Quidam

Injector options info would be good. Mabie more fuel pressure? 92 Loyale 3AT, I did this. Put in premiuem fuel on the second tank I bumped the timing up at the distributor...I didn't check this with a light, but it aparantly adds to the total advance. Anyway, no matter where you set it, it still cranks over and starts with a lower advance. I got it running clean, all stock. I can wind it out in first gear untill 7400-7500 where It gets a violent fuel/ignition? cut. But it runs clean up to there. 6900-7000 in second gets me down the road pretty good, if I want to go there. I like a pump gas regular car for a driver so next tank will be regular with a detune. I can't do the above without good fuel tho. Doug

The valve rocker and cam lobe stay in contact with the lash adjuster having .040 range where it makes adjustments. Hope that makes sense. Doug

I don't think you killed the battery. I've started my Subarus with a lawn mower battery and a big V-8 with a GL battery. Sounds like it's just a weak battery. Doug

You want GL 5, and it's not limited slip. hth Doug

Yea, the ZDDP thing , anyone with lifters, turbo (ours are journal bearing, not ball or roller bearing), or EA 82 should pay attention. I wonder if the new gen small journal crank, EJ peeps have been bitten by this too. At the end of the day as it stands now, is the three way cat. ZDDP is primarily taken out of oil for that in particular to the extent it has in SN oil. Highest point of friction in an overhead valve engine is lifter to cam lobe interface. If you put a reground cam in an EA 81 lubed with moly with SN oil in the pan,, that increases the odds of wiping those cams out. Traditionally, moly lubes the cam until the ZDDP can take over. That's in short supply with just an SN oil. The old small block Chevy's are priority lifter/cam oiling, lubes cam and lifters first. My LS 6.0 new gen small block is priority main. That's a good thing, and with roller cam, lifters, and rockers is how they were able to change that. Our EA 82 motors are Priority Main engines (first to receive oil from the pump), but this still isn't good news for the bearings and valve train, this SN oil. Anyway, here's a good chart. Our old engines were built to run generally twice as much Zinc and phosphorous as what's in SN oil. There are oil's available like this with the additive package restored for our old cars. And stuff like this to add to lesser formulations. Doug

That new oil pump kit, once you do that it will tell you a lot. Last Mickey Mouse I replaced, and IIRC all I've replaced, cave in on the top port on the pump. That supplies the main galley after the filter. The bottom port Mickey is supply to the filter. Just for grins, if you would, check the crank for in and out movement. Just wondering about your thrust bearing. Doug

And what oil are you running? You might not have a good enough oil in it, or the right additive package for 1988 Turbo. But yea, tell us more. Doug

I'm asuming Steve's looking at the factory gage? Personally, I haven't had a sending unit that totally flaked out on me. I've replaced a couple three for being leakers. Yea, screwing in a known good one is easy enough. Or. Screw in a mechanical gage to the oil pump under the hood. It's an EA 82T.

IIRC, the dipstick tube is the vent, but I could be wrong. It is held in by that spring action. Options? Clean it up at a car wash or such and use the dye. Have you tried putting fresh cardboard under it and observing what drips where? You do have that little cover plate on the bottom of the bell you can remove, right? It can be frustrating...It took me a while to track down two different leaks in a C4 Ford AT. I ended up power washing it then used cardboard under it. Then reading glasses and a flashlight. Made it crystal clear. Doug

Well, just to be clear. I have an "87 SPFI optical with snap on cap, black round, four wire plug. Doug

If you have the SPFI Hitachi with the clip on cap, it's an optical, so you can probably wire in the newer optical dizzy. Doug

That ebay link you posted...$1200.00 (add $200.00 for 2006 up), your core and state sales tax looks like a pretty good deal. NEW crank and pistons, 100% feedback, and you can pick it up. Yea, better make sure you have a rod bearing problem tho:). Doug

The smaller diameter spring inserts into the top two holes on the brake shoes. The larger diameter spring goes to the bottom two holes in the brake shoes. Those clips are hold down springs. If you can't find that stuff local (auto parts stores around here don't even stock fuel and air filters) RockAuto.com has all you would want. You can buy just the hold down pins and clips/springs in a kit. Doug

I recieved a Beck/Arnley oil pump seal kit Monday, Made in Japan. Orange O ring...it all fits good. Pump is a NOS B/A that I robbed the seals from for another motor. B/A oil filter, Made in Korea. Doug

If it's pinging it's not that fun to drive, down on power, and real potential for damage to the motor. At least put premiuem fuel in it. If it's pinging it will run hotter too and could possibly take out a head gasket... Doug

Take a vacume gage and hook it up to a vac port on the intake manifold. One easy to get to is on the passenger side near where the bolts are for the intake. It supplies vac for the heater controls and such. You should see 20/21" vac and steady. If it's 15" or so, fluctuating and such, you probably have a blown headgasket. Doug

Search ebay for remanufactured heads for your motor, if you have the cash. Dude has like 7 of those for $100.00 ea. with free shipping. Doug

You're probably right about that. I can't say that for sure because I made an assumption when I posted. I'm pretty sure I was wrong. I have an '87 front wheel drive 5 speed I removed the AC on, redid some stuff...the car was an Airport Subaru in Miami. Anyway I started it up and ran it, just I haven't put fan on it yet. May be I'll do that tomorrow. And wire those two together. Cars I've removed the AC from no problem disconnecting anything. All 5 speed DR 4WD GL's. '86, 87, 89, then the Loyale. I did a Turbo Traction Wagon, bought the car for the motor and running gear. Anyway. Tuneed it up with a new radiator and ran it some. Haven't put the electric fan back on it so hard to say on that one. It's an '88. This one had the inboard alt so it just stayed on its own bracket. Removed the comp no problem. Shorter belt, that's it. Doug

My Loyale is unplugged from the upper white connector. Fan works normal. Doug

It does have a skidplate...still laying on the garage floor. I know...dumb@@@. Insert red face. I've even got a brace from the skidplate to the bumper...still on the floor. I guess I'll stick them on since I'm going to be under there anyway:) Doug

:mad:I bashed in the front valance panel and oil pan on my "new" Loyale 4 wheeling. 60 miles after putting tags on it. I'd need a lift to go where I did again. Doug

Which exact model number do you have? You have a FI motor with the optical distributer, a crank angle sensor. I'm taking a not fully informed guess and am thinking you hook the white wire to the ignitor output... Doug

It's been a while since I did this but IIRC that's actually a pin within a pin that needs to be punched out. Someone please correct that if it's wrong. Doug

IIRC, last one of these I did, put it up on car ramps pulled the pan and filter off and just let it sit untill it stopped dripping. It took a while but I put just shy of 4 quarts in to refill. If that pan hasn't been off since new, you'll most likely find a pile of stuff in it that should be cleaned out. Most likely it has a magnet laying on the bottom of the pan. Of course this "may" require a new gasket, but the filter is cleanable and reuseable. No big deal to drop the pan on these but not doing it is easier. Your call, of course. hth Doug

Yea, second that. Berto, some have posted about JB Welding for the valve cover bolt and that may be an option for you. I have enough spares that I just replace them. Odds are, the aluminum cam case is cracked. Seen it many times. I've saw them with multiple cracks in them. Here's hoping for a JB kind of fix. Doug