johnceggleston

i'd ask to see the receipt, just to see if the water pump and seals were done. then you know.

my creative solution was to install used parts off a trans that i knew didn't have TB. the problem here is how do you know unless you have driven the car. even then it cost about 300 labor.

i would think the opposite is true. bad tires would cause some one to press you harder on lowering the price, but i doubt the quality of the tire, except for high performace tires on a high performance car,would make a difference. i would think most buyers will run what are on the car until they do not serve any more. eithre worn out or in the case of cheap tires, don't perform well, ride rough or something. but when you get right down to it, the real lost money is in the 'mount & balance'. that cost is the same no matter what you put on the car.

the only thing i would caution you on, especially if you haven't owned an awd or 4wd car is, the torque bind issue. if the a/trans fluid hasn't been changed on time (60k miles) then it has the potential to have torque bind. drive the car at slow speeds in very tight circles. very tight. if it drives fine then no problem. if it jumps , bucks or feels like it is driving over top of the front wheels, then you might have a problem. when i bought my 95 i was new to awd/4wd and didn't recognize the problem. i thought all awd cars did this. as mentioned before, this falls under the herading of "regular maintance". if the car was cared for then it probably is ok. when you own the car change the a/t fluid regularly. but if you are new to awd, it's worth looking for. good luck, john

i'm not a hitch expert, but i thought a 2" receiver was more than a class 1 hitch. i thought class 1 was a 1+1/4" recevier. some one correct me ??

don't have the rear rotors turned. unless i'm mistaken, they are unvented, (a single dics instead of what looks like 2 disc seperated by little walls, therefore it looks vented). the rears don't usuallly turn out well. the fronts you can turn with good success. i repeat nippers question, what are the brakes doing that make you think they need to be replaced. pads wear out and need to be raplaced like tires, but rotors .... how many miles are you driving each year?? if they are not warped, why mess with them. worst case is you wear out your new pads too fast. they either stop you or they don't. has any one seen a brake rotor fail?? i haven't but then i've only been driving for 35 years.

the carpet in both the 95 and 96 leg had the carpet moulded for a box, on both sides, driver and passenger. but the 95 has the unit on pass side the 96 has neither. my guess is they made the carpet for left and right hand drive, and never changed it when they moved the unit. thus saving money on redesign and retooling. go subaru. plus they got to use up all those carpets they have lying around. still no word on what it is. my seats are back in , i'm not going to pull it just to look for a part number.

so, let get this right, i take my car to the shop, geat an oilchange, rrotate the tires maybe an alignment. they total the bill and then addon a disposal fee. i change my own oil and take it to the parts house and they have to take it for free. what's wrong with this picture?????

the cost of a clutch replacement once it fails only goes up by the price of the tow. and if you get another year out while waiting, you 've saved a bunch. on the other hand, if the engine is out, go ahead. but my guess is you won't save any just because you combine the work. IMHO they still look both jobs up in the book and then add them together. only a very good mechanic will discount one price because you're already paying fir ir on the other. john

i got the used 96 a/trans in my 95 leg, and i'm wanting to prevent TB. is there such a thing as "high detergent" trans fluid or should i just rely on more frequent changing of the fluid.?? will a 3k mile change help remove old gunk, then schedule 30/40k changes ? john

if you don't know what a rack is you may not know the smell of trans fluid. but the smeel of a torn cv boot can be distinctive. check on the passenger side under the hood, look for black stuff on the front edge of the exhaust. also check for a torn cv boot. the black accordion-like thing on the axel shaft, between the side of the trans and the wheel. when the boot tears, grease is thrown onto the exhaust and it burns/smells. good luck.

me too?? my '95 leg has one but my donor '96 leg does not. what ever it is they moved or changed it. could it be abs?? i know they changed that system along that time.

if the trans is making noise, in addition to the bucking (torque bind), then i'd go used. if it's just TB (on auto)then maybe a repair. automatic or manual??

i have a drive shaft from a 96 legacy wagon, 2.2L, auto, 125k miles. it's sitting witing to go. let me know. john

does it run?? why are you parting it out. whats, the body like? any good parts. try listing over on "classsified : for sale" parting out 91 legacy for parts. good luck , john

if it's a 91, then it's not a 2.5, probably a 2.2L. maybe something smaller. in my humble opinion, the market for a 2.2L with 184k miles is limited. it still has lots of life , but for the money you can find one with 125k miles and be lots further ahead. good luck. the whole car my have more value, again whats the year, make, model, trans, and miles.????

