johnceggleston

mine didn't leak when cold. not untril the system heated up and the pressure increased. my cap looked ok on the outside, but it still leaked. i wonder if oem cap would last longer (mine was not oem, old or new). i didn't even price it. good luck.

maybe temp sensor, temp gage (does it move at all), instrument cluster connections .... how hot is the heater when you drive it? if it's putting out "HOT" air then the t-stat is working. if it's just mild or warm, then it's not working. i would think the temp sensor would throw a code but i'm not sure. does obdI have a code for temp sensor? check your heat. if you have a cooking/meat thermometer (the kind you stab into a piece of meat) stick it into the air vent and measure. it might be the gage. i wouln't want to do this ... but if you drained it and ran the car the temp gage should spike. "THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS". you could ruin your head gaskets. check your heat. edit: tape a thermometer to the upper radiator hose (so you can still read the temp), this won't be a perfect temp reading but if it goes high ..... at least you'll have an idea of the temp.

we just had this discussion last week. i'd use a new bolt, new pulley and torque it past the spec. i think i'd rather bust the bolt than ruin the crank. one is easier to fix.

search burp*

you can buy seats, if wait long enough and are willing to pay enough you can buy leather ........... ooooooooooo leather!!!!

thanks for the post and info. i'll try it . last week when i changed my plugs and wires, i checked my battery acid level. (champion battery, new this year). it was a little low so i added some distilled water, at least 12 oz. maybe 16 or so total for 6 cells. much more than i expected, i filled until the water reached the "depth gage"(?), mayb just a little more. yesterday when i got in the car i noticed a spot on the pavement, popped the hood and found the top of the battery (just a little) and the battery tray wet. so i guess i should have my alternator checked. if it's over charging my battery, that's not good. what else, if anything, should i check? and can i do it with a multi meter or should i got to autozone? thanks , john

just out of couriosity, what do you change to make a 97 2.2 non-interference? the pistons, heads, valves??? and what makes the 99 so you can't correct it? just interested. 97 and 98 2.2 non-interference engines... what a great selling point. john

the last post dealing wit hwipers "slapping" the car was on the high end of the arc. some one reported that the linkage was worn out and sloppy and that was causing the problem. linkage is located under the apron(?) near the firewall under the hood. should have a black rubber gasket on it the entire width of the engine bay. good luck.

unless there's something wrong with that wheel, you better get an alignment. otherwise you'll wearout your winter tires in the same way. that would be a real waste. you need to solve the problem as soon as the winter tires go on, if not before.

matt, what kind of relay, where did you get it, where did you mount it , and which wires did you splice into to do the job?????? i was thinking about just a pushbutton for the starter, but a relay sound much better. thanks, john

i have a 95 that has begun to act funny. so i'm just learning abou this. but from what i've read so far.... it could be the speed sensor on the transmission, but it's cheaper to pull the speedometer and clean the contacts first. it may be the speedometer it self, but cleaning the contacts doesn't cost if you do it yourself. used speedo are an option to save some money. and i have read that you can turn the numbers on the speedo, but only forward. never turn them back. as far as adding miles for thoses you may have missed this year, even if the spedometer isn't working the odometer may be. so which is it speedo, odo or both not working.? i think in my case it's the speed sensor on the trans, because i just had it swapped and everything worked fine before the swap. john

call them up and tell them you need the ones for abs.

do you hear this rain or shine, (all the time) or just when it rains.? it's hard for me to imagine that 6oz. of coolant would make it low enough to slosh/gurgle. i remember something about water getting inside the passenger rocker panel, (the part below trhe door on pass. side.) can't imagfine why it would sound like it's in the dash so it probably has nothing to do with your situation. good luck.

it may not have anythin to do with the alarm. my 97 obw has an intermitten starter problem. between reading here and fiddling with it i have concluded it is in the electric in the steering column. was hoping for starter contacts, but i don't think so. i think mines in the column. good luck. let us know what you find. edit: i've had pretty good luck geting it stared by turning every thing off, lights, radio, ac, and then trying again. not perfect but helpful.

i wonder if the subaru tour is like the budwiser tour used to be whan you could go and drink beer for free??? maybe they'll let you drive a new car for a while, like maybe 200k miles.

imagine the headache if WV did emission test. do you feel lucky, do ya?? take the risk or play it safe??

merchant tire in va quoted 250$ for plugs and wires replacement. wires were 96$ plugs 10$(?) labor 150$ @ 75/78 per hour. i think this was "retail plus".

how about removing the rear section of the drive shaft for the week end. wopuld that hurt any thing?? i don't jhave the thread but here are some pics: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50543 http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/? some of the parts mentioned in the former post seem unneeded. like "plate under". check out he pics and see what you think. my repair used silicone gasket on the rear extention housing, not factory gasket. definitly use new duty c. if you know what a bad clutch pack loks like can you figure out what a good clutch pack looks like? and if it's your labor would consider used. good luck

when searching car-part.com, everything indicates that 95 a/t is 4.11, 95 m/t is 3.9. the 3.9 shows up in the description of rear "carrier" for 95 m/t thru 97 m/t more often than any other ratio. 95 a/t thru 98 a/t is 4.11 for 2.2L cars. this is not a garrantee. i'd call the dealer parts dept. EDIT: i also found a reference to the 4:44 ratio in the 96-99 2.5L a/t as 40 x9 teeth. if this is the case then the 4:11 ratio will have 37 teeth on the ring gear and 9 on the pinion; and the 3:9 will have 35 teeth on the ring gear and 9 on the pinion. any one know if this is acurate? and is it more or less work to swap a ring gear than a rear diff. ?? my guess is more. but knowlege is power, and more is better. john

ej22 up through and including 1996 are non-interference. ej22 after 1996 are interference. i have read here , but don't know for sure , that 90-94 ej22 do not have egr on the intake manifold. later engines do. i don't know. who does know??

there are several good threads dealing with this repair. they range from gluing the thing back together with some "never will let go" locktite, to actually repairing the keyway with welding(?) and then fileing it back to perfect. it also included the 2 pin method mentioned here. look around. the most important information is : crank pulley wobble is the symptom of the problem. the problem is under torque of the crank pulley bolt. so when you have the work done or do it yourself, learn enought to torque the bolt correctly. i thought myne was a result of the previous owner not using a $0.79 tube of locktite. but no, it's all about holding the flywheel and correct torque. locktite may not hurt, but it won't prevent the problem.

sedan and wagon rear bumpers are different. i have a 96 wagon rear bumper, color light / sea green??? if interested pm me with email address and i'll send some pics. john

re: ac bracket you used the ac compressor off the 2.5 motor and needed the 2.5 ac bracket to mount it to the 2.2 motor??? is it possible to use the 2.2 ac compressor??

it didn't disappear, they just changed the entrance. try this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=37 you can always find it by viewing "new post" and then clikking on the category over on the right side of the page. good luck john.

try the techron first, it's 8$ and it might work. pour it in fill up and let it sit for the weekend. it fixed my fuel gage in my 95 leg. well it fixed it 7/8's of the way. it still doesn't go all the way to full. but it used to just sit on empty. the other thing is to sell it with a full tank. the buyer will figure out how to read it after one fill up. and the full tank will be his discount on the price. what's a tank cost ? well it used to cost $50 now... 35?