moosens

That would be much more easy to take than a transmission swap. Uncalled for rain just came through and my day is done anyways. Will jack it up tomorrow or ASAP.

Ok I just learned a little from my 2003 owners manual while looking through that for it’s own issues. Now I see the new fangled method of that little screw where there once was a push switch.

Still learning this generation. Have to read the manual to find the FWD fuse thing.

Live report! Start car - no dashboard lights at all and engine sounds fine and not other noises at all. Put into drive and hear noise. Different kind of noise. Rolls back until I gas it some. Engaged fine and idle went up a tad. If I don’t gas it it will roll back. Car goes forward but begins to slip very soon while on a slight incline. Still in AWD at this time. It will now drive around the lot fairly well at times. But it clunks into function. Now the AT oil temp light is flashing quickly. Car slips then clunks into function in drive. It will reverse but acts about the same with slipping some until engaging with a thump. Eeek , just put it into park and glad no neighbors are around to hear that ratcheting noise. Last a couple seconds. Has to be the pawl. Going to run errands and maybe get back later.

Already know about the little switch at the head of the shifter. Will discuss that later. Wondering if there’s a vacuum related issue that causes this car to not want to get out of park and into any other selection. Recent issue, just seems to be getting worse. I can or until recently could just pump the brake pedal a couple times and you’d feel the pedal settle into its spot that will then release the shifter. But these last 48 hours or so things seem to be getting worse. I’ve had to pump the brakes a lot. I mean like when I’m at work I’m worried that somebody is going to think I have some medical issue or something with my brakes going on and off so much. Last night a guard drove over to me but at that last second the pedal went fully and I could move. So I looks pathetic when I’m trying to disengage park. Ok about that little switch. Past experiences I never noticed what I see in this car. There’s a screw head (Phillips) and that doesn’t seem to move. What am I failing to see there. Doesn’t look like the other automatic Subarus we’ve had. I found no success trying to push that down. Maybe I should read the manual !! But that’s why we have these cool conversations. Thanks !

Yes , I agree and had thought about the parking lock out with the ratcheting. Yes it does want to roll back in park. Will check all that in a bit. Thanks ! There was a torn axle boot and I replaced that axle. But that side had what I consider excessive movement at the stub. Parking pawl sounds like we’re on to something. I also have a recall for the airbags. Something I need to look into that I had no idea of - the parking pall issue. Thanks again. It’s quiet here now and parking spaces are more abundant so I’ll take the car around the lot and try to give a better report.

Ahh but the car sits so low and before anything Jesse advised me it’ll be super difficult from the ground to see if it was the same issue as our other 2003. Can’t really do much here at home. Life as a condo owner so doing all that fun stuff here at home is risky. Jesse is busy so that car will either have to go to some shop I’m not friends with or find a location I can do my own thing. Last year we had a family property with a garage. This year “un cazzo” , my friend moved , etc etc So some shop may get my money. Not that I don’t like supporting small businesses. F&S shows at least two transmissions. One for $200 and one for $2k that’s a rebuild. Since I got a super deal on this car and it’s still looking so sweet I’m willing to fork the dough. Just don’t have time and space. I’m already pushing things here with my 79 wagon. Should have sold this place months ago.

No lift yet. Oil pan should be fine. Hopefully I can make a little time for this car today and get better account.

Seems there’s good options locally for a transplant.

Low mile car. Bought from folks we had seen every day. Well kept , etc etc only 109k right now maybe 110k. It’s the nicest looking one of these around. LSi I think it is. Can move the car around the parking lot carefully. But not taking it in the road as is. I want to say the Big Bang and real issue occurred fairly close to home so I limped it back alive. Since then only moving it a couple times in our lot. It will engage in drive after a few seconds maybe but it’s not the old slipping transmission. There was noise leading up kind of like the U joint on the prop shaft like I had go wrong on our other 2003 but a wagon. So I was abusing it now looking back. Kept it local and have AAA Plus. When it is put in drive it’ll eventually drive the car forward with a jolt and doesn’t do well on inclines like a worn clutch. This is an automatic. But I somehow manage to get it up small inclines. It will make some noises as it rolls but what really stood out was the latest moves it would make a loud metal ratcheting sound when I put it into Park. I shut it down fast and then restarted to see if it was still going to ratchet and it did not. Just started and idled nicely. I recall recently changing a front axle and didn’t like that there was a considerable amount of movement at the stub axle going into the box. Thanks for any help.

