johnceggleston

it all depends on the year, model, engine, miles of the car you arte talking about .???? not many parts will swap out of their year group, such as 95 - 99 or 00 - 04. but with out info on your car we can not help you.

worst case you would have to swap in an ej22 OBD2 intake manifold . the ej25 engine harness will probably work as log as the sensors are all the same. a visual comparison should be enough. but there is a good chance that the engine will drop in and run. most of the OBD2 differences are in the computer, not the sensors. but i'm not 100% sure of that. the cam and crank sensors are the same. and the MAF, not sure about the TPS. the other thing to watch out for is the EGR. the ej25 cars of the 90s need EGR. so your replacement engine will need to have EGR.

if the FWD light comes on, then the duty C is working. if the FWD does not come, on then the duty C is not working. an intermittent duty c is not unheard of. but i do not know the cause.

what happens if you manually shift it into 2 ?

no, it will not swap into a 2000 car. at least not easily and not with out a trouble light. the 00 - 04 cars require that you use an engine from that group.

what he said, plus, the interval is 105k miles or months. the dealer is trying to get out of replacing it in order to sell the car. but the good news is that he did not slap on a new belt call it good and sell it to you. now when you have it done correctly you can do it all as mentioned.

DIY Head Resurfacing... or "Post-apocalyptic machine shop techniques!" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/

there will be an ID number on the trans bell housing, but there is no way easy way to decipher the year or the ratio. search car-part.com , some of those listing MAY show the ID#. or go to opposedforces.com/parts, look up any model , year, trans, and it will list the trans ID#. but this usually isn't necessary, the salvage yards are usually pretty good, they know where their parts came from, model, year, engine, miles. one tip, if you tell them you are looking for a 97 trans, they will not sell you one from a 96 or a 95. they do not know that those will fit and they do not want the headache of you trying to return it because it is the wrong one. so locate the trans you want o their website, and then call looking for that trans.

copied from another forum. how to fill and burp your cooling system. taglines: burpcoolingsystem; suphonfill; burpcoolantsiphon. compiled from previous posts: PART 1> 1/ remove vent plug on radiator at top hose. 2/ fill radiator at fill neck / cap SLOWLY. (slowly is key.) (i have written this a couple of times and it works great, for me. but it is so odd and extreme i really don't expect any one to follow it. sit the jug of coolant on the passenger strut tower and use a long tube, about 1/4 inch diameter, to siphon the coolant in the rad. the process is so slow you will get bored, but slow works in this situation. ) 3/ when full install the vent plug and rad cap. 4/ start the engine and run it up to full operating temp. then shut it down and wait for it to cool down. 5/ open the rad and top it off. mine usually only takes a couple 3-4 oz. (most folks run the engine with the rad cap off to burp it. but i have found that when it burps it looses more coolant than it really needs to so i just heat it up and then let it cool before i open it. all you really want to do is circulate the coolant and eliminate any air bubbles. the siphon is so slow it really does not need much burping or topping off. this is different than most other fill and burp process. ) good luck. PART 2> the last 2 times i have filled an empty cooling system on an ej25 engine, i have used a very unusual method and have had NO problems and have not had to burp. i put the gallon of coolant on top of the engine, either the passenger strut tower or the air box near the firewall. i then use a small diameter tube (~5/16 inch, inside diameter) to siphon the coolant out of the jug and into the rad. (it helps if the tube is clear so you can see the coolant as it gets close to your mouth.) after the jug is empty, i then start over with a half jug (2 qts.). this is a very slow process because of the size of the hose, but more so due to the very small difference in height. the system fills very slowly and has time to back fill the engine thru the top rad hose. i make sure the rad cap is at least level with or usually higher than the rest of the rad. having the vent cap open helps too. the first time i did it i tried to burp it but i ended up wit h less coolant in the system than when the siphon had finished. so this last time i just let the siphon do its thing and then put the cap on. no problems. it works great, but it is really, really, slow. so i do it while i'm finishing up the last little bits of whatever i'm working on. this is so slow that if you did it and then watched it you would give up and start pouring long before it got done. but it is a great time to open a beer and admire your work. i doubt this is a good technique for a car that needs to be burped, but it works great for filling empty systems. HTH. PART 3> for 90s legacys, the small vent cap is the trick to filling correctly. coolant WILL NOT flow into the upper rad hose / engine block unless you have the vent plug removed. and even then you have to fill it SLOWLY. once you have slowly added as much as it will take with the vent plug open, close that, fill to the top of the rad and start the engine. when the t-stat opens the coolant will burp out of the rad and the level will drop. (in most cases it will drop, but if you filled it slow enough the system MAY be full.) top it off and put on the cap. (my solution to filling slowly is to siphon the coolant out of the jug and into the rad. i use a 1/4''- 3/8'' clear tube about 10 feet long that i bought years ago and i use it for all of my siphoning needs. it fills the rad so slowly you get bored. but you can rotate tires or change the oil while you wait. once it is full, mine will not burp. it is full.) on a side note: if you used a non-subaru t-stat you are going to have trouble. they do not work and it will over heat. i know some of you do not want to believe this but it is true. i was one of them for a long time. there are several parts on these engines that MUST be subaru. and hopefully you do not damage anything learning that. SOMETIMES, not very often, a ''high quality'' replacement part will work, but ''cheap'' aftermarket parts are never a good solution for these ''subaru only'' parts. they end up not working correctly and you not only have to redo the work (twice the labor) you have to buy another, usually more expensive, part. buying parts twice is never cost effective, even if your labor is free.

