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Everything posted by crazyman03
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hmm.. its going to be a while before i can do this i'm thinking. Now, I'm vexed with another problem. Sell the car before it gets too bad and use the money to actually pay-off my other vehicle and then use the monthly payment monies to get another later? (other car would be paid off jan/feb) or.. Limp it around (being forced to, cant have just one car) until i can afford the parts. Hopefully it doesn't get too worse? Ideas? I'd hate to keep replacing t-belts because the crank pulley keeps chewing it up. oh! speaking of which, is the crank gear (the one that the t-belt goes to), is it all one piece with the crank itself? or could i replace just the gear so i can get something with a key-way? -Justin
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So i was looking online for a replacement (swapout) motor for my '91 lego and found another ej22 on C.L. for 500 bucks- its off a '99 Forester (linky) the ad says its a 8-Bolt? I was wondering what that meant. and would it still bolt on to my '91? I'm sure I'll have to take electronics and possibly the intake off my old engine to make this work but more importantly would the engine work for me? -Justin
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So a few things are going on with my new '91 Lego. I went down and just came back from Florida last week and was having issues with oil staying in my block for one - watching occasional blueish and white smoke come out the tailpipe. My crank pulley key-way is broke, actually broke off the crank so now i need to replace that I'm sure. (as well as the timing belt, the wobbly pulley chewed up the t-belt pretty bad) So I have a few questions - I was thinking of rebuilding the block simply because I'm burning oil so i wanted to redo my rings, do my front/back seals, bearings, valve seals, cover gaskets, head gaskets etc etc. my question is, am i wrong? is it something else that's causing my issues and a rebuild is overkill? the biggest question is: how much, if i did a complete (might as well do it while i'm there) rebuild, would it cost me including all of the above replaced? and what would be more practical to replace? also, where would i get the best quality for the buck on parts? I dont have a whole lot of money to spend on it so i want to make it count. -Justin
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I helped someone off the road by giving them a jump a couple times. .. ... Only to find that my Oil cap was NOT ON!!! Luckily, it was still sitting on the little plastic engine cover (ya know, the EJ22 plastic 16valve thingie) I dont know how it was still on there but it was.. yea.. spitting oil all over my engine was not a fun thing to find. -Justin
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i would've used it on the car! there was a nice guy that happen to have a 3 foot hydrolic jack handle that we used.. should've just put that stupid notch in there when you were there.. but alas! you live and learn. to add insult to injury... my HDD on my carputer died so i replaced that too while down there.. and when i got home.. my 500 Gig movie HDD (that was full of movies btw) is toast! -Justin
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Well, made it home. Yea.. Remember when that key-way broke and i said "well, lets tighten the crap out of the bolt and i'll replace the cog when i get home... yea... it got lose about 4 hours outside of Jacksonville. I was driving down the highway (obviously..) and my dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Now first, i thought i broke my alternator belt.. nope. the crank pulley came lose and was free spinning which, after chanting the "lefty losey righty tighty" you will realize that, well DUH! of coarse it came lose. but we tightened the crap out of it!!?!?!? so.. luckily, the new pulley was still there.. AND the bolt thank god! (even though i had an extra). anyway, here's the fun part. so i figured well crap! if its going to do that if i just wrench it down.. I'm going to try and put that key-way back in. thumb it around.. thumb it around.. drop it into the timing cover.. lands, of coarse, right on the timing belt. so, great! take the cover off. only to find *drum roll please* my timing belt is shot to crap! its been slowly ripping itself apart and now i have fiberglass/rubber/whatever dust all over inside the cover. AND my timing belt is just about had it. take out the key-way that fell in. put it back together *crossing fingers that the timing can just get me home* PLUG up the opening where the key-way fell into last time. thumb it in there tight, line up the crank pulley get it to sit and CRANKED THAT SUCKER DOWN!! no more free spin! so yea, that was the chronicles of my trip home. nothing like taking apart the front part of your car on the side of the road:mad:. And the wife wondered why i brought tools "Oh, you'll never need them the car is fine!" naturally i would've agreed, and I always have my tools on me but this time, I'm really glad. On a side note, I really noticed it burning oil this trip.. I've fed it probably 3 or 4 qts there and the same back. also, when the cruse would down-shift to go up a hill you really saw it puff out the rear. I'm going to compression test it here soon and retire the old lego for a bit. -Justin
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well on the way.. not so much rain. It was humid as hell since my A/C doesnt work. I found out just before leaving that my main raid. fan doesnt work . but if i turn the A/C on.. the secondary fan kicks in. so that works.. of coarse.. my wife went and drove the car today to meet some old buddy's of hers.. and she flippin overheated it. *grumble grumble* "whats the yellowish stuff pouring out of the bottom of the car? is that bad??" so.. hopefully, it just bubbled up and was draining out of the resovoir. anywho.. yea. in jackson at the moment leaving friday (hopefully :-\) little white '91 lego from colorado. probably the only one around here. off of Exit 5B and 294? -Justin
