johnceggleston

this is better than giving her a cell phone so she can call for help. i whish we had more of thses so i could fill up my tool box.

see that wasn't so bad ... and you thought it was going to hurt!!!

i'm out there looking for the leak. i park on a hill, top off the system, burp it , and let it run for a while. it appears to be coming out of the radiator lower left corner behind the fan shroud. so i remove the overflow bottle to see better. and what i find is it's dripping all the way down the left side from the radiator cap. 6$ later i'm good to go. am i lucky or what.?

my 97 obw has a small coolant leak. i noticed it today for the first time.i drove home got out of the car, talked to a friend, and noticed a spill on the pavement about the size of a papre plate. i chrecked the over flow tank... bone dry. waited a while and opened the radiator , it was full to the top and a gorgeous green. tomorrow i'll burp the system and look for the leak. history: i bought the car with 98k miles, dealer said it needs front axels and engine replace due to "bad wrist pin". well it really had torque bind (bad duty c), and piston slap. so i replaced the clutch pack/duty c and had the t-belt , front seals and water pump replaced. no problems for 10k miles. a great car... loud, but great. so maybe this time a leak is just a leak. it looks like it's coming from under the overflow tank, in that area. any ideas or suggestions. thanks, john

looks like it's just the adaptors, not the clamp? i don't know the hub master but all the picture shows is dics and cylinders, nothing else. and the name says "adaptors". nothing else. double check.

check the manufacture date on the bottom of the driver door (thats where it is on a 98) if it's been sitting around for a long time you might rethink. but with the warranty in place except rusting, how bad could it be??

ok i'll bite. it's not the molding on the doors but molding on the ouside of the car along the bottom edge betwen the wheels. it's official , i've never seen it. i've had 3 legacys, never seen it. is this something addedd to GTs but not leg L?? i thought it was metal frame???

go seafoam!!! let's hear it for mechanics who know their stuff.!!! i hope it works out for you on the easy side of things.

give me a better description of the part you need.

i think i fall into the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" category. do the maintenance, and service. but don't fix anything until it breaks. it could go 200k miles and never fail. plus, the price of the HG repair, is about the same as installing a used engine. drive it. make it work for those repair dollars!!!

i missed the part about what year it is? but it sounds like you are ready for that replacement tranny. have you got one handy?

i don't know about the fans, but i'd remove some / all of the plugs and see waht turns. do you have an engine?

found this service on ebay and wondered if you bought your car. apparently this is a $20 service to see actual pics of specific wrecked cars. if no pics, no pay. hope it helps. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Considering-buying-Salvage-Rebuilt-title-vehicle-truck_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ111102QQihZ014QQitemZ330030731096QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVWQQtcZphoto

is there a reassembly solution to prevent thjis in the future?? like anti-sieze?

when you have it on jacks, put it in 1st not d. rumor has it that in 1ST there is a 50/50 split of power. next i would try apply the brakes, this might make the awd kick in.

have you tried "car-part.com" ??? i have a shaft out of a 97 obw, but i may need part of it. i'm not very smart about drive shafts, but i know thw front u-joint is right next ot the support berring. are you sure it's the u-joint?? i don't even know if the ujoints are replaceable. search the salvage yards for a shaft. john

yes 50/50 means the clutch pack is not doing it's job, either the duty c or the clutch itself is bad. but since the clutch pack was replaced ..... i would ask... how long did you drive the car after the tyranny swap before the binding occurred ? is there any chance that the binding was there and you just didn't notice it. perhaps you were so excioted about your "new car" you weren't being very attentive? some one here has a great thread about the wiring being different on his tranny swap and he had binding. his duty c was not getting the power it needed. i asume that the connector looked the same , but if they moved the wires you may not be powering the duty c solenoid. i can't believe that the new parts have failed already. if they have there is anopther problem or a problem mechanic. just my opinion.

awesom, now i just need to buy a gen 1 suby so i can use this stuff. do they make it for gen 2 ???????? john

i'm sure you can but them, but why not just get a used shaft, or the at least the half with both u joints. why do you need the u joints? what's the car doing.?

if you haven't tried this yet, you should; if you have please disregard. put in the FWD fuse ( i don't even remember if it's an a/t) and see if the "grinding" goes away. binding is secondary. grinding is primary. if it always grinds, thewn you probably need a tranny. isolate the grinding first. it has the potential for being more serious. if the grinding goes away with the fuse in, then you look into the binding / clutch pack problem. of course i'm not an expert, just a suby driver.

it would be nice to know just what it takes to replace valve stem seals.

can't be the starter, i swapped a 96 2.2l a/t starter into a 97 2.5l a/t obw. i can see where a manual and auto might be different, but i don't knoww for sure.

is the the flywheel swap is due to the a/t - m/t difference or the 2.2 - 2.5 difference? fi the donor trans matched the outback trans, then the flywheel would be ok.? i'm a little confused. john

sounds a lot like seafoam.

so,... are you a folder or a scruncher???