johnceggleston

wouldn't your engine make it "Nu-Blu"??

sounds like a tranny swap to me.

50 miles is 1/25,000,000, that's one 25 millionth in the 200k life of the car. just don't ever do it again.

if the trans oil pump is crushed.... what is the repair, new/used tranny or can the oil pump be replaced economically?? thanks, john

i droped an engine / trans out of a 96 that way. it's reallly easy coming out of a junker cause you can cut away all of the front cross members for the bumper, and radiator. but i left the wheels on and that made it awkward. but again removing is easier. sliding or rolling the unit in to place on a furniture dolly or balanced on a jack would do the trick if wheels are off and you are on concrete. but the car has to be really high. i wonder if an engine hoist / lift would be strong enough to lift the fron of the car?? good luck.

i replaced my starter with one i had from a donor car and it did the same thing. apparently my problem was that not enough juice was getting to the starter thru the ingnition relay, so i added another relay at the starterwith a new hot lead from the battery. i used the wire from the ignition to activate the new relay. a search should produce directions and diagram. mine has worked like a dream. hasn't missed once since the fix. relay, fused lead, wire and fittings 15$ max, labor 30 minutes.

you don't want to pull the gas tank if you don't have to. on 95-99 the differential has to come out. again on 95 -99 the sending unit access is between the trunk and the back seat under the carpet. with the seat out its eeasier to work from the car. with the seat in it's easier to work from the trunk. the fuel lines run under the carpet on the driver side and through the wall/floor under the rear seat on the left (driver) side. there should be 2 or 3 of them. again, 95-99. my guess is that 90-94 is similar.

burning / cooking carpet may produce toxic fumes, be careful. i guess you checked the coolant level?

gary, 2 questions: what would you guess is the balance point for a ej22 w/ 4eat, the dog bone point or what?? did you find your slide pins fopr your brakes.?? pm me if you still need them. will 96 leg wagon 2.2 4eat workk? oh, and one more thing, how do you lose / ruin a slide pin for a front brake caliper.??

how about a group, bulk buy. see if we can get a wholes price>

so the wires are good, is the spark??? coil pack. ???

found it!! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=39648&postcount=1 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4857&highlight=gusset

iread a thread that said don't replace, flex them into the right shape , it will correct the problem. save the parts money for when you really need it. i don't remember exactly how to do it, i just remember the thread this fall, i think.

fix the fuse link and put the wires back where they belong. once the column is exposed ther is a tiny screw that hold the electric ignition swicth on to the mechanical ignition lock/keyway thing. it's located on the left end of the ignition assembly. undo the screw and use a screwdriver to rotate the switch, careful, there may not be a spring return from start to on, can't remember. you don't want to destroy your starter. but skip is right, how are you going to over come the steering lock. given time and patience you can remove the 2 or 4 security snap bolts that hold on the ignition lock assembly. you have to use a hammer and chisel to slowly back them out. did you try some one else's subaru key or may be an old nissan key, (90 nissan = 95-99 subaru, at the least, maybe more.) they buy from the same supplier.

whsn they designed the 2.5 they were looking for more horsepower. one way they got it was to lighten the piston and/by shortening the skirts. this leads to piston slap. i don't know why some slap and some don't. but it's not a subaru only problem, gmc has it on some of their big engines. (too bad subaru didn't learn from them or vice versa) the solution is to replace the pistons, i think passenger side is most likley to slap. i think the pistons were redesigned , but i'm not sure. if under warranty and the customer complains long enough they will fix it. but some don't develope until the warranty is over. supposedly slap is not an indicator of imminant failure, but i'm not sure. i'll let you know in 100k miles. most time the the slap goes away after the piston heats up and expands, mine doesn't. it lessens, but it still slaps.

ithink haynes manuals are only 15$ retail at the auto parts store. if they have yours in stock. the quick fix is to buy another lighter socket and wire it to a fused hot wire of suitable amps. amps shouldn't be a big deal if you only use it for radio not lighter. there should be a light that comes on when you open the glove box. disconnect the light and wire in the "radio" socket, maybe.. if it were just the lighter i'd check the wiring behind the socket itself. but sunce it 's the horn as well, it may be a bigger problem. double check that the horn under the hood has wires conected to it. i think it's mounted on the passenger side up front near the headlight?