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Chrome is just a film-ish chemical reaction that goes over the bumper. they dip it in multiple chemicals basically, until it shines. so iirc, you could sand it down a little or completely off so you have a good base to paint on. -Justin
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it hasnt lost any power at all. as a matter of fact, it seems, its been driving a bit better. This is the 2nd oil change i've done on it I've only had the car 2 months or so (just plated it). When i got it i changed it, drove it for a bit and put seafoam in for a bit, then drained it again.. well before the normal change.. both times i got ~4.5-5 qts.. -Justin
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well to be honest, i don't really check the oil between changes. I usually do the norm 3k between. 4.5k at the verrry most. Each time i change oil on any of my cars, i do oil and filter at the same time. edit: wix filter i checked the oil at different spots, after running, after it sitting. yes on a flat surface. i even jacked up the side of my car to make it level. and like i said, i measured it in the jug when i drained it. -Justin
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well, i just came inside from changing the oil. only about 2 qts came out. (I poured the oil into one of those gallon jugs) I'm always watching the back to see if i'm puffing at all.. My old GL did a lot and i was always watching it. my wife drove behind me today.. nothing. wouldn't, if i was burning oil, i fail emissions?. I also watched them drive it and didnt notice smoking either. there's 240k on the engine. maybe 2k on the timing belt, and 2k since last oil change. i did both around the same time. edit: i looked under there really good and there was no new oil marks. dry as a bone. I washed it good when i got it so i could watch if i was leaking at all -Justin
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So a month or so back I started a thread about a ej22 ticking. I changed the oil, and there was at least 4qts or so of oil that came out the engine. I'm already getting the tick again, and while driving home the tick got louder, and i started heating up real bad. checked the dipstick and i was bone dry?!? I'm not leaking oil (no drip spots), block is clean, and i just passed emissions 2 days ago so I'd think I'd fail if i was burning oil? Ideas? I'm going to go get a change tonight, drain, and see for sure how much oil is actually in there. I'm not smoking, not dripping, and the coolant looks clean too! -Justin
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ok, so.. I put a DMM on the wires found +12 on 2 and +12 on the other 2. 1(+12) 2(+12) 3 4 I jumpered 2 and 3, and the clutch kicked in for a split second. no blown fuse, nothing. Just on and now I cant get it do it again. I went to the auto part store and asked if they had a guage to put on the system to measure how much pressure i had. (y'a know, to see if i'm crazy and i'm actually low on freon). Well.. they dont sell 'em individually. But they do sell them with a can of r134a :-\. Quick question.. The A/C worked great one day blowing really nice and cold and literally, the next day, it stopped. I feel there is something that I did to it that caused it to stop working. for some odd reason (don't ask why i had the wild hair to do this) i unplugged the clutch for a second while the engine was on. I wouldn't think it would've caused a problem.. but could it? maybe damage a relay when i plugged it back in? Right after i did that it stopped working, now that i think of it i noticed it the next day.. but i noticed it a bit right after i did that. I'm crazy arent i? -Justin
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lol I dont really "Play" with it while driving. I just use the centrafuse interface so i can quickly access music and movies while driving. the text is big so i dont need to squint down to see it. Its kinda neat. maybe I'll make a vid of it. during the day its not that bad.. there's a bit of a glare off your clothes and hands but not really that bad. I really love it! I just need to get more music to put on it. I dont really play an album or artist cd.. i usually play everything and hit next if i dont like the track -Justin
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do this: With a DMM (digital Multi-meter), pick a favorite song, and meter the speaker wires at the deck. then, meter at the door. Now, i know that its going to be speratic since a song changes tones, voltage etc.. but from the sound of it, it would be a drastic voltage difference. What they mean by "block connector" is usually, there is a "big a$5 plug" that goes between the door and the wire boot (that thing in the door jam). They use them so that removing the door is made easier. double check to make sure it is secure and that wires going to/from it are not wobbly. you might try unplugging and re plugging it in. the tweaters are more than likley 1" and probably are removable by a Flathead screwdriver. be carefull though. they unusually are held in by thin plastic clips. To me, it sounds like both speakers are blown. but to double check.. look at the wiring at the speaker, inspect the speaker itself too. one thing you can do to rule out the wire harness (or the wire going to the door) is by taking some speaker wire to the speaker itself and try it on the deck directly. this will tell you for sure if the speaker is dead, or if the deck just happens to be bad. (you can also test the speaker on a home theater.. or stereo. wire it in and see if it makes noise) -Justin