johnceggleston

the carpet in both the 95 and 96 leg had the carpet moulded for a box, on both sides, driver and passenger. but the 95 has the unit on pass side the 96 has neither. my guess is they made the carpet for left and right hand drive, and never changed it when they moved the unit. thus saving money on redesign and retooling. go subaru. plus they got to use up all those carpets they have lying around. still no word on what it is. my seats are back in , i'm not going to pull it just to look for a part number.

so, let get this right, i take my car to the shop, geat an oilchange, rrotate the tires maybe an alignment. they total the bill and then addon a disposal fee. i change my own oil and take it to the parts house and they have to take it for free. what's wrong with this picture?????

the cost of a clutch replacement once it fails only goes up by the price of the tow. and if you get another year out while waiting, you 've saved a bunch. on the other hand, if the engine is out, go ahead. but my guess is you won't save any just because you combine the work. IMHO they still look both jobs up in the book and then add them together. only a very good mechanic will discount one price because you're already paying fir ir on the other. john

i got the used 96 a/trans in my 95 leg, and i'm wanting to prevent TB. is there such a thing as "high detergent" trans fluid or should i just rely on more frequent changing of the fluid.?? will a 3k mile change help remove old gunk, then schedule 30/40k changes ? john

if you don't know what a rack is you may not know the smell of trans fluid. but the smeel of a torn cv boot can be distinctive. check on the passenger side under the hood, look for black stuff on the front edge of the exhaust. also check for a torn cv boot. the black accordion-like thing on the axel shaft, between the side of the trans and the wheel. when the boot tears, grease is thrown onto the exhaust and it burns/smells. good luck.

me too?? my '95 leg has one but my donor '96 leg does not. what ever it is they moved or changed it. could it be abs?? i know they changed that system along that time.

if the trans is making noise, in addition to the bucking (torque bind), then i'd go used. if it's just TB (on auto)then maybe a repair. automatic or manual??

i have a drive shaft from a 96 legacy wagon, 2.2L, auto, 125k miles. it's sitting witing to go. let me know. john

does it run?? why are you parting it out. whats, the body like? any good parts. try listing over on "classsified : for sale" parting out 91 legacy for parts. good luck , john

if it's a 91, then it's not a 2.5, probably a 2.2L. maybe something smaller. in my humble opinion, the market for a 2.2L with 184k miles is limited. it still has lots of life , but for the money you can find one with 125k miles and be lots further ahead. good luck. the whole car my have more value, again whats the year, make, model, trans, and miles.????

please list eng. size, 2.2L vs. 2,5L; year, miles, and trans, FWD or AWD. also reason for sale. thanks, john

some may depend on where in va, norther va may be different. but generally , va doesn't have the rust problems that new england does. it does snow here but not every week, usually 3 or 4 times a winter. so i wouldn't be too concerned. on the other hand if they lived in va and commuted to ny... well that could be different. but still, i don't see rust on va cars/subarus. john

whae gas prices started going up last fall, i stared filling up mid point in my 200 mile commute each week. gas was cheaper on the road than it was in the big city. if filled up at home , got on the hiway , drove 100 miles , and filled up again i got 32mpg @ 65-70 mph. 97obw a/t. that's great. but driving 100+ miles each week around town brings my average mpg down to 25. i'm happy with that as well. i'm impressed with the gas mileage number for new cars, they're all 30+. how do they do that and can we do it to a 10 yera old car.??? john

whae gas prices started going up last fall, i stared filling up mid point in my 200 mile commute each week. gas was cheaper on the road than it was in the big city. if filled up at home , got on the hiway , drove 100 miles , and filled up again i got 32mpg @ 65-70 mph. 97obw a/t. that's great. but driving 100+ miles each week around town brings my average mpg down to 25. i'm happy with that as well. i'm impressed with the gas mileage number for new cars, they're all 30+. how do they do that and can we do it to a 10 yera old car.??? john

