johnceggleston

yeah..... but i put on a new belt when i bought my 95 leg sed and ran it for 95k miles with out changing it. i then started to feel guilty and had it changed at 165k. at 167k the trans went out. 60k is the interval , but if you don't mind walking and towing..... i just put in a 125k trans (new rear seal and seperator plate). my son is driving it to college next month. i think / hope it will last 4 more years. i keep telling him if he trys really hard, he can tear it up, but then he'll be walking!!!

I NEVER THOUGHT IT WOULD BUT SINCE I HAVEN'T PULLED THE SEATS OUT YET I THOUGHT I'D ASK SOME ONE WHO HAS. THANKS.

what are the chances that the rear seat of a leg wagon 96 , will fit in a sedan 95 ? logic would tell me that the floor / frame of the cars are the same but i'm not sure. anybody know? it's the mounting and the upper fit that i question? thanks, john.

maybe ... a paperclip???

i had a tail pipe repair on my nissan truck a couple of years ago for about 90$, way too much!!. just a pice of pipe and some welding!!!... but 90$ to get back on the road seems pretty cheap rather than let it sit in the drive way.

i have a 96 i'll be taking apart in mid july. i don't remember the production month but i'll let you know when i'm back in town. let me know if interested. john

i don't know anything about auto to man swap, but the 99 a/t was different electrically from the 98, more wires different connectors. also the 99 a/t model # chanced to "jeba" from the 98. my guess is it would bolt on but you'd have to change the wiring and tcu.

they changed the lock system slightly in 97 , your key only opened the driver door after that. the haynes manual says to check the relay first under the dash if your doors are not locking properly. then check the solenoids in each door.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50543 THE CLUTCH PACK IS MOUNT IN THE REAR OF THE TRANSMISSION WHERE THE DRIVE SHAFT COMES OUT TO THE REAR WHEELS. MORE PICS http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/?

can't you check the timing with a light before you go to the expense and labor of replacing the belt???

it's either a 17 or a 19..

i've never messed with struts, i know you need a spring compressor to seperate the springv from the strut, can you remove the spring / strut assembly from the car without the compressor or seperating them?

boy, i dodged another one!! that's more money i don't have to spend. thanks, john

if i put outback struts in a legacy, cant ithen run the 15" outback wheles and tires? my logic tells me i would have beter gas mileage but less torque. bearable or not? john

i saw a show on the speed network about changing / controling the rev limiter in a big us pickup. special chip and software , maybe a tool/unit. well if they can do it for a pickup, why not a subaru.... but then why do you want to go that fast? if you want fast get a crotch rocket!!

so, i told my brother i had a 97 obw with AWD, and he laughed... " unless you have a lsd, you only have a 2WD car, but i suppose thats better than most, since they are only ONE whele drive." did subaru offer a lsd for the outback? was it an option or standard on some trim package? how do you identify it? ( by the way, i've been up close and personal with a 96 donor car diff and i didn't see any tag or label, but in fact i was pulling the trans, not diff.) is this idea overkill or is there some value in it? oh, and how much do they cost??? john

is it ok to use the synthetic air instead of summer air in your tires??? i know you have to change the winter air, but what should i put in????

there is a car it's called a tank. join the army and learn to drive.

i'm afraid mine would blow up. i'd rather not use it up that way!!!

i've run a 400w inverter (i think, but big none the less). i have never blown a fuse in my 97obw cig lighter. i've run a laptop. i think it depends on the laptop and how much it draws. at idle, the invedrter would make an alram noise indicating that there wasn't enough power from the car to supply the laptop. but the laptop has a battery for those times at idle. my inverter came with a pretty hefty cord to plung into the lighter, and another hefty cord with large battery clips to connect directly to the battery. the thought being you don't want to burn up the car wiring by pulling too big a load so connect to the battery dircetly. funny thing tho, the wires to the lighter appear to be very small. but as long as the wire is stronger than the fuse you're protected. my thought was to run a seperate wire to the inverter from the battery, but i never needed it. my guees is that there was a problem with your other inverter, or it was under fused. i think you'll be ok. john

when you change the speedometer, do you just live with the new mileage or can it be adjusted to reflect your true mileage.?? i've read where you can order from subaru an odometer wuith your mileage on it , true??

i thought you could disconnect the battery for a good while to clear codes??

i have had occasions in my 95 leg sed, when the cruise would not work. i tried turning it on andd off no help. i figured that's it time to spend money. but surprise, the next time i drove, it owrked. so go ahead and check, but it may not be completely dead.

thanks, guys!! i never figured my fix would be so lucky. i'll swap them around after vacation, until then i'll ride in the wife's car. thanks again, john

look, if you haven't driven the core trans you might just be getting the same problem. change the fluid, if that helps, you're done til the swap. if not then you can change the clutch pack, that may help but depends on trhe donor trans. if i were going to the labor to change the clutch pack i would install a new / working duty c solenoid. you don't want to have to pull it again. one guy ran in front wheel drive for 2 years after the clutch went bad and he had bought the duty c. never got around to doing the labor. once the duty c failed, he had to replace the clutch and the solenoid.