and warm it up and push out,the longer it stays there the harder it is to get out.

this is a guess only,coil or ignitor is weak causing poor spark which in turn is throwing the emissions code.

http://surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html#manualbutton read this.

i would find out if the trans is good ,if the struts has been replaced,if the car has been kept up its a good buy,but if everything has been let go,BUYER BEWARE.

usually brakes that wear like that are dragging,cant really understand all of your post.

Remember A Lifter Goes Tic -tic Not Knock-knock.

WELCOME

job well done. dont look all that bad,when it warms up you can color it and be good to go.

you might look under the baqck and see3 if there was ever tow hitch on the car and check for any splices,bad connections,shorts under there. have you tried taking out the 4way flasher and then trying the turn signals?

dont know about grinding,should have felt a real fast pulsing.[pumping]

im taking bets on sticking exaust valves if the guides were replaced,if not injectors.