johnceggleston

eacatly, if they don't do it , you'l spend 700 somewhere else. and you will do it sooner or later.

yeah the torque bind cost between 850 and 1000. the parts are expensive (new clutch pack) and there is the labor. the only way to save is to do it yourself or buy used parts, which is a huge crap shoot. regardless, the labor doesnot change. the timing belt is another story. new belt, seals, and water pump, (don't forget the oil pump o-ring) run between 675 and 800 (this is high) labor included. mine was 675. i did it at 98k miles because the waterpump was leaking. it would be nice if the pump always failed before the belt. oh well. it's very risky not doing the timing belt. if you don't know it was done at 105k. you are risking 700 against the 1200 to 1800 engine repair / replacement.but if it was done, you're spending 700 you don't need to. i'd try to find out more info aboput the service history. did you buy from a dealer or an individual? i don't know if a belt can go 140K without breaking , but maybe. do some research. good luck.

thanks, i'll try a used one. is there any chance i installed it wrong and caused the problem,?? i would hate to do it again with another part. john

i pulled the engine and trans without removing the axels from the wheels, but i lowered the whole cross member with wheels , steering knuckles and engine/trans as one unit. i had the car jacked up on stands. the wheels were very 'floppy' once i disconnected the struts. put the car on jack stands, unbolt the steering knuckles from struts, and cross member from frame and engine. remove the whole asembly, axels, cross member, knuckles and all while lifting the engine . block up the cross member off the floor just enough to roll out the engine hopist. hope this helps, good luck.

my rear diff pinion seal is leaking and i was going to replace it. but when i got to the pinion nut, i couldn't break it lose. not enough room under the car to swing the breaker bar. so i put it back together and decided to take it to the shop to be fixed. well, after i got it back togehter, i now have a slight vibration in drive line (feels like the rear) when i take off from a stop. start rolling, slight vibration (half second) then it smooths out and runs fine. 97 obw 115k miles. my first guess was the support bearing, maybe it's not tight, but i have no experience with anything like this so i don't know. any thoughts? i guess i should try the FWD fuse to see if that makes a differeence. thanks , john

i'd remove the rear section of the drive shaft between the support bearing and the diff. and put it back in awd. at least until you figure out the problem.

although everyone agrees if you swap a trans from a diff type subaru you need the dffferential as well, no one knows exactly what the differences are. i wonder what a 2.5 motor on a 2.2 trans / diff. will drive like.???? my guess is that the outback is geared lower, and legacy higher. putting a more powerful engine in a higher geared car could make for something interesting!!! are the diffs different??

here's one. if he still has it. FS auto awd trans http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62363

i think you said once before that how often it gets power determinse the power split , or something like that. as far as powering the duty c to turn off, that depends on whether the flow is restricted or increased with the power on. it's just the design of the valve (?). the gumming up senario of the 95s leads me to believe that less flow is more 4wd, duty c failure = more 4wd, so in a 90/10 split, there must be a fair amount of flow, and therefore a fair amount of power to the duty c. in a 50/50 split, less flow, less power (less often ?), and more 4wd. but apparently the valve is designed to open, more flow, with power, this would seem to protect the clutch pack / trans, with fluid flow and lubrication. could more fluid/flow allow the clutch to "slip" without damage, less flow "grab"? the burning up of the clutch caused by the constant grabing with the tension between front and rear, in a lees fluid condition? did i get this right.? john edit: ps: i don't really understand the mechanics of the clutch pack , but that's not really what this thread is about. don't let me distract you.

or, you need a new clutch pack, $950!!!!

givenb those numbers i'm not sure it's worth it. but if it drives better , and you enjoy it more, plus the mileage improvement (think of what you'll be doing for the environment)... the only question is when to change? how did the car improve when you put in the bosch? if it didn't improve then i wouldn't expect any now. you might askyourself if the car needs another more pressinf repair first. good luck. ps: the pay back will speed up as the price of gas goes up, but the mileage problem may be the ethanol not the sensor.

how much did you wast.. pay for it? what's oem cost? how many miles to the gals will it im prove, so how long to make back the difference? are you sure the oem will improve your mileage?

