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Everything posted by johnceggleston
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yeah, painless was exactly the word that was going thru my mind, F *** painless. sligh.t update, the previous post was about what hapesend at 2pm. at 5 pm i got in and started it up, FWD was on and no TB. remove the fuse , TB again! yeah, painless!! so it would seem that i have an intermitten TB problem, or more correctly, an intermitten duty c problem. how do you spell painless, F***!!!!!!!! ps: wayne , do you still have that extention housing i LENT you.!! and i thought i'd been soooooo gooooood lately!!!!
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95 leg 2.2, 172k miles, with a 96 leg 4eat w/ 125k miles. i swapped in the trans about 3k miles ago and it has run fine until now. (i did not swap the TCU.) my son came home from college yesterday, and when i took it for a drive today the AT TEMP light was blinking at start up. i stopped the car, and re started it, and it wasn't blinking. i stopped/started it again, and it was back. it feels as though it has slight TB. after turning tight circles i can feel the rear end relax if i shift into neutral, but no shuttering or jumping. i have had that before on my 97 when the duty c failed. i put in the FWD fuse and no change with driving, no change with blinking, and no FWD light on the dash. my plan is to replace trans fluid, all of it. and get the tranny codes read. after that , i don't know. i'm not optimistic. any thoughts or suggeations? john
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non interference subaru engines died in 1997. fini, kaput !! all 2.5's are interference. 95 , 96 were the last non-interference engines in the us. and the best for a swap, 95 better than 96. question: could you put a 95 2,2L into a 94 legacy? could you put a 94 2.2L block into a 95 legacy if you used the 95 intake??
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i'm sure you want a solution and given your situation i don't blame you a bit for buying a better battery, but... until you know what is causing the battery drain you may end up with a dead , expensive, and yet still rechargable battery. i would see if leaving the alarm off allows the battery to last any longer before i bought the new battery. you can always go buy one. but what if it diesn't correct the problem. just my .02 worth. i would think a battery disconnect would be best. a switch inside. a relay under the hood with a switch inside would be better. and unless the starter is causing the drain, you don't need to disconnect it. just the power going to the fuse boxes. i'd be willing to bet that something like a 50amp 120V circuit breaker would do the trick. (and with the battery disconnected no one can drive/steal it.) maybe a device that plugs in like a fuse, has a diconnect and a fuse. that would allow you to isolate the problem by moving it around from fuse to fuse. but since you are limited in what you can do yourself, good luck with the battery. hopefully it will give you the more time inbetween starts that you need.
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if you are trashing the rest of the car, get a sawzall and cut away the front bumper, and cross member , and top radiator support (all the cross pieces between the bumper mounting points) and just slide the whole eng / trans. forward. you only have to jack up the car enough to clear the the engine cross member.
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hub caps, who knows what these fit?
johnceggleston replied to johnceggleston's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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SECOND PIC DOWN LEFT COLUMN SHOWS THE REAR TRANSFER CASE (with clutch pack inside) REMOVED FROM the trans. it can be done in the car, so iv'e read. do a search for the write up. i paid 285$ labor to have a known good clutch pack installed on my 97 obw. i had the clutch pack off of a bad trans recently replaced. used is always a gamble. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/?action=view¤t=4EATcsol.jpg