crazyman03

Meow?

i wouldn't even know where to start to be honest. I've never messed with an A/C system whatsoever. -Justin

'91 Lego 2.2 4eat. would this drier be behind the glovebox? -Justin

So here's an interesting question. My A/c isn't blowing as cold as it was before. Normally, i would just toss it off as a simple refrigerant issue.. but quick question first though. Before, i would hear clicking (I'm assuming relays) under the dash on the passenger side. Sounded like they were turning on/off the condenser? I noticed that when they click the engine would get a load like the compressor is kicking on/off. I don't hear them much anymore, at all even. Would this be because I'm low on freon? The compressor is still spinning. (not just the pulley, but the clutch is engaged). and when I press the AC button there is a load on the engine. -Justin

it would be rather funky to see a error code for the key being bad. Maybe being tampered with? double check the underbelly of the dash to see if any wires were mucked with. the ignition wires are bundle of 5 or 6 wires of thick gauge on the right side of the steering column. there is a connector around there too.. double check it to be sure. starter switch sounds like the actual actuator in the starter itself not kicking on.. but that's my view of it . -Justin

how does your dash look? do you have an immobilizer installed? its possible they tried hot wiring it and failed. -Justin

i had an almost exactly the same situation when i picked up my '91 (just last month) the guy said it didnt run hardly, if it did and sold it to me for cheaper than dirt (150$). I redid the timing and voila! she ran like a champ again!. Depending on the number of miles on the car, you probably should just re-do the timing with a new belt (OEM There by the way, the timing marks are perfect and belts are better), and water pump. Timing is rather easy if you've done it before. It was a much easier job with an extra set of hands. if you get an OEM belt, simply align the marks from the belt to the marks on the cams and crank (iirc) tension as you go when it was all said and done i spent 40 bucks total on my car and its running like a champ. there are tons of articles online on how to time, i even found one with pictures which for an idjit like myself worked out well.. -Justin

I had a similar issue where the axle was new. I took my GL wheeling and suddenly it started jerking to the right. i thought it was something snaging the tire to the tie-rods or something.. put the parking brake on, put it in gear and saw the shaft spinning. Sucks.. but happens. -Justin

talked to my buddy about the car and we are thinking about trying OEM on the MAP sensor. He did replace it with checker auto special few months ago and that's when it started doing this. about 6 months ago she had a CEL for the map sensor failing.. he cleaned it, put it back in and it was fine. it did it again replaced it and now this. also, its doing a CEL Po107 saying low input voltage. so we are hoping replacing it might fix it.. edit: replacing it with OEM MAP sensor. -Justin

We've tried that but the code clears before we get a chance to do that. they plug it in and it says no errors. -Justin

So my sister has '00 Lego GT with the EJ2.5, Automatic. the problem she is having is it likes to stall out on turns. Not always not real pattern just occasionally it likes to do it. It was throwing a CEL pointing to MAP Sensor, replaced it thought it was hinky dory THEN now its doing this. I did a bit of searching and read up on somthing about the MAF sensor was courious as to how it would affect the performance of the engine on turns. Any ideas? When it stalls out it doesnt always throw a CEL. The light also goes off before i get a chance to plug it in and check it. and it doesnt always stay on. Does the old-school method work on these cars on pulling the code? (plugging in connectors under the dash?) Ideas? -Justin

oil change did the trick. I was planning on doing it anyway but that worked out. Next question though. I'm needing to get plates for the little roo and have a CEL pointing to the knock sensor. rather than just replace it (no $$) is there a way to get the light to shut up for 20 minutes? just long enough to do emissions and call it good? -Justin

So I just got back into town last night from another trip up to Wyoming (Cheyenne, Casper, Rock springs, Evanston, then back home). During the trip, My little '91 Lego ran like a champ! She shifted smooth, had decent power going up the hills (it was bad.. in my '88 GL, semi's were passing ME going up hills :-\). Every time I stopped for gas I let the engine run for a minute or two (using the turbo/shortun option on the alarm). Weather or not this was necessary doesn't matter much... I just felt after a 300 mile strait drive i should let it sit for a few seconds . I checked the Crank pulley to make sure it was still true as well as other things and closed up. Good, Good and Good. Get back into Colorado and fill up around Loveland/Ft collins.. get out of the car and notice a /slight/ tick.. not loud much but noticeable. Get home and park it, the tick is almost as loud as it was on my GL! I was under the impression that the EJ22's didn't tick unless something was terribly wrong. I was planning on doing another oil change when i got back home, and throw some Seafoam in there. would that clean it up? maybe some 10w30? -Justin

hot damn tom! that looks NIIICEE!!! -Justin

Yea, it looks pretty slick! I have a sheet of probably 4'x3' probably 1/2" MDF sitting outside I could probably use. I used it for a couple speaker boxes i built for the jeep. I might have to sand it down to a manageable thickness but should work. Still waiting to figure out what I'm going to do about a deck. I wouldn't mind using my little pioneer one but i wouldn't be able to mount it like i want to. Still trying to find a deck cage that i can use. but in all due time. I'm also looking to barter for a double din dvd. If i found a decent one i'd probably ditch the carputer. lol. Unless it had a VGA Input and touch output lol -Justin

the way you are going to want to do this is just as simple. using the same sockets and bulbs (the dual ones you got) wire the additional filament to a relay that kicks over when the turn signal is on. that way, when the signal light is on, it activates the relay. when the relay is activated it puts power to the light.. then kicks off when the blinker flashes each time. the power wire that you use can have its own 10a fuse (or 5 really) and is wired directly to the battery. this will require 2 relays (one for each side) but would be your best bet. if you wanted an alternating setup... you could keep the single filament setup, wire it completly to the relay and have the light turn off when the blinker is on. this however wouldn't work if you didn't have the parking lights on. -Justin