Sure, I would reuse it.

Yes I also used plastic scrapers where I was concerned.

It’s tough these days. You’ve got folks that just concede that they’ll be replacing axles often just because you can’t find quality. And then there’s the folks that devote the time and expenses to repack or rebuild their own axles. You can buy ball bearings. I kind of wish I was one of those guys. But lack or time and place to work and I’m in the same boat as you. Assuming you’re not going to do an axle rebuild. Non answer so far, but I’d consider getting a cheap replacement and keep your old one to rebuild or send out. If your old axle lasted a long time it may be worth the effort. Post your results please. I have a few axles coming up from 1979 through 2006 various generations.

Good to see you here after many years. Best of luck with the tail light lens. Brat stuff gone through the roof lately. Hope your brother is also still around and doing well. Cheers! Paul

I’m not family with the kit you had bought. But since you’re likely looking at pulling it all apart again I’d start with being sure it’s installed correctly no matter how sure you are. Step one out of the way I’d go with Atsugi or Paraut for plate and disk if possible. Kits these days ? Hmmm kind of tough. It’s my opinion that you’d do better to build your own. There used to be LuK clutch kits for 70’s and early 80’s. Maybe your era too. But if building a kit I’d go with Japanese made parts from that era. And folks like Atsugi and Paraut are suppliers to Subaru OEM. Good name throw out bearing and you’ll be back on the road. Good luck.

Getting the widget was not a loss. I am currently battling a 79 wagon that was tucked away in 1981 and for some reason put on jackstands in 89 and somewhere in that period the previous owner had taped the windows , etc and proceeded to primer grey paint half the car or so. There’s more but for now we are all concerned with tape residue or adhesive, same deal, which has been in for way too long. Granted my car is an extreme example. But I’ve had huge success with the razor. Much much much less success with various household type solutions etc. Brand G as well. Just didn’t cut it. Working on metal I also found that using some Noxon metal polish the previous owner left with some other cleaning items, worked really well too. Try the solutions but don’t toss that razor.

Pack of four balls genuine Subaru on ebay. But they are one number off. That may be a superseded part number. Worth investigating. P/N 806007020 Seller in PA has a lot of genuine Subaru stock. “double_e_warehouse” In case the dealer can’t help.

Same spring , same gauge ? From the 1800 through the 2.5 ? That’s a long run. Good to know. I see them on flea bay. They do look the same. Those break too ! Maybe consider newer stock.

Ball size is listed as 7.9375 old part number - 8060 07010 Bypass valve. Does show a complete assy in the drawing but I don’t see an assy listed to buy from the catalog. the ball also shows as 2 required but my eyes can’t see there the second one goes.

Worse case you copy the other one as best as you can with the same gauge wire. But I’d search hard or ask folks if they have an extra one in their stash. I’ve been through my miscellaneous nuts n bolts boxes and none of those stand out in my mind. I’m sure I’m my 80’s period I had several. Good luck.

Thanks ! If it comes to any of that it’s going to a shop. I have no real space , minimal A/C equipment, and an extreme lack of spare time. Some repairs I don’t do. Doing the cheap guy thing and getting the spray can is about as far as I get with a/c. And for note, this car was my friend’s. He’s that guy that does everything right, even goes to church. Makes great money and covers all bases. So the car was always well maintained. It’s just at that age now.

Thanks Larry but let me dig further and get a recharge too. If I still have an issue I know where to find you. Humidity has lifted !! But a couple more dog days in the 10 day forecast. To me if you make it to the third week of September you no longer need a/c until mid May. Time is ticking.

There ya go ! Thanks Bennie. Now I need to find a couple longish boxes for yours and another guy’s. Talk to you soon.

Manual control. Heat is consistent throughout. Needs a recharge I’m sure but it’s still a weird one.

Right side vents blow a decent enough cold. Left side vents forget about it. Most odd to me. Explain mister Spock.