johnceggleston

i've got 2 choices, sell them now, or store them till the ones on the car wear out. that's unknown. a year maybe more for storage. i've heard that tires today have a calendar life regardless how much you drive them. i hate to store them til they rot. and although i bought these, the ones on the car loook just as good. and swapping would cost what, 60$???

the donor car i bought had alloy wheels and good michelen tires. my 95 leg sed had 80k michelens with about 30k miles on them. my son obviously wanted the alloys. so how do i store the other tires to keep them from rotting? on the wheel or off the wheel, inflated or deflated or am i just wasting my time they'll rot anyway.?

true, but all bad dealers are stealers.

in one of my most ignorant moments, i removed the nut on the end of the axel and tried to remove the axel out of my donor car. i di this while it sat on the ground wit hfull weight, well no engine or transmisson. i realized my error and jacked it up to remove and needed a puller to remove the axel. i had already tried removing the axel with it in the air but no luck. the second time i forgot to jack it up before removing t5he nut. question: is this wheel, hub. bearing, etc. all ruined?? what damage did i cause.? the wheel on the other side spins very freely, but this one slows pretty quickly. if i replace the bearing is it ok for later swap or trade? luckily i screwed up on the donor car. thanks, john

my understanding was / is that disconnecting the battery for a few minutes will clear codes. when you start up if the problem persists, the code will return. to clear history, leave it disconnected over night, or at least a long time. i had my CEL read this week, and the guy at merchants cleared it ... misfire #4, new plugs and wires. so i'm not sure what he's talking about. i alsao here that leaving it disconnected for a long period, will reset the ecu's memory and it will learn how you drive again. not too sure about that one!! john

chances are you can get a bad trans and just ues the diff. the labor might be a little more but the trans has to be cheaper. car-patrs.com core trans prices are like 75$. but like manarius said, 1k$ for used tranny installed. not a bad deal.

i can see where heat cause eletric parts to break down. i wonder if old a/t fluid could casue higher temps and contribute to duty c failure.?

first let me say i don't know anywhere near as much as most of you. 0% power to the duty c creates locked 4WD 100% power to the duty c creates FWD ecu control usually creates 90% front/ 10% rear, and it adjust it as needed. well i don't see the difference between 90% and 100% being so great to garrantee damage to anything. of course i have heard that the duty c works on cycles of electricty, not constant electricty with reduced voltage. and the gamble is $50 duty c, and $300 labor ..... or $900 clutch pack. the duty c in my 97 obw was bad when i bought it with 98k miles. no way to tell why. but since the tires all match and there weren't modifications, i would just say some parts fail sooner than others. this is just my logic and $.02 worth. john

that is annoying. that's almost enough to make you clip the seatbelt while not in the seat and then sitting on top of it. people used to do that in the 70's. seatbelts were knida new and well .....

i thought it was a 2 wire connector under the seat near the front. if the car doesn't know you're sitting in it, it won't sound the alarm.

i love it, and the storage under the flat bed too. i wonder what the load capacity is?

i have a CEL for "misfire #4" i bought plugs and wires, they go in tomorrow. is there a fuse i can pull to clear clear the CEL on my 97 obw or do i still need to disconnect thje battery?? thanlks john

go to an auto parts web site and search for o2 sensors for both the '05 and the '02. if they are the same and they maybe, can you get the cat for less than the new sensor? if its cheaper , and the sensors are compatible. get the used cat, swap the sensor and then decide what to do with the cat, sell swap or scrap.

how many miles on it ? a/t or man? i guess it's a/t. make sure the tires match and are properly inflated. (there i said it, now nipper can rest his back.) welcome to the club, they're great cars.

it will be much less work / headache if you use the same year and model. if you search there's a thread about a similar swap and he had to change the wiring. so the standard is, same year make and model, if not, at least get the tcu if not the differential. i just put a 96 leg wagon 2.2L a/t into a 95 leg sedan 2.2L. no problems. but they were real close, and i have the whole car. 90 to 98 is a long shot. don't spend the money. find a pre 95 a/t. search the for sale section.

now go buy 2 used rims, and have the old tires mounted. then, when you've run the new ones 10k miles , rotate in the 2 spare wheels with tires. now 6 tires are working. if you buy 4 rims, you'll have a snow tire set after you wear out these 6 tires. my wife used to detsroy 1 tire a year on the mini van. good thing it wasn't awd.

how big is the bolt head? how about a pipe wrench? hack saw the head off. drill it out and use an easy out. i guess the first question should be do you have electricity??? sawzall !!!

first the exhaust has to be cold, not hot. spray ti wit hpenetrating oil and let it sit. unplug the wires, this was pretty hard on the rear one on my 97obw. the unscrewing isint bad if you soak it. just don't break it.

i have a shift cable from a 96 leg 2.2 wagon if you need it. send me a pm with zip code. .

i don't know how hard it is to remove, but you will still have a 2 tone paint job every where except the new fender. the decal is inbetween the paint up top and gray down below. go to macco and have them paint the fender to match w/ decal/trim. how much could it cost. they do the whole car for 400$.

how does that work? are you talking about the tz102 model number or the other number on the trans. from one of the parts supplier web sites, first subaru i think, i found that all 96-99 a/t 2.5L leg / outback have the same rear diff. but i have no idea what that is. this seems to be one of the most mysterious areas of subaru info. my manual doen't even mention the final drive. hopefully the FSM does.

call a body shop, the plastic decal/trim comes as a set for the whole car. couple a years ago i saw a set on ebay, missing one piece. they bought the set, used what they needed and sold the rest. the dealer can certainly order it for you. is the fender the right color? even after the decal/trim goes on yuo'll have to add paint to fill in the gray.

i take it you got the tire problem corrected?? this will kill a awd trans.

glad to see you are not still sleeping, welcome back!!

i had my oil changed at firestone and when i got in to leave it would not idle. i looked under the air intake between the filter box and the throtle body and found a vacuum line hanging loose. it's unsettling to pay for service only to realize the idots either don't know better or don't care. how could he back it out of the shop with it running so bad. check under the air intake for loose hoses!!!