i have a 95 sedan with "a little bit" of torque bind. i drove it 90k miles before the trans die. (rear seal pop at the drive shaft , then reverse went.) mine only bound up when the steering wheel was locked. of course that does not mean it didn't do it all the time, just i didn't feel it. this is just a guess, but i wonder if the 'little bit' is a symptom of the bad solenoid valve seat getting gummed up, which was corrected in 96/97? poor fluid flow/pressure limiting the clutch pack. these are the only 2 times i've heard of the 'little bit' of TB. my 97 obw had it bad when the duty c failed. can you diagnose the cause of the TB by how sever it is? john

since you can't drive it without the seat, i'd either practice with the passenger seat or one from a junker. i saw a late model legacy at the salvage yard and it appears to bolt on the same as the mid 90's. i'd practice with changing the legs (support/mounting brackets). cutting them off and extending them. if you find a solution then i'd look at swapping the seat cushions. if you have electric or heated seats then you probably need to find the exact match. or you could just drive it a few months and get used to it..

since 2 wires and 2 plugs are different, it may be evicence of the pass. side head gasket repair. i think that's the side that usually goes. at 90 k miles you are soon due a timing belt, some of your oil leaks may be slowed with new front seals.

as i have read here over the past 6 months, there are 2 things in the trans that can cause tourque bind. 1. duty c solenoid - electric failure or gummed up electric failure you had to pull and replace the sol. ( don't let them trick you into thinking that the clutchplates are bad too. matbe, maybe not.) trannys around 95 had the tendancy to gum up the duty c valve seat. this was corrected in 96/97. changing the trans fluid could usually help. 2. clutch plates - gummed up? or welded together (not sure) running long term with torque bind caused by gummed plates or duty c, i think, could lead to welded plates. fluid change could help gumming, but only replacement parts can help welded plates. $850-1000. i spent $275 labor putting in a used clutch pack, duty c included. ( i knew the trans, no TB) if you go this way i suggest a new duty c in the process. you would hate to have a duty c failure 6 months after replacing the clutch pack. ($275 labor again) good luck.

ok... i have my armor on, so hear goes. i like subarus, early 90's, ok. late 90's better. but i don't know what i'll do when those are to hard to come by and repair. so far i'm not impressed with the subarus of the new century. too many changes away from reliability toward ... i don't know, power? style?, luxury? some one very smart once said, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"!!! on the other hand, only a suuby owner would have ever believed that subaru would be considered in the running with honda or toyota. those 2 have been top of the heap for a long time, along with nissan. maybe it's not subaru, maybe it's corporations and stockholders. i have a 90 nissan pickup with 175k miles and the original clutch; new radiator, but original clutch. do those things have timming belts???

so.. how many beers does it take to burp a subaru driver???

i think the operative words are "last ditch"!!! there's no way this can work. why wouldn't subaru say "use this, it works". that would be lots cheaper than new gaskets.!!

my 95 leg l sedan had minor TB for 90k miles, i didn't know it was bad. i'd never owned a 4wd and thought it was standard... so i just didn''t turn that sharpand did'nt over stress the trans. but the trans finally failed. i didn't even know enough to take it to a shop!!! "poor dumb thing" i wonder if the changes they made in the mid 96 trans (?) eliminated this 'little bit' of TB? if it were my car, knowing what i do now, i'd plan on buying a used 97 trans, or atleast a used 97 clutch pack and have it on hand when needed.

question: when the fwd light is on, is the torque bind cured? is it truley in fwd and no TB? when you say all is working as it should , what does that mean? no temp light at start up? awd works? no TB? from your description i read that all symptoms come and go as wire are wiggled. am i mis-reading this?

all of that is absolutely correct. but i thought he said he got the FWD to come on afterr messing with wiring under the dash. it just sounded like he did a poor job of installing some modifications and they failed. FWD didn't work, now it does. i don't mean to be contradictory, i only know what i read here and what i have had to fixon my car. but it sounded like things changed from his original description of the problem.

slow down ... if the FWD light came on then it's not the duty c sol. (assuming the torque bind goes away.) you must have a wiring problem. didn't you report that your awd-all-the-time switch failed last week?? now you have removed it. recheck your wiring. unless you drove "locked" in 4wd for a while, you shouldn't have hurt your awd clutch pack. recheck your wiring!!!!!