yep , you said that. now that alaskan oil is scarce... how fast do you commute. unless everyone is already passing you, try slowing down 5 mph. then see what happens.

you know, i've got a 95 leg sedan 2.2L and a 97obw 2.5L. and i prefer the 95 leg. i bought the 97 when the 95 tranny quit, i loved the look. but now that the 95 is running again, i like it better... except for one thing. it's low, the seat is low, the car is low and i'm getting older, lower is harder. so if i had it to do again, i'd but a legacy, and swap out the seat/s, wheels and struts. then i'd have the height of the outback, but the 2.2l engine. i can't imagine the 1 to 2 inch height difference would effect the drivability, but who knows. of course i haven't driven the leg wagon, just the out back. maybe soon. john

when i pulled o2 sensors out of a 96 leg wag 2.2L, they appeared to be the same part, bosch LHS24, but the rear had a 4 wire connector on it, the front just a 3 wire. but the rear only had 3 wires. i haven't done any research yet or seen oem sensors, but i put the rear one in my 97 obw and my CEL cleared up. it had been on for a good while. by the way, i think, 95 leg sed 2.2L only has one o2 sensor. corrections? john

apparently that transmission was used in a 93 legacy, 2.0L in japan and russia?? looks like it might be jdm. http://yosino.ru/motors.htm http://groups.yahoo.co.jp/group/TAS-net/messages/148?expand=1 http://www.google.com/search?q=tz102zsaaa+&hl=en&lr=&as_qdr=all&filter=0

search car-part.com for impreza trans and hopefully you'll find one with the model number you have. then search for differentials for that model. a lot of work i know, but it could work. some one near charlottesville, va was selling an impreza trans, maybe he has the diff too. check the for sale section. good luck, john. look here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62363&highlight=tran%2A

i think po420 is a cat converter code. in my 97 obw i remember it as a secondary o2 sensor circuit. i changed the o2 sensor and it seems ok. i don't have many miles on it though. try searching po420 and/or p0420 and you should have plenty to read.

your mom is smart, and you're good to remember too!!! let's here it for moms!!!

has any one tried removing the cross bars but leaving the side rails to see if this makes a difference?? might be easy to store the cross bars in the back and mount them when needed. john

it's a direct swap. and if you pull the spring / strut as a unit you don't need the spring compressor. what are you going to do about wheels & tires? stay with 14" or step up to 15" 205/70r/15. basically you're making it an outback without the differential.

i'm not sure the correct tool is going to work now that you have a broken drill bit in there. it may, but it was designed to drive a pin that was unobstructed. you may have to drill.

i pulled the fuel pump / sending unit out of mine from behind back seat, and it looked to me as though the fill tube extended through the wall of the tank. my guess would be that the filler is welded to the tank wall. but that's a guess. the top end of the filler tube mounts on the inside of the rear quartes panel, and there is a section of flexible tubing, w/clamps,connecting it to the rest of the filler tube. i wonder why you haven't gotten a CEL with a hole in your tank. from others, it sounds like you could get a light if you leave the cap off.

there's nothing like a j trap on the tank, but i think i get what you mean. every time you fill up, it leaks the same amount, then stops. the leak is either in the filler tube or the tank. ( i guess it could be in the fuel lines/ vapor lines). so it either leaks from the filler tube which is in the top of the tank or the tank it self. if it's the filler neck/tube it going to leak while filling or as long as ther is fuel there. if it's the tank, it's going to leak as long as the tank is that full. once the level goes down, it won't leak. my guess is the filler. that's the only "leak" i've heard about here. but it could be something eles. the bad news is ... you have to pull the differential to remove the gas tank. i'd try running with just a half a tank for a while t otry and locate the leak. another thought, and if this is dangerous some one tell me... use the out put of a vacuum cleaner to blow air into the tank opening. use smoething to help seal around VC hose and the fill opening. then listen for the hissing of escaping air. good luck!!

not to hijack the thread, but how does the gas tank transfer gas from one side to the other. haynes mentioned a 'jet pump'. is that it and how does it work. i was checking out the sending units and didn't see any side to side connection. john