johnceggleston

some+one posted a solution last year. it involved poliishing with something and then using clear shelac(?) to seal it. try searching headlights?

subaru trans fluid are a hard read. i'm not sure why, maybe the fluid splashes around and gets on the dip stick giving faulty readings. i took my 95 leg in for a severly leaking rear seal. (i was at speed ont he hiway , felt a shutter, and when i got home 15 min later fluid was running out of the trans.) they replaced the seal, and sent me on my way, $@%)!!! 125 miles later i lost reverse. checked the fluid level, wasn't sure. so i bought and add 3 qts of fluid. rechecked it, and noticed a slight difference in readings. went back to the shop and asked how much fluid they put in, "NONE, we checked it and the level was fine." so check your level when you know it's good so you'll have a way to compare when it's low. also, i here ther is only about 1 pint of fluid difference between hot and cold . any comments.

how many mile are in a tank of gas, maybe 400??? if the life of the engine is 250k miles that's 0.16% the life of the car. use it up and drive on to the next gas station.

ok, we have an electronic engineer saying it's an electronic design problem and a mechanic saying it's a carbon? build up on a stiky valve. any body want to take bets on who is correct???? which solution cost less?

another way to judge if you are changing your oil often enough is "how black is it? how much did you drain?" if it's black as night then i'd do it sooner, if you only get out 2.5 qts plus the filter i'd check it more often. one of the smartest things i've read here is "if you want to clean your engine, change the oil every 500 or 1k miles, let the detergent do the work!!!" most of us put off the job until we feel guilty or forced to do it. maybe not the money but the pain of going to the shop. i'm with nipper, more is better!!

does my 95 leg or 97 obw have a manual switch?? if so i've never seen it or operated it. must be a 90 - 94 thing??

i need to correct something before i get corrected. the rear dics on outback are the same as legacy. direct swap. the front are different. the front on the outback are bigger, more stopping power? i don't know about the calipers or pads. the legacy front may not be vented. i can't remeber.

late 90's outbacks have vented (looks like 2 discs with walls/chambers seperating them) front and rear braked disc. my mechanic says these can be resurfaced. late 90's legacy l has vented front (same as outback) and nonvented rear. my guy says he won't resurface ANY non vented dics. some get fixed some don't . i bougth a 97obw that had vibration when breaking. it was the rear and they had just been turned. i bought new, they were cheap and easy. there is some trick to figuring out if it's front or rear. see correction below.

if you can get to it, i would losen the return line from the rack to the pump / resivoir in order to bleed the system. put a catch basin under that part of the car, fill with new fluid, and turn lock to lock several times watching the fluid level. don't let it get too low. refill as needed. when the "draining / leaking" fluid is clean and obviously new, tighten the return line and refill with fluid. now you've removed almost alll of the old and good to go with new.

sounds like the power steering pump is binding up and in turn slowing down the drive belt for the alternator. next would be belt failure??? goodluck.

does this help? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54185 john

i never had any luck with this "magic", but then i don't drive an impreza!! i ended up at he dealer and when i asked what code was stored they said i neede a new clutch pack, $950. yeah, but what code? ... new clutch pack, $950!!! good luck.

i don't remember how they hooked into the case but the shaft and cam (with spring) are the "park" lock for the transmission (you put the car in park and the wheels won't roll). i shifted my junk trans into and out of park when i was removing the clutch pack. the park lock is surprising simple. look at these pictures. especialy #12 of 24 on the first page, third down on the far right. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/? any chance these loose parts caused the binding? good luck

where are the icelandic suubs built? usa or japan? maybe it's not just the design but design plus building process.

the brighton is the very basic model, no power options like windows, locks mirrors. no tach. the engine and trans are the same.

how many miles on this 96 0bw??

i drove a 95 2.2l timing belt 90k after i changed it at 75k, when i bought it. the manual calls for every 60k, but califiornia 100k. but i doubt that the 2.5 l timing belt would go 144k miles without failing. pull off the cover and check the condition of the belt. it won't tell you when to change, but it might not look 144k old. if you can't find out when it was actually done, i'd change it. besides by the time you drive the new belt 100k miles you will have gotten your money's worth out of the car. if it fails you may never get your money out of it. i jus changed the belt in my 97 obw at 98k miles. the water pump was leaking. i did belt, pump, and seals while i had it in the shop. $650.

i don't think the door panel has to come off to remeove the mirror. i could be wrong but i don't think so.

so, go to home depot i get a piece of 1/2 inch ply wood cut ot size. then you worry less.

you left out the part about picking up the free suub!!

if i put 3500 in a car i'd want to drive it at least 35k miles to break even. if you can afford to wait for the rght car, you can buy a wreck with a 2.2l engine, do the swap and drive for lots less. there was a great discussion just this week about 2.2's into 2.5 cars. (search for it.) what fits, what's easy, etc.

let's hope that the victims just happened to own a subaru and that there are not gun toting criminals invading homes to steal subarus!!!!

if you use an awd trans in front to drive the front wheels and let the rear drive shaft drive all the rest as you first suggested, you could use the "fwd" fuse placement to disconnect the rear 4 wheels making it easier to travel from home the beach. youd be pulling more weight and therefore run slower, but you wouldn't be pushing all 6 wheels all the time. just when you wanted. any binding due to the gear ratios wouldn't mean much in the sand, and wouln't exist on the road.

or trade them the old one you pull!! you don't need it.

how do you solve the clunking problem? live with it or fix it? john