johnceggleston

:lol::lol::lol::lol:

ok so if you are in a situation and know you need more power to the rear wheels, put the selector in 1/2/r and you start off with more rear power. not 50/50 power but more than the standard in d. but the computer can't / won't vary the power because your manual selection has over ridden it. did i get it right. and i think it would take an engineer and a 4wd dyno to determine just what the power split was, and i don't really care, but if i'm in something deep i know enough to get it right the first time because by the time you try again, you may worse off. some one posted here once before that his dad explained off-roading in the old days, as driving in 2wd till you get stuck and then egaging 4wd, turning around and going home. this doesn't work for awd. john

you picked a good time to go, gas prices here are under 2$/gal. what have you been paying for gas?

for the amount you save you can get the hatch and install that, then get one to swap the glass into your hatch, or wait for the mid-winter (?) glass shop sale. then swap your's back on. more work and you look ugly for a while, but how much is new glass installed? what color green? dark?

there are ways to isolate the sound, maybe. that should help define it. if i can find it i'll post a link t oa site with a good diagnosti for piston slap. doen't sound like that's what you have, but the explaination is very educational. gave me insight on how things work and why. my 95 2.2 started ticking one day. i was sure it was new engine time. turned out to be low on oil. boy did i feel dumb. check this out. http://remanufactured-engines.com/page4.htm

how much work to put on a turbo??? is that doable? another thing is the outback body itself, outbacks weigh more than legacy wagons, some, maybe not much. could you get more power out of a legacy rather than an outback? i prefer the drivability of the leg sedan to the outback, but the outback has the wagon benefit. would taller struts and bigger wheels on a leg wagon drive like the outback or more like the sedan? i haven't driven the leg wagon.

got it. thanks

yes, the rear hatch from 95 - 99 is the same. the only difference is the labels or badging on the outside, outback or legacy. other differences would be color and opitons like rear defrost, rear wiper... but i think they all have that. what are you looking for?

every engine is different and has it's own noises. subaru engines do too. better than asking what's ok or not ok would be to describe or explain the problems or concerns you are having. much easier to rule out a noise than to tell you one is ok. my 97 obw has piston slap, was diagnosed as "bad wrist pin" by a mechanic at the non-subaru dealer selling it with "needs engine". in my case the noise doesn't go away when it warms up. it does get quiter , but is still there. but for me no biggie, i got a bargain price. so if i have to replace the engine i'll be ok price wise. besides, i already have the engine, tha't's why i was willing to buy the car. so if you have a noise question, fire away, but trying to tell you what's not ok is going to be hard. besides all noises a tempered by how well the car runs.

clarification please: any time the a/trans is in first or when you manually put the selector in first do you have 50/50 split. i just asumed it was only when you placed in first gear or reverse that it was 50/50, all other times it was computer controled. but even when it's is 50/50 you still have computer input be cause you don't have torque bind, right? i guess there's a difference between 50/50 split and locked. john

woohoo!!!!!! now only 250K miles to go!!!

thanks, that helps. i haven't been to reed's since i lived up there, and that was a long time ago. i guess they worked on foreign cars then, but mostly trucks and american sedans. that's what most old timers drove. there's a subaru driver (mid 80s ?) who's the manager of wimmer tier service just off franklin rd, but when asked he said "us". he claims to do the service for carillion hospitals, they have a fleet of imprezas. but some times service is different from repair, and wimmer is mostly tires, brakes, oil change, etc. i wouldn't look to them for engine repair or replacement.

i don't 'no nuttin' 'bout no cracked piston sleeves, but it sounds to me like you need a new dealer. real mechanics will know, but it sounds like classic HG to me. i'd be temped to swap , nto rebuild.

why the rotors, are the brakes pulsing? or are you just doing preventive maintenance? pads only are super easy, if the rotors aren't bad why bother?

if you need some one in roanke to do an engine swap where would you go, or in other words, where's a good soobie shop in roaknke. i do little things my self, but need to find some one reliable for bigger things. hopefully i won't ever need them , but you never know. and on another note, do you know who drives the late 80's (?) subaru with lisence plate "rubasu"? saw it on the hiway and just wondered. thanks, john

was that jackie chan driving?

you have been dealing with this for a long time and i'm sure you have checked the tire pressure repeatedly. i have a similar problem in my 97 obw. i was running over inflated tires for better gas mileage. but when i changed the tire pressure (1 or 2 pounds lower than spec) it improved dramaticly. so if you haven't tried it, i would. i'm sure lots of things contribute to this problem, so why not tire pressure. you might think back and see if the drifting problem started suddenly, around the time of new tires or slowwly over time? can you associate the problem with any specific change? good luck and keep us updated.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=521335&postcount=3

that sound reasonable to me, but before you do , make sure it's the right size/type/ bulb. there is a horror story on here about a guy who installed the wrong bulb and smelled smoke, then a bunch of lights failed.

don't feel bad, i got my car back after an oil change it wouln't idle. never could figure out how the guy backed it out of the shop with it running so bad, but he did, and then said you're good to go. i found the loose hose. now, do your self a favor and redescribe the problem you are having so someone with real mechical knowledge can help you. i only know the problems i've fixed on mine. john

no problem.

the hose i have trouble with in my 97obw come loose from the intake about half way between the air filter box and the throtle body, but it's on the bottom of the intake. it's hard to see if it's connected. look under there and see if there are any lose hoses or open holes. tends to come loose when you disconnect the intake from the filter box.

you can probably pick up a used instrument cluster for cheap. wouldn't that solve the CEL problem??

i'd talk to the yard, and see what they suggest. putting in a different trany is more work , but you can't live with what you have. i don't know how much work it is to swap the VC but if it's dooable you might look for half of your money back from the salvage yard. that might make it worth it.

i should have a couple of spare switches if you need them, 1 cruise and 1 rear defrost. the cruise ilumination light is iffy, i don't know about the other, but both switches work. let me know.