i went to car-part.com and searched for rear diffs for 2.5's manual and a/t and 2.2 manual and a/t legacy / outback. what i learned is below.(AND THIS IS NOT DEFINITE, DO YOUR OWN REASEARCH) and i'm working from memory, but i posted this in the last 2 months so a search would show what i knew, not what i remember. '95 - '99 2,5's = outback's & gt's are 3.9 manual and 4.44 a/t 2.2's = legacy's 3.9 manual and 4.11 a/t peoblems: 95 and 96 were transition years for the 2.5 engine / trans. so there is /was not enough information to assume that they matched the 97 -99 years. in other words, it is possible that 96 2.5 at had a 4.11. i don't know that they did but idon't know that they didn't. same for 95, only less so. did they even offer the 2.5 in 95??? by 97 the outback / gt was set at 2.5. now for corrections: i have been corrected before and i don't argue the point, but ... the trend seems to be what i have stated above. the other thing to do is to compare the tranny numbers. tz102z2xxx is a 2.5 a/t (97 - early 99, maybe 96 to 99). tz102zAxxx is a 2.2 a/t.(in a 95 2.2L leg sedan. i swapped a 96 2.2 leg wagon a/t into the sedan with no problems so i assume that the 96 is an 'A' as well. i did some tranny number research last year and posted, more searching might confirm. try "tz102zaaaa") i don't have or know part numbers for manual transmissions, sorry. when searching legacy rear "carrier"s (differentials) the first question they ask is 2.5 or 2.2. they then go to mnaual or a/t . conclusions: (and this is a strech) manuals are 3.9 and a/t's depend on the engine. (DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH) get a tranny that matches your engine/tranny model and year!!!!! if not get the diff to go with it. especially if you are changing from 2.5 to 2,2. when in doubt , call the dealer give them the vin and ask, for both the donor car and the receiving car. i recommend 2 dealers just ot be sure. some parts guys are not the sharpest knives in the drawer. regarding gear ratios and teeth: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=520095&postcount=9 good luck, john PS i spotted a complete 91 legacy LS 2.2L sedan awd a/t abs today in a salvage yard, keys on the front seat. wrecked front, (bad front bumper grill, hood, etc. and dented left side all the way back.) last driven before something /03, inspection sticker was '03. your guess is as good as mine about the engine but the tranny might/should be good. miles were either 61k or 161k. if interested let me know, i'll double check and ask about it.

the bad news, 10 months is nothing in the life of a subaru. you better start ....

that tire is 3/4" wider and 5/8" taller than 185/75/14. go borrow an out back wheel & tire (205/75/15) and see if it clears. if so you'll have at least a 1/2" clearence. if not ..... i don't know. you might try looking at cars101.com to see if any 90-94 legs had larger tires/wheels.

then why do the repair?. just drive it till it quits, buy a used engine and go again. i can't do it, but some people talk about pullling and installing an engine in a day. (i wouldn't even try) the timing belt will almost be that long. and engines are what 200$-300$???

I discovered a little trick; Subaru puts a VIN on their engine blocks... , Nathan also true with transmissioins. there is a rectangular tag on the left side about halfway back. has the vin printed on the tag, and if you remove the tag it's etched in to the case. this is for sure on 97's. not so sure about 95-96's. where do they put the vin on the engine??

in 95 -99 that location is for heated seats. is it possible that some one used a rear window defroster button to operate a heated driver seat?? also in 95-99 the switches were different for left and right, just a thought.

the best place to buy anything is the place you get the best price and service. duh!!!! but usually you need to do some business with someone befroe you get the best price. the internet has changed that a little, now everyone gets the same price. but still, staying in the same place for a long time, you'll be remembered / recognized. even if it's only as one of theose 'usmb people'. pick one and ask for their best price. internet is good, phones are good too. be prepared to place the order when you get a good price. no one believes you when you say you'll call back.

i'm sure you're not planning on reusing the belt next summer, so your real question is will the oil make the belt fail in the next 6 months. i'd bet not, but how miles on the belt and how many miles per month? i can't believe that they would make a belt that oil destroys radidly. just my guess.

yeah, but just wait until you do need to work on it in 50k 0r 60k miles. you'll be so out of practice you'll have to go online to one of thoses car forums and ask for help. i'm envious!!