moosens

I mention the wheel sensor because it’s got the shakes (antilock pulsing) as soon as you brake for the most part. So I’m probably just going to buy a set of them for the fronts. But should I wait until I do the axle ? Will that fresh axle make any difference with the wheel sensor? At its age and given the price I don’t really have a problem with paying for new sensors. I’m just looking to avoid anything I don’t really need to do.

2006 Outback I think it’s a limited but anyways , i just replaced the tires mostly due to the right front wearing severely on the inner side of the tire. Install guy noted the axle to me. Alignment guy was able to get it set fine with just the right rear out a touch but within tolerance. I had told the alignment guy that there might be worn bushings etc and just let me know what he saw and do his best for now. (Tire shop , so they don’t replace parts.) Nothing was mentioned and only the axle was written up as a potential repair. So did our wearing axle cause that inner wear on that RF tire ? 40 plus years of Subarus and I don’t recall that happening. But I’m always decades behind as I’m that cheap guy extracting the last 100k from that aging Subaru. This car came from a friend who paid for what it needed in timely manner. Well kept and mechanically cared for.

Oh yeah , I’m a seasoned “importer” LOL but to date most everything of mine has come from inland PNW mostly around the Cascades and western Montana.

Thanks again. First day we’re likely to want to log some miles and get the heck out of the northeast. But anything can happen.

Very cool , thanks ! I’ll check with my son, but I think he mentioned 68 too. He did the reverse trip a couple years ago. I sure will send a PM if it looks solid that we can swing by your way.

Oh ! And also strongly considering 2000-2004 Legacy but prefer 2003-2000 with a real freaking throttle cable. Will consider a 2004 too but it’ll have a strike against it before I even show up.

Open to meeting (quickly unless you can offer a place to crash out) anyone along the magical route we haven’t quite finalized yet. Most likely working our way through the upper Midwest and then down I think 79 towards Denver. Always considering anything vintage and running or even