Yea, there are many options that you can do with a carputer. depending on the phone you have, you can do the Bluetooh call through your carputer. (depending on the software you run on the carputer too) with Centrafuse, you simply plug an external mic into the computer like normal, and just tether your phone to the computer like you normally would for like file transfers and such. Just as long as you have the "hands free gateway" option for your phone, it will use the computer's mic and speakers for your phone. cash is pretty much the problem so i cant really spend cash on it. the carputer, LCD cables and such is pretty much what i had around the house. (i have an extra tower, if anyone wants it. also VGA cables and such.) I have a Pioneer deck probably 3 or so years old but i don't have the metal cage that it slides into anymore. the way i want to build it, now, is try a MDF mod to the dash, cut out a spot for the LCD and an area for the deck (countersink the cutout for the deck so that its not protruding out very far). question, what would be a good method for making the LCD trim and the MDF trim look as one? would bondo work well in this case? I've used it for plastic on plastic applications but never plastic+wood. Is it pretty much the same way? the reason i ask is i dont want it to look like crap when i'm done. nor do i want the bondo chiping through the paint because the wood isn't adhering to it well. I want the wood ( or whatever i use for the trim) to just be a smooth transition to the LCD screen itself. no crease, no cracks.. ya know? -Justin

i would say unplug it and see if that helps. it really seems like its a horn. try the soap deal. the schreaking sound under a hood is normal when belts start to go out. mainly because the surface of the belts (and pulleys) become smooth and slip.. (not really a bad thing) but they make that sound too. -Justin

it kinda looks like the horn to me. in an odd place but still looks like the horn. are there wires going to it or vacuum lines? anything at all? if there are wires, it could be something of that nature (horn,alarm speaker) and it could be shorting out causing the sound. is the sound mechanical? an electronicish sound? maybe sounding like if a banshee screamed into a loudspeaker? -Justin

lol, nooooooo i'm not going to do that. I do have speakers in the car at the moment. I took the speakers out of my GL before they took it. and they sound a little decent. -Justin

By the way. My stereo plans are going to take some time since i've not much money. and I'm not removing anything out of my jeep. (it has 1x Dub 12" 1k watts 2ch bridged, 400w RMS 4ch Infinity Component speakers up front and 5x's in the back, 100watts RMS to each door) mainly, because the wife would kill me.. she drives the jeep now. My Plan is.. Infinity Components up front, Tweats on the dash, Components in the rear doors (yes, the doors), and 5x's in the rear. 1 JL or Alpine type-R 10" or 12". 6ch Amp preferred for the mid's and a 1/2 ch for the sub. Now, this is what the plan is lol. actuality is probably going to be way off. its probably going to take quite a while to build. $$ and all.. -Justin

I had actually thought of doing a single screen and no Head Unit at all but i still kinda like the functionality of one. I found a Deck that was pretty nifty. It was a Video player but had no screen. it required an external screen. (Linky) I realize it was very simple and not all that technical but it did everything i wanted. Had an aux input in the back and an aux input+video in the front. So that i could run a dvd/mp3/cd and radio completely external from the computer. I wouldn't mind running an amp to my speakers strait from an amp. I would actually prefer it. But i have no monies to do anything like that so i have to keep it simple for now. I had looked into cutting an MDF insert for the dash for the screen and deck. Its going to be a little interesting bonding the wood to the plastic screen trim. At the moment, the computer is setup to "power on after a power loss". At the moment when i hibernate the computer, i just kill the power to the inverter. (little switch on the dash now). I'm going to try making something that will auto on/off the computer. At the moment, I need to get a bigger battery. The battery doesn't have enough juice to start the car and keep the computer live once the relay switches on with ACC power. -Justin

We don't call it "screwing up" we call it "testing the waters" I'm pretty sure if there is *anything* Subaru related that you've broken and don't know how to fix it.. you can find the answer around here to fixing it. They are some brainiacs around here edit: and that's not sarcasm either.. of all the car forums, this is the best! btw, welcome. Nice to see someone from my neck of the woods! -Justin

Actually not as much as i thought. I did have to disable the floor vents on that side of the car because i didn't want the heater getting the compy too hot. I used the tower stand that comes with the computer. It raises it up about an inch or two and it also acts as a somewhat shock absorber since the computer itself isn't touching the carpet. Pic: The Next thing i'm working on is getting a automatic on/Off setup. At the moment, I have the BIOS setup to "Power On after Power Loss" so when i shut down the comptuer i simply cut the power to the power inverter when i'm done. Mainly because the computer still has i guess what you could call standby power where the peripherals still have power, the Fans still go for a second or two. so I wanted to make sure i didnt walk out to a dead battery. (you cant exactly "pop the clutch" on an automatic:rolleyes:) So far its a tossup between a multi-relay system thats on the cheap side (like 3 bucks.. Linky ) that i found on mp3car where it will power on/off the system by the button when there is/isn't power. I like the simplicity and the price but, i also dont want a dead battery. I had a thread earlier talking to "987687" (linky) where he talked about a 555 timer and hooking it up where it kills the inverter when not necessary. that sounds a little more what i'm looking for. but we will see.. $$ is a big deal for me. I'm broke, married and have a kid. projects only go as far as how well i can barter. (i'm running out of things to trade though :-\) Lol sorry for the Novel! -Justin

Lol yea, they can be depending on how you do it. linky to the system I did a simple little setup like that.. it was a 1ghz amd box. worked nice when i had it in my jeep. -Justin