please list eng. size, 2.2L vs. 2,5L; year, miles, and trans, FWD or AWD. also reason for sale. thanks, john

some may depend on where in va, norther va may be different. but generally , va doesn't have the rust problems that new england does. it does snow here but not every week, usually 3 or 4 times a winter. so i wouldn't be too concerned. on the other hand if they lived in va and commuted to ny... well that could be different. but still, i don't see rust on va cars/subarus. john

whae gas prices started going up last fall, i stared filling up mid point in my 200 mile commute each week. gas was cheaper on the road than it was in the big city. if filled up at home , got on the hiway , drove 100 miles , and filled up again i got 32mpg @ 65-70 mph. 97obw a/t. that's great. but driving 100+ miles each week around town brings my average mpg down to 25. i'm happy with that as well. i'm impressed with the gas mileage number for new cars, they're all 30+. how do they do that and can we do it to a 10 yera old car.??? john

whae gas prices started going up last fall, i stared filling up mid point in my 200 mile commute each week. gas was cheaper on the road than it was in the big city. if filled up at home , got on the hiway , drove 100 miles , and filled up again i got 32mpg @ 65-70 mph. 97obw a/t. that's great. but driving 100+ miles each week around town brings my average mpg down to 25. i'm happy with that as well. i'm impressed with the gas mileage number for new cars, they're all 30+. how do they do that and can we do it to a 10 yera old car.??? john

i have a 95 sedan with "a little bit" of torque bind. i drove it 90k miles before the trans die. (rear seal pop at the drive shaft , then reverse went.) mine only bound up when the steering wheel was locked. of course that does not mean it didn't do it all the time, just i didn't feel it. this is just a guess, but i wonder if the 'little bit' is a symptom of the bad solenoid valve seat getting gummed up, which was corrected in 96/97? poor fluid flow/pressure limiting the clutch pack. these are the only 2 times i've heard of the 'little bit' of TB. my 97 obw had it bad when the duty c failed. can you diagnose the cause of the TB by how sever it is? john

since you can't drive it without the seat, i'd either practice with the passenger seat or one from a junker. i saw a late model legacy at the salvage yard and it appears to bolt on the same as the mid 90's. i'd practice with changing the legs (support/mounting brackets). cutting them off and extending them. if you find a solution then i'd look at swapping the seat cushions. if you have electric or heated seats then you probably need to find the exact match. or you could just drive it a few months and get used to it..

since 2 wires and 2 plugs are different, it may be evicence of the pass. side head gasket repair. i think that's the side that usually goes. at 90 k miles you are soon due a timing belt, some of your oil leaks may be slowed with new front seals.

as i have read here over the past 6 months, there are 2 things in the trans that can cause tourque bind. 1. duty c solenoid - electric failure or gummed up electric failure you had to pull and replace the sol. ( don't let them trick you into thinking that the clutchplates are bad too. matbe, maybe not.) trannys around 95 had the tendancy to gum up the duty c valve seat. this was corrected in 96/97. changing the trans fluid could usually help. 2. clutch plates - gummed up? or welded together (not sure) running long term with torque bind caused by gummed plates or duty c, i think, could lead to welded plates. fluid change could help gumming, but only replacement parts can help welded plates. $850-1000. i spent $275 labor putting in a used clutch pack, duty c included. ( i knew the trans, no TB) if you go this way i suggest a new duty c in the process. you would hate to have a duty c failure 6 months after replacing the clutch pack. ($275 labor again) good luck.

ok... i have my armor on, so hear goes. i like subarus, early 90's, ok. late 90's better. but i don't know what i'll do when those are to hard to come by and repair. so far i'm not impressed with the subarus of the new century. too many changes away from reliability toward ... i don't know, power? style?, luxury? some one very smart once said, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"!!! on the other hand, only a suuby owner would have ever believed that subaru would be considered in the running with honda or toyota. those 2 have been top of the heap for a long time, along with nissan. maybe it's not subaru, maybe it's corporations and stockholders. i have a 90 nissan pickup with 175k miles and the original clutch; new radiator, but original clutch. do those things have timming belts???