johnceggleston

too bad they don't allow 'signatures' on this site any more, nippers could be " First make sure all your tires match and are inflated the same." what, he types this line at least once a week!!

at low speeds, 5 to 15 mph i have a wobble in my steering wheel. accelerating and braking, less so breaking. as i speed up it's less noticeable, but probably still there. i have a 96 leg wagon donor car, and i thought i would replace the front wheel parts, knuckle, axel, hub, etc., one at a time to see if i could identify and elimnate the wobble. question , can i remove the whole front wheel assembly, crossmember, axels, steering rack and all and leave the engine "hanging" from the dog bone angle support?? or supported by a jack stand?? it might be quicker just to swap it all (not the struts). i wouldn't know what part was bad, but it might save time. thanks , john

the maintenance schedule at cars 101.com says to inspect youe trans fluid @ 30k and 90k miles. i believe at the very least i would change the filter then. why would you change the fluid and not the filter.?? http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html

i don't think the speedometer is an issue, it's just the overlay with km instead of miles. the fuel consumption?? is there a read out in gals? the odometer is the hard one. why notjust get a used canadian instrument cluster from a salvage yard.

that would make sense, left and right handed, and different front and rear since the disc & knuckles are different.

are the sensors left and right? front and rear? or all interchangeable??

there's a plug on the right side just above right front corner of the pan. it reminds me of a freeze plug on my old chevy pick up v8. this plug is held in by a c-clip / cir clip?? i don't know if you can see it or not but it's worth a look. good luck,

front or rear or all 4? try swapping the tires onto the 95 to se if they clear. then you'll know. my guess is you'll need smaller tires.

try "car-part.com".

charge a small copyright fee, when the ask for you by name!!!!!

my trans has a slight leak, oily dirt, on the side of the case where the wire harness enters the housing. any solutions / seals or don't worry about it?? thanks john

you have to remove the inside door panel, ther are a couple of screws , one at door opener, one behind button below grab handle. then it up snaps across the bottom. you have to slowly work it off the opener and up off of the door it self. it may help to remove the triangle cover hiding mirror mounting screws. disconnect the window switch wiring. now the fabric panel will be obvious.

the trans pan from the donor car has a leak and it's running down and towards the front. i assume it's because of the angle of the car on jack stands. is it easier to address the pan leak out of the car or in the car? how vulnerable is the pan, can it be easily damaged while moving it around the shop or installing it?? what is RTV?? thanks, john

when they went with the new trans in late? 99, they new has screw on filter. TZ1A2ZJEAA = 99 legacy 2.5L GT (all?) TZ1A2ZJEBA = 99 obw 2.5 (late) i've seen it. earlier 99 obw trans were equal to 98 trans = tz102z2dba and very similar to the 97 trans = tz102z2cba i've seen it too. 98 gt may be same or diff, i don't know. it's not surprising that if you saw a 99 trans with screw on filter you would assume that all 99 had them, even if you worked at a stealership. check your trans model nimber under the hood.

almost ant legacy seat will bolt right in, some seats will have height adjustments, check the junkyards, get leather fronts.

this is a long thread and i didn't read it from the beginning, so if i repeat , please frogive me . if you search, you can find a thread on how to diagnose piston slap. it has to do with shorting out the spark to the suspect cylinders, if the sound goes away , it's slap. if not then it's something else, rod, wrist pin, etc.

what's the since in having kids if you don't make them work???? "jounior hand me that shotgun, honey, get me another beer."

bump

this is a guess so don't rely on it. i don't think they changed the 2.5 until 2000, so my guess would be dohc. but i don't own a 99, mines a 97. you need to talk to a 99 owner. or call the dealer. maybe you could go to "autozone.com" put in 99 forester and search for a timing belt part number. then search the same part for other years. there is going to be a difference between single and double. if your part number works on a 97 then it's double . not perfect but ....

my windows move faster if i'm only closing one at a time. that would lead me to believe that some of the slowness is due to the electric power. i wonder if you could run an extra feed wire for the driver window and leave the other 3 on the existing circuit??

especially in 95, you can use the bumper. the out back started as a legacy "trim" , like l, ls, lsi or brighton. just a guess, but you can probaly swap parts between the 2 still.

of course there's plenty of fluid!!

put a gal of gas in a gas canin the trunk. drive the car till it hits empty, then drive it till the light comes on or it quits. put in the 1 gal. check the light. then fill up with gas. if you don't want ot be on the road when it runs out, let it idle in the drive way. on the hiway my light comes on around 330. i avg. 25 mpg a little better on the hiway. if you're getting 32 mpg on a 15 gal tank, you can go 32mpg X 14gal = 448 miles and still have a gal left. try driving 350 miles befroe fill up.

i don't think so. the connectors are different. i'll count the wires in the connector, but i can't imagine they changed the connector without a reason; that being more wires / more sensors or solenoids.

i have 2 legacys 95 sedan, 97obw. both hit empty long before the fuel light comes on. the tank holds 15.9 gals. if you're only pumping 12 gals you've got fuel left. my light comes on around 14.2 gals gone.