crazyman03

Wow, missed a page there.. To add, if you want a cheap method to sound deadening, you can use spray can insulation. Is very light weight and stops all rattles. I did a monster install on a 89(ish) gl15. I used "grace ice and water shield" its similar to dynamat or hush mat, but much cheaper. I did 3 layers on the entire cab of the wagon on 300 bucks worth of mat, roof floors and doors. But yea, as for weight, you won't notice it. I didnt start noticing until I had 500 lbs of speaker box in the back thouh, i did have a 5-speed ea82 lol -Justin

Courious on the power coard, did you run the black to neg and white to posi? Or did you just run both to the positive and do a similar method at the amp to the ground/chassis? I only ask because if you did, the overall gauge of the wire with the two conductors would be a similar equivalent to a 8 ish gauge - which is more than sufficient for your 300w amp. If you left the "ground"(green) wire in there you would be even closer to a 4 ish... -Justin

i was thinking CV as well. I had one go completely out on me and the boot was still intact. I wouldnt've believed it, but i put it in gear and saw the shaft spin and not the tire. -Justin

+1 thats what i was leaning toward, unless he was saying it was actually overheating. the A/C fan is more likley to turn on than the main fan. simply because its not hot enough. -Justin

Hows the engine temp? I'm assuming it is overheating and that is why you are looking into the problem? -Justin

did you find anything out? -Justin

+1 yea, its the simple things that make a huge difference. Plugs, wires and an air filter might be a good start for it. -Justin

i get about 23-25 MPG mixed.. depending on how I drive it. can see probably 25-27 highway.. if i did enough highway driving. -Justin

here's a few updated ones.. in front of my new Impreza - Hard at work - -Justin

it would be best if you left your original post and added a new post about what you did to fix the problem. Its kind've annoying to search around on the internet, find a forum with the topic you're looking for only to find that the original poster deleted their information. -Justin

.. ish.. this should get you somewhere.. http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/1985.html always remember to probe your wires before you assume anything. -Justin

I figured it was something along those lines. I just thought to check to be sure. thanks! -Justin

So yesterday, my sister asked my buddy and I to take a look at her '00 legacy GT 2.5 before she took it on a little 4 hr road trip to Kansas. Looked at the oil, looked at the coolant, belts etc. Saw that the serpentine could use replacing.. thought, heh lets have a look at the timing belt.. there's 160 some odd thousand miles on it, why not? Pop open the cover to find a (very) cracking belt. ok, no big deal, go over to checkers and get a timing kit (tensioner, pulleys), and also pick up a water pump. Since the belt was still there, we lined up the marks all around for ease of timing. Pull off the belt and notice the passenger side Cam has a lot of spin play, you can turn it almost 3 teeth without a wrench - compared to the driver side, where its not as easy to and defiantly need a wrench if you needed to turn. I was thinking that since it was TDC, #1 would be open for the intake valve? and thats why its hard to spin between the "peaks" of the cam? and that the passenger side is on the "lows" of the cam and why its easier to turn? (at that point at least, we didn't sit there and spin it to see.. My buddy was thinking it was maybe a stuck valve? any ideas? There isnt any noticeable performance difference.. put the belt and everything on there and it fired up like a champ. -Justin

Also, what happens if you were to down-shift to D1 while traveling say 15 or 20 MPH? does it try to slow itself down? if not, like they were saying, I'd say its likely the transmission, or something in the area at least.. -Justin

Variety IS the spice of life, But Subaru's are the secret ingredient! Welcome to the forum! -Justin

Well, I found out that the little switch DID in fact go to some sort of keyless module, and there were actuators in the doors - after market of course! I also found out why it didn't work anymore... someone cut the wires to the actuators, the switch, and removed the module. D'oh! It was obviously after market because there was speaker wire ran to each of the doors and was ran under the steering column, where they were cut. I was thinking, since the actuators were still in the doors and the wires already ran, I can wire up a couple relays and make my own automatic locks . Then if and when i do get some sort of alarm going, i'll already have the relays working for me ;-) -Justin

So I just got a '95 Impreza LX, and it was my impression that it didnt come with automatic locks. Well, there's a switch on the driver door that looks like it might toggle lock/unlock - Least, it would be completely out of place if it didn't, though it doesn't do anything at the moment. short of pulling the door apart, I've looked all over under the dash trying to find a key-less entry module but to no avail. Did they make an Optional keyless entry for this car? If so, where did they stash it so i can check fuses? -Justin

Well, I think I lucked out! the studs for the exhaust were non-existant on the side that was not attached. I have a set of gaskets to pick up tomorrow.. 'bout 10 bucks, and i'm going to install them. Now if only I had funds to get the plates and a back window! I've been looking around some pull yards 'round town and nada :-/ Anyway, thats the update! -Justin

Hello Everyone! Guess who has 2 thumbs and has another Subaru? THIS GUY! A '95 Impreza LX Its been a while since I have posted on here, though I have been snooping around. I posted a while back about a friend's car who had her back window busted out by some random a-hole. Well, she couldnt find a replacement and, along side an "exhaust" leak she was getting sick of the car. So in flies me and I scoop up this car for 400 bucks! It runs pretty decently.. after brief examination, the "exhaust leak" seems to just be that the exhaust manifold isnt attached on the driver side of the block so, it bellows and makes a lot of noise.. i figure, if i bolt it back up, it should run pretty decent for a 400$ car! As for the back window, I still need to measure it out, but i'm thinking at worst, pick up a piece of plexi glass from Home-Depot and Sili-glue it on the back. Anyway, enough talking, here's some pictures. -Justin

neat!, do they have a Dodge d50 down there? its pretty much the same thing engine and body. Today i took out the 1:1 bolt-on radiator fan and put in a electric fan off of a Integra. I put it on a relay and attached it to the "run" position on the key so that when the car is on it'll be on with it and on a switch so i can turn it off if i'm running too cold. I'll try and get some pictures of it tomorrow. -Justin

s.o.l. being S*it out of luck. Eeh, theres a lot of people who mod their cars there but mostly "slamming" them and putting hydrolics on them lol -Justin

yea.... that maxd50 site doesn't seem to have much as far as help. Least, not compared to usmb :-/. I still haven't gotten any replies to my intro post. I've replied to a couple threads and started 2. all I've gotten was a .. nope... sorry you are s.o.l. :-S -Justin

2000 Grand cherokee 4.7 '87 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 2.0 -Justin

Pretty neat oneeye.. maybe shave down the front a bit and put some sheet metal and smooth it out? what did you do with the seats and interior? -Justin

I'm going to have to remember that site when it comes to replacing the bulbs in my jeep. that's pretty cheap! -Justin