the 97 impreza outback with the ej22 engine and manual trans has a 3.9 final drive ratio. all cars 95 - 99 with the ej22 engine and manual trans have a 3.9 ratio. (except the 96 outback manual trans, it has the ej22 and the 4.1 ratio manual trans, i think.) you can use the manual trans from any ej22 car 95 - 99 except the 96 outback 5 speed. search www.car-part.com , sort by distance. you will have to search each model and year separately.

that part number is for europe. search again and use the US catalog.

by the way, the 99 outback already has the ej251 block, with DOHC heads and intake. it is a hybrid engine, a transition year. so as mentioned, you can use the 00 short block with the 99 heads and intake. what happened to the ''bad'' head? busted t-belt , bent valves? seized cam shaft? busted cam sprocket? good used heads can be had for $150 each, on www.car-part.com, or less from craigslist.org or someone here. the ej251engine is more valuable than a 95 je22 with EGR, but the headache of trading engines to get an ej22 mat take a while. good luck.

do you have the remote entry unit? if yes, then there is a button. if no remote entry unit, then no button, unless some one remove the unit. the button is likely wrapped in tape as part of the wiring harness for the unit. follow the wires that are plugged into the unit and look for a fat spot in the tape. the button comes concealed, and will still be that way until someone uses it. i think the button has brown wires??

''rebuilt'' is not a very descriptive term. what all did he do? head gaskets, timing belt and idlers, front oil seals, water pump are pretty easy. but ''rebuilt'' suggests new crank and rod bearings, which is not so easy. so find out what he did,? and if this is the first one he has done,? and if you can talk to one of the current owners of his ''rebuilds''.? if an engine cost 200, timing lit + seals cost 150, head gaskets cost 75 oil separator plate costs 35 oil? RTV? machine shop? find out what all he did? the more he did for that price the better, assuming he knows what he is doing. what was the compression before he ''rebuilt'' it? how many miles?

i did this once at a car wash, 30 years ago, datsun pickup. i called a locksmith and he charged me $21 to open the door. $1 to unlock it, $20 for the stupid fee. he picked the lock in about 20 seconds. didn't even need the slim jim.

talk about a thread from the past. i doubt many folks are going to read it from the beginning. but a thread on another forum triggered a new thought. ABS is miss named. it is not a braking system. it was not designed as a braking system. it does not stop you quicker in bad weather. it does not stop you faster in good weather. it dies not stop you sooner in the snow, or faster on ice. it is a STEERING system. it was designed to let you steer in ALL situations, wet, dry, snow, mud, sand, dirt, gravel, or ice, when accelerating or when standing on the brake pedal. no matter what the conditions, situation, how hard you brake, or how much driving experience you have, it allows you to steer your car when braking. IT IS NOT A BRAKING SYSTEM. it is a steering system. i think they should have named it Automated Steering System, or A.S.S. imho.

pic credit goes to cardoc on the outback forum. he posted this week and i borrowed it .

if the fuel pump is working, my suggestion is to check the timing. remove the timing covers one each side of the engine, 3 bolts each side. see if the cam sprocket timing marks line up correctly. both should be pointing in the exact same direction. you may have to turn the engine over by hand to find the marks.

usually there is a main fusible link that blows to prevent damage. i don't know about brats, but if there is a fuse box under the hood, check all the fuses, sbf (slow blow fuses) and fusible links there.

read these: > TIMING BELT ARTICLES < > Timing Belt Pictures < look at these: click on bottom pic for a close up of the pink timing marks. .

link to programming info, Subaru Keyless Entry, Security Alarm, Immobilizer Key, Remote Start Systems. Most years and models there is also a write up about a keyfob repair. but if the fob is not programmed , you may not be able to tell if it isn't working. the repair deals with corrosion inside the buttons on the circuit board. its a good write up , with great pictures. tip regarding programming, some folks have a problem with false alarms or stray alarms. the fix is to program your fobs several times until all 4 possible fob slots in the system are programmed. one fob programmed four times will do this.

any fluid leaks? wheel bearings will go bad with age and use, but diff bearings, maybe trans bearings, usually only fail due to low or no gear oil. i guess you need to locate the noise, and identify it. but in my opinion, a used rear diff, or drive shaft, or even a used trans is a much better , cheaper solution than replacing the vehicle. the cost of repair should be compared to the cost of a replacement car, not the value of the car needing repair. since you have another free car, if the blazer is in good operating condition, it may be a cheaper solution. in this case you have to decide what you want to drive.

the wires / heating elements in the seats will can break with age. this will cause a no heat situation. is it both seats or just the driver side?

the first phase 2 auto trans was in the 99 outbacks, GTs, legacy L and the low end impreza. (99 lego L and loend impreza have the EXACT same ID number). in 00 all other auto trans went to the phase 2 trans. any 90 - 98 auto trans (usdm, but not the loyale) will plug in and run in any 90 - 98 car (usdm, butnot the loyale), IF, IF, IF, the final drive ratio matches the rear diff. the wiring is the same, the electronics are the same and the ECU does not care.

no, not accurate. but you are beginning to get the feel of it. the DBA (97 - 98) is one year younger than the CBA (96 - 97). but the EBA 99 is altogether different, a phase 2 trans, since it is a TZ1A2..... not the TZ102 than they used all through the 90s (90 - 98). good luck.