johnceggleston

if it only leaks after you fill up. don't fill up, just put in 3/4 tank.

not very many of us have a lot of experience dealinf with insurance companies. that being said, my neighbor's chrysler 300 was run into by a little old lady. he took it upon himself to find an identical replacement car, make, model, year, miles, color, and options. he then told the insurance co. that this was the value of his car. of course they said it wasn't their job to replace his car... he agreed, but he showed them an equal ( or better) car for sale to "prove" the value of his car. so... don't take their first offer. make them work for it. you only get one chance. once you take thje check, you're done. you should do their homework for them. regardless if you buy back the car, you should have the money to start over. just my $.02 worth.

if it makes noise with the clutch in matbe it's the throw out bearing. and haynes says to check the door lock relays under the dash first!! bad relay or loose connect may be the problem. 2 doors not locking is not an "in the door" problem in IMHO.

where does the infamous "o-ring" i've heard so much about, go. is it large or small.

i'm not seeing a difference!! did i miss something?

but they do break. i bought my 95 leg 2.2L sed, 73k miles, with a brokren sway bar. order one from car-part.com and i was goo \d to go.

i completely removed the exhaust fro m a 96 leg 2.2L wagon 125k miles. i was going after the transmission. at the heads, none of the 4 nuts was a problem, but on both sides, one nut came off and one stud came out. i don't remember if both nuts were front or rear, but i do rememeber one nut and one stud on each side. at the catalytic connection, these were spring loaded (i think, i know the next connection was) and both came apart ok. use a penetrating oil, the more the better. i had no problems with any of my exhaust bolts. i think the leakiness of the engines helps in this area. john

that was my first thought. what's the car doing?? why did you check the codes in the first place? did the light come on or did you notice a difference in how it runs / drives? leave the battery cable off over night, run the car for a day and then check the codes. anything that comes up then will be current.

what a great car!! the outback pluses, height, look, etc. but the 2.2L engine. what a deal!!

so pin 6 is for the abs system. how about pins 1-5??

someone wrote a few weks ago that there were 2 type of ac units in lagacys (i may have forgotten the details) and replacement parts have to match the make and model of AC in the car. am i remembering correctly?

do you remember if the yellows were front, rear, left or right????

no problem pulling the axel/hub out? i've heard stories about have to beat on them.

so let's review, manual trans, tow with all 4 on the ground, never 2 up & 2 down or 2 rear down, drive shaft disconnected. auto trans, tow only with all 4 up, never all 4 down or 2 rear down, drive shaft disconnected.

are you sure your reader is good???

i haven't replaced one but i've taken them apart. it's easy... one bolt, unthread it. what's wrong with your brakes?/?

unbelievable... you are in the cat bird seat!!!!!! pick the one you think runs, drives, feels better. go and work the best deal you can. work it hard, try and get it for nothing!!!! tell him there's another in better condition for less. if you can't get the one you want.... go buy the other. i prefer legacy, better engine, you can drive it 100k without problems. by then you'll be ready to move up to a 95!!!!!! truth be told, i don't know loyales. john

also, some of the money yuo save could be spent going to texas or fla. to pick your new rust free car. good luck.

burn marks you can't do much about but replace, yes the cloth panel comes out after you remove the door panel. and on the sedans, the rear seat bottom, (top too for that matter) is extruded formed foam, covered by the cloth. almost no metal in them. i just had mine out, i was giong to replace, but instead, i hosed them down, scrubbed them , hosed them and then stood them up to drip dry. you wouldn't beleive the "cola" that came pouring out of them. they look pretty good now.

i'd ask to see the receipt, just to see if the water pump and seals were done. then you know.

my creative solution was to install used parts off a trans that i knew didn't have TB. the problem here is how do you know unless you have driven the car. even then it cost about 300 labor.

i would think the opposite is true. bad tires would cause some one to press you harder on lowering the price, but i doubt the quality of the tire, except for high performace tires on a high performance car,would make a difference. i would think most buyers will run what are on the car until they do not serve any more. eithre worn out or in the case of cheap tires, don't perform well, ride rough or something. but when you get right down to it, the real lost money is in the 'mount & balance'. that cost is the same no matter what you put on the car.

the only thing i would caution you on, especially if you haven't owned an awd or 4wd car is, the torque bind issue. if the a/trans fluid hasn't been changed on time (60k miles) then it has the potential to have torque bind. drive the car at slow speeds in very tight circles. very tight. if it drives fine then no problem. if it jumps , bucks or feels like it is driving over top of the front wheels, then you might have a problem. when i bought my 95 i was new to awd/4wd and didn't recognize the problem. i thought all awd cars did this. as mentioned before, this falls under the herading of "regular maintance". if the car was cared for then it probably is ok. when you own the car change the a/t fluid regularly. but if you are new to awd, it's worth looking for. good luck, john

i'm not a hitch expert, but i thought a 2" receiver was more than a class 1 hitch. i thought class 1 was a 1+1/4" recevier. some one correct me ??

don't have the rear rotors turned. unless i'm mistaken, they are unvented, (a single dics instead of what looks like 2 disc seperated by little walls, therefore it looks vented). the rears don't usuallly turn out well. the fronts you can turn with good success. i repeat nippers question, what are the brakes doing that make you think they need to be replaced. pads wear out and need to be raplaced like tires, but rotors .... how many miles are you driving each year?? if they are not warped, why mess with them. worst case is you wear out your new pads too fast. they either stop you or they don't. has any one seen a brake rotor fail?? i haven't but then i've only been driving for 35 years.