johnceggleston

to quote someone much smarter than i , the CEL means something isn't quite right; :(you should go a auto parts store (autozone) and have the codes read. then you'll know some thing. a flashijng CEL means stop the car and send lassie for help. the codes will tell you whats wrong, then maybe some one can give you a hint for the fix. good luck, john

it sound like it's only one area/cylinder. one of the reasons i kept it and looked for a donor car was that i had just spent 600 on t-belt, front seals and water pump. i hope , but don't know, if the o ring? on the oil pump was done. when the tranny goes in so does the rear seal. thanks for the input, john

thanks, i'll give it a try. john

my 95 leg 2.2l has been sitting for a year waiting for a a/t. i started the car occasionally until the battery died. now i find that there is a ticking noise when i start it up. checked and added oil, still there. i can't drive it untiol i get the trans replaced but i'm worried that the engine is hurt. suggestions on what product to use to help clean / correct my engine noise. i hear that changing the oil often will slowly clean the engine. is there something else that will help, seafoam perhaps. that's all the rage here , but seems complicated. thanks,john

that was my guess but i couldn't think through the power on /off to the solenoid deal. i've seen the park lock on a 97 a/t and it's pretty simple. it's in the awd clutch housing on the rear end of the trans. besides i don't remember jacking with out the e-break on. i guess rear disc would be a reason.

thanks for the update, let us know. gas filler is not a part i would have thought of selling if parting out a car. for those of you willing to run with the cel on, how do you know when a new problem occurs??

more info, was one wheel up or both rear? open differentials with both wheels up, one will spin one way and the other will spin in reverse. i don't know if only one wheel up. i don't know if the awd clutch sending power to the rear is locked or loose when power is off.

the rear pinion seal needs to be torqued to 'existing' inch pounds. which means you have to measure the torque before dismantling it. is the front diff axel seal similar?>

i've noticed a similar condition, but since the tach didn't flutter, i figured it was a "slow to down shift" problem. does that change your thoughts any. yes my plugs and wires are just as old and need to be cganged, but i was just wondering. john

rumor has it that if you disconnect the battery cable for about 30 minutes the computer will clear any stored codes, then when your cel comes on you know it's for a current problem. however , i would record the stored codes before clearing them. so you will have some history.

i'm not real sure how you would go about doing it , but if you could trick the computer into thinking the sensor was ok by wiring in the correct size resistor, then you could systematicly eliminate each component in question. you'd need to know the correct resistance of each sensor, it may be that many are the same. resistors are cheap.

what kind of plugs are you using??

thanks for the info. john

don't forget the rear seal.

slightly off topic, i'm getting ready to pull a 96 2.2l engine (w/125k) which i was going to hang on to in case my 97obw 2.5 w/ piston slap went head gasket bad. (i need the 96 4eat trans and most of the interior for my son's 95 leg sed w/ 167k miles.) what is the right way to store an engine? or would it be better to sell it and buy one when and if i need it ? thanks, john

i was asking about pulling a trans from a donor car a few weeks ago, and someone replied that if you are pulling both engine and trasmission, pull them together from the top. much less work. they come out as a unit.

for what it's worth my 90 nissan pickup uses the same ignition switch as subaru (95-97 anyway). i had intermitten trouble with my pickup until it became constant. i think it was the lock out / saftey switch on the clutch pedal, but never confirmed it. i ran a new wire from the ignition wiring in the steering column to the starter and i've had no problem since, (3 years). and yes i have turned the key with the truck in gear and the clutch out and it does jump. but i only do it every now and then, and i always use the hand break. always. good luck, john

you left off the brighton... basic car, no power options.

i thought outbacks had a 1000 lbs. max trailer weight. why the need for a class II hitch?

never mind

bought a 97 obw last year, with a subaru alarm system. i just replaced the battery and when ii went to start the car, the alarm sounded and it won't start. the car didn't come with any remotes... what do i do? please help!! i'm going out of town this afternoon. thanks, john

for those of us who live in the mountains.... park the car nose up the hill. it can't hurt. then burp. did you say if it was 2.2 or 2.5L?

there's a street in richmond ,va where you can park it. the fall is the best time of year, the new college students aren't used to the trafic circle and when it rains, on a saturday night...wham!!! but then your insurance would go up.

check you oil level, when the 2.2s start to leak/ burn oil, you can get some tapping in between oil changes.

i didn't know the vc on the manual was something you could remove?