johnceggleston

i can see where heat cause eletric parts to break down. i wonder if old a/t fluid could casue higher temps and contribute to duty c failure.?

first let me say i don't know anywhere near as much as most of you. 0% power to the duty c creates locked 4WD 100% power to the duty c creates FWD ecu control usually creates 90% front/ 10% rear, and it adjust it as needed. well i don't see the difference between 90% and 100% being so great to garrantee damage to anything. of course i have heard that the duty c works on cycles of electricty, not constant electricty with reduced voltage. and the gamble is $50 duty c, and $300 labor ..... or $900 clutch pack. the duty c in my 97 obw was bad when i bought it with 98k miles. no way to tell why. but since the tires all match and there weren't modifications, i would just say some parts fail sooner than others. this is just my logic and $.02 worth. john

that is annoying. that's almost enough to make you clip the seatbelt while not in the seat and then sitting on top of it. people used to do that in the 70's. seatbelts were knida new and well .....

i thought it was a 2 wire connector under the seat near the front. if the car doesn't know you're sitting in it, it won't sound the alarm.

i love it, and the storage under the flat bed too. i wonder what the load capacity is?

i have a CEL for "misfire #4" i bought plugs and wires, they go in tomorrow. is there a fuse i can pull to clear clear the CEL on my 97 obw or do i still need to disconnect thje battery?? thanlks john

go to an auto parts web site and search for o2 sensors for both the '05 and the '02. if they are the same and they maybe, can you get the cat for less than the new sensor? if its cheaper , and the sensors are compatible. get the used cat, swap the sensor and then decide what to do with the cat, sell swap or scrap.

how many miles on it ? a/t or man? i guess it's a/t. make sure the tires match and are properly inflated. (there i said it, now nipper can rest his back.) welcome to the club, they're great cars.

it will be much less work / headache if you use the same year and model. if you search there's a thread about a similar swap and he had to change the wiring. so the standard is, same year make and model, if not, at least get the tcu if not the differential. i just put a 96 leg wagon 2.2L a/t into a 95 leg sedan 2.2L. no problems. but they were real close, and i have the whole car. 90 to 98 is a long shot. don't spend the money. find a pre 95 a/t. search the for sale section.

now go buy 2 used rims, and have the old tires mounted. then, when you've run the new ones 10k miles , rotate in the 2 spare wheels with tires. now 6 tires are working. if you buy 4 rims, you'll have a snow tire set after you wear out these 6 tires. my wife used to detsroy 1 tire a year on the mini van. good thing it wasn't awd.

how big is the bolt head? how about a pipe wrench? hack saw the head off. drill it out and use an easy out. i guess the first question should be do you have electricity??? sawzall !!!

first the exhaust has to be cold, not hot. spray ti wit hpenetrating oil and let it sit. unplug the wires, this was pretty hard on the rear one on my 97obw. the unscrewing isint bad if you soak it. just don't break it.

i have a shift cable from a 96 leg 2.2 wagon if you need it. send me a pm with zip code. .

i don't know how hard it is to remove, but you will still have a 2 tone paint job every where except the new fender. the decal is inbetween the paint up top and gray down below. go to macco and have them paint the fender to match w/ decal/trim. how much could it cost. they do the whole car for 400$.

how does that work? are you talking about the tz102 model number or the other number on the trans. from one of the parts supplier web sites, first subaru i think, i found that all 96-99 a/t 2.5L leg / outback have the same rear diff. but i have no idea what that is. this seems to be one of the most mysterious areas of subaru info. my manual doen't even mention the final drive. hopefully the FSM does.

call a body shop, the plastic decal/trim comes as a set for the whole car. couple a years ago i saw a set on ebay, missing one piece. they bought the set, used what they needed and sold the rest. the dealer can certainly order it for you. is the fender the right color? even after the decal/trim goes on yuo'll have to add paint to fill in the gray.

i take it you got the tire problem corrected?? this will kill a awd trans.

glad to see you are not still sleeping, welcome back!!

i had my oil changed at firestone and when i got in to leave it would not idle. i looked under the air intake between the filter box and the throtle body and found a vacuum line hanging loose. it's unsettling to pay for service only to realize the idots either don't know better or don't care. how could he back it out of the shop with it running so bad. check under the air intake for loose hoses!!!

do you know what year the "new" diff came out of?? thats the only way you'll ever know. or open the both up and count the teeth, but thats not something i'd ever do. there are some web sites for parts that might help with what years are compatible. first subaru parts, or genuine subaru parts, or maybe car-part.com. you can search the year you have and see what others years will match. not a garrantee, but it might help. from what i've read recently, manuals don't match a/t's, and 2.5's don't match 2.2's. but the chances are good that a 90 leg man diff was used on lots of cars. good luck.

one of the yards in richmond, va has a tv commercial with daryl and his brother daryl, where they pay the buck just so they can watch the car crusher.

slightly off topic, a friend bought a used volvowagon turbo. the turbo failed the used car lot said tuff, what else would they say.? they had the repair done by a local independant quality shop. the turbo fails again. he replaces for free. the turbo fails again. 3 times. now he calls the supplier to find out what's wrong with their product. some one finally concludes that the engine had overheated in the past damaging both the turbo and the engine. and that now the damaged engine is ruining the turbos. they replaced the engine. does any of this make sense? i know nothing about turbos.

i went back and reviewed your story, correct me if i'm wrong: you bought a replacement short block retail price $4500 it fails, and they offer you a replacement at their cost (no profit) $3000 you write a letter and sit down and talk they offer to split the retail price, your half $2200 i would see if you can get them to split the no profit price. the 4500 price has 1500 profit in it. if you pay 2200 their cost is $800. does that sound fair?? also, every time you negotiate with them the price gets lower. keep up the good work. keep pushing them. they know you have a claim and they made a mistake or they would not offer anything. worst case senario, they quit talking and say "so sue me". or sell them the car? what will they buy it for.? tell them you want what you owe. another possibility, you provide the engine, they put it in for free. this allows you to shop for the engine . you can buy a used one for cheap, less money, more risk. but people do it all the time. i bought a wrecked 96 leg wagon for 400$. good engine, good trans, 125K. good luck

i'm not sure you want to see the guys at my yard dance!!!

if you are talking about on the starter, then yes. the big wire is from the battery, the smaller one is from the ignition, by way of a relay. (they don't send tons of amps thru the steering column.) in between the key and the starter there is at least one if not more saftey stops. such as the a/t saftey switch which won't let it start except in park or neutral. if it's not starting ever, you can test the voltage at that wire / connection on the starter when you try to start. mine however was intermitten and so it never fail when testing. i never tried jumping it from the battery when it wouldn't start. but in theory, if you turn on the key, and send 12v to the small connector on the starter, it should start. BE SURE YOU ARE CLEAR OF MOVING PARTS!!! it would be best to hard connect a wire to the starter and then put juice to the other end of the wire (pos. battery post.) BE SURE IT'S IN PARK AND THE BRAKE IS ON!!!!! stop sending volts when it starts. if it starts every time like this the problem is in between the the ignition and the starter. wiring, relay, cutout switch, or something. wiring diagram will help, i've never checked anything in betwen. good luck.