johnceggleston

in a bad storm , i'd stay home!! and as much as i'd like to test my outback in a little snow, we don't get enough to really do that. also, it's not the snow that is the most challenging, it's the other drivers. regardless of wether or not i could drive in it , i know the other guys don't know how to drive in it. i'm staying home if i can. but it is fun.

sounds like they were incorperating some of the outback features a little early.

95 - 99 are the same body / chasis styles. doors form one will fit the other, etc. the 99 engine had some slight differences, 95 2.2 swap into a 99 2.5 is not as easy as into a 97 or 98. the a/t was the beginning of the 4eat phase 2, it has the spin on exterior trans filter. but all body parts should swap. and the agreement here is that the wiring harness is the same for the limited as it is for the brighton. so enjoy.

i don't know. i would have thought itwould have come up before now.

i take it you believe this to be all jdm suby trannys, not just svx?

residential delivery is 50$ extra because they have to send a lift gate. business delivery is standard since they recieve shipments all the time the assumption is that they have the means to unload. it may be possible to pick up your delivery from the trucking company depot. that may cut the shipping as well. then you have to load into your vehicle. 2 guys can lift and carry a suby a/t ok. i wouldn't want to have to throw it into a dumpster, but putting it into an outback or pickup is no problem. regarding jdm transmissions, re-read nippers posts in this thread.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=555115&postcount=5

look for torque bind. the 95 and 96 could have some hidden in the tightest turns. (all the way, lock to lock). i had some minor in my 95 when i bought it . thought it was standard. it only gets worse. the seat, if the previous ownr was heavy, the seat may sag lower than usual. ? door locks?

i think i'd look for a 97 or 98 gt that needs a head gasket, swap in the 2,2 and go!!!!!!! then sell pieces parts. or not if you have a large yard or garage.

my last mechanic in richmond, va also said subarus were expensive to repair when they got old. he preferred hondas. (he drove a huge american pickup.) but he worked on my subys and didn't complain more than he did while working on bmws or toyotas. i've had good luck with my legacys. i can't believe the quality of an impreza would be much different. i've driven over 200k subaru miles on 3 legacys (93, 95, 97obw) and i've replaced 4 timing belts and 1 tranmission and one clutch pack. i spent a total of $14,100 for all 3 and sold the 93 to the insurance company for $3000 after the wreck. the only thing i've driven that comes close to that is my 90 nissan pickup. bought it new, now has 177k miles. i'd still be driving it every day if it had a back seat. subarus cost less to buy than other cars, they run longer, and you get AWD. what's not to love.

i contacted an ebay parts seller about a good used clutch pack off of a bad transmission. i know given the labor to do the swap it's a huge risk, but i thought if i could get it cheap enough and with 2 units to compare i might beable to make an informed decision about how and what causes the problem and whether or not to risk it. anyway the seller responded with "the clutch pack new is only $80 - $90". now i just assumed he was talking about the manual trans. clutch, but i don't have any idea. i wrote back suggesting we were talking about 2 different items but got no response, which surprised me since he says he has 30+ subarus for parts to sell. is it possible that the actual clutch plates in the clutch pack cost less than 100$? if so would new plates and duty c correct the problem in my car.? since i have the at temp light blinking, i know the duty c is bad, i take it the spool valve is pressure driven not electronic. but i guess there is no way to tell what else is going / gone bad in side there. i guess i'm wondering if the dealers install a new extention housing any time the duty c goes bad like they do the cats when the o2 sensor gives the 0420 (?) code. just thinking out loud. john

doesn't the cd input qualify as an aux input. of course it's used by the cd player, but it's there. could you sacrifice the cd player for and actual aux input?? all the radios have cd capability, right?

does your car have an alarm, is it factory installed, then just check your best guess and send in the paper work. unless you are trying to mislead there will never be a problem. the insurance company just needs the boxes checkerd and the paper filed. if you have any concerns about repercussions from the insurance company, print off all of these posts and stick them in a file with a copy of your application. they show a genuine effort to give correct information, you have made a much greater effort than most people would. the chances of your car being stolen are low. the chances that there is a greater loss because you checked the wrong box is lower. the discount you will receive is even less. just my opinion. john

drive northwest until you find a hill, park pointing uphill and burp it. what was done first and why? did it overheat before? could be you started with one problem corrected that and ran into another one in the process, like air bubble in the cooling system. hope it's that simple.

i can hear nipper chiming in now "they put the thermostst in for a reason, bite the bullet and get the repair....." but i agree, running without for a while shouldn't kill your engine, water in the oil could. no offense nipper, i just couln't resist. did i quote you correctly?

track it and see if is associated with buying gas, or gas tank half full or what ever. or jus buy a gas cap.

did you check them in lo beam or hi beam or both? the fogs only come on in lo beam.

not that i'm aware of. no codes. but i don't know how it may affect the timing or gas mix. i will say that around town all short hops, i get really crappy gas mileage, 18 - 19 maybe. the hiway is ok, 24- 25 mpg at 70 mph, but then it's running long enough forthe slap to deminish. i used to drive 2/3's hiway and average 25 mpg. now i'm 2/3's city and it stinks. john

at the very least, any legacy 95 - 99 with the same tranmision will be a perfect fit. it is posible, not likely, that the other tranny will fit. it is highly likely that the same tranny , 90 - 99+ will fit. try searching a/t vs. m/t for all years in question at 1stsubaruparts.com . i may have one if you have an a/t. john

how about a foam cushion and 2way sticky tape???

how many nasa engineers does it take to fix a subaru? NONE, subarus are fixed by drivers!!! that's about as close as i can get to funny.

what did you pay for them? was it hard to install?

sounds like it's 2.2 time.

yeah, painless was exactly the word that was going thru my mind, F *** painless. sligh.t update, the previous post was about what hapesend at 2pm. at 5 pm i got in and started it up, FWD was on and no TB. remove the fuse , TB again! yeah, painless!! so it would seem that i have an intermitten TB problem, or more correctly, an intermitten duty c problem. how do you spell painless, F***!!!!!!!! ps: wayne , do you still have that extention housing i LENT you.!! and i thought i'd been soooooo gooooood lately!!!!

how could it not have a thermostat? the temp guage would never move if it were missing, it certainly wouldn't reach the mid point on the guage. you'd have almost no heat. ?.?.? the ecu would always think it was just starting up. maybe in texas it's hot enough... how long have you had this car.?

95 leg 2.2, 172k miles, with a 96 leg 4eat w/ 125k miles. i swapped in the trans about 3k miles ago and it has run fine until now. (i did not swap the TCU.) my son came home from college yesterday, and when i took it for a drive today the AT TEMP light was blinking at start up. i stopped the car, and re started it, and it wasn't blinking. i stopped/started it again, and it was back. it feels as though it has slight TB. after turning tight circles i can feel the rear end relax if i shift into neutral, but no shuttering or jumping. i have had that before on my 97 when the duty c failed. i put in the FWD fuse and no change with driving, no change with blinking, and no FWD light on the dash. my plan is to replace trans fluid, all of it. and get the tranny codes read. after that , i don't know. i'm not optimistic. any thoughts or suggeations? john