johnceggleston

this is first time i can remember some one taking the car in for o2 service and the dealer didn't say right away that "you needed a new cat". they always say "you need a new cat", it's the standard. 1000$ vs. 100$ ? they must get bonus points for selling cats. i bet the threads are not even stripped. "you need a new cat".

does the key unlock the driver door? but not the other 3? or none? if the key opens the driver door, it's an electrical / connector / wiring problem, not the key. do all the locks work properly when you activate them from the inside at driver door lock?

if you're looking for a production date on the car, look on the bottom of the drivers door, (or door post between doors on older cars.).

the last time i asked , i was told , i think, that to remove and replace the trans was 3.5 hours. around here that equals about 275$. (i paid 515$, but he also changed the rear seal and oil seperator plate, new fulid , etc...) plus the time to open the case and make the repair, plus the parts. i don't know what gps cost.... do they give yopu your speed og travel?

wagon or sedan? i thought sedans were mounted under the rear deck in the trunk.

they didn't invent the 100k limit until california demanded it. when that started, calf cars were 100k, and all others were 60k miles. and you could ignore both since the cars were non-interference. once they went to 2.5 they all got 105k limit, 2.5 and 2.2s. apparently the difference is in the quality and durability of the belt.

check out this pic. inside of front diff. yellow gear drives the speedo pinion(?), the hole above and to the right is the VSS#2 opening, or in your case , where the speedo cable enters the diff housing.. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/?action=view&current=Image015.jpg&refPage=&imgAnch=imgAnch10

someone commented somewhere that using tap water , especially tap water that's hard , can cause the impeller to rot away. the same thing happened to my 90 nissan pick up. never leaked.

i would think that if they were interchangable the salvage yard sites would be offering them both when you searched for one or the other.

in virginia, the cops claim to catch speeders with airplanes. and in order to accomplish this they have painted big white stripes across the roads all over the state. the 3 stripes are 1/4 mile apart, 1/2 mile from first to third. so when you pass one you just time your self to the next one. then it's just a math problem. MPH = 900 / (qtr. mile seconds) example: 900/15 sec. = 60 mph or 900/12 sec. = 75 mph so come on down to VA and test your speedometer and your luck. my only trouble is that my new cell phone doesn't have a stopwatch, my old one did.

double post error

there have been some recent threads on this, look for VSS or speed sensor. i think nipper posted a rply about how it works. larger tires will make the car travel faster than the current speedo reading, regardless whether or not the speedo is accurate. but the problem is you'll be guessing what size to buy unless you can test drive some one else's tires/wheels. if you can borrow some ones front wheels/tires, and drive with the FWD fuse in just to see how they work. that way you don't have to swap all 4 just to test, assuming it's an a/t.

i thought the fogs were only on when the low beams were on. i know they are off when high beams are on. i never tried them without head lights.

let's hear it for moms!!! moms rock!!! :banana: and any one else who happens to love us and is willing to help!!!

i'm confused. what car are you driving, which trans is in the car, which trans is the spare?

the front speed sensor (VSS#2) sends to the speedometer AND it disconnects from the wiring harness at the sensor. very easy to remove and replace. the rear speed sensor (VSS#1) sends to the ecu/tcu regarding AWD power. this sensor does not disconnect from the wiring harness. the other end of the wire is tied into the wiring connector on the transmission, one of 12 or 15(?). so i'd address the front one , VSS#2, first. doing the rear will mean a wire splice, this leads me to believe it rarely fails... maybe. john

they had 14" and 15" alloy wheels in the late 90's on legacys. the 15's were 205 tires. the impreza had a 15" that was 195 tire , i think.

courious : did you get any kind of at/temp or cel light as a problem indicator??

check on line or a marine supply outfit and get a 12v hairdryer. just don't over heat the glassin one spot, it can crack.

after you back off the lock nut, use spray paint to mark the tie rod end in addition to measuring and counting. i have also seen a hack saw used to mark the threaded end. you just want to make sure it goes back together the exact same way so you don't have to buy an alignment.

so do you have less or the same as before?? you can try lots of fixes, but if it doesn't go away, what are your choices? fix it (replace, rebuild) before it dies or drive it until it dies. me , i'd drive it and continue to try fixes, aditives, frequent oil changes, etc. what have you got to loose? i'd go for as many miles as i could before i spent major bucks. it may tick for another 100k miles. maybe try thicker, or thiner oil. good luck john

i take it that this is a steering issue, not a Torque Bind issue???

i'm not sure it's a 50/50 torque split, some one some where explained the 50/50 as the duty c cycle. i'm not real sure what that means, but until we have an awd on a 4 wheel dyno and actually test it, we'll never know. but the 50/50 is an effective way to describe the difference between "mostly FWD" (90/10) and AWD (50/50). except for off roading , how many have gotten a subaru stuck? or a better question, how many have driven a subaru past 6 stuck 4WD SUV's? the computer does a pretty good job making these cars go. and my experience has been, almost 200K subaru AWD miles and one 300$ awd drive repair. i'm hooked. my only disappointment is that since i moved and changed jobs, i'm only driving 16K miles ayear, down from 30k. i think my car is going to rot before i wear it out. do you subaru??

typically the 2.5 a/t and the 2.2 a/t have different part numbers. this is most likley due to different final drive ratios, 2.2 AT = 4.11, 2.5 AT = 4.44. MT were different than both 3.9 i think. i haven't read anthing about the compatability/swap-ability of the transmissions themselves. i would look for the gear ratio of each and compare. this would give you a good idea. subaru would have been real smart if they were the same. some trans model numbers: TA102AAAAA = 95 LEG 2.2 A/T FWD; 2&6 "A"s = fwd TZ102ZAAAA = 95 LEG 2.2L A/T AWD; the Z's indicate awd TZ102ZABAA = 96 LEG 2.2L A/T AWD TZ102ZACAA = 97/98 2.2L LEG A/T AWD TZ102Z2CBA = 97/98 2.5L a/t awd outback; the 2 = 2.5L except in 96 where in meant outback trim TZ102Z2DBA = 98/99 2.5L a/t awd outback TZ1A2ZJEBA = 99 (late) 2.5 a/t awd outback; the 4th A is different, new gen of trans???????? TZ1A4ZCCA = 2000 2.5 a/t awd outback; another change yet again

one of the nice things about this forum is that there are people who are willing to help others. i don't know any where near waht others do, but i can repeat what i've learned for those who know even less. thankfully some one was willing to take the time to educate me on piston slap, clutch packs (still learning about that one), and engine swaps. a haynes manual is a great start , but when it comes to changing your plugs, it's liable to say "remove and replace". but here, you will find someone posting a picture of the socket, extention & ratchet arrangment necessary to do the job with less headache. oh yeah, don't forget the duct tape!!! so thanks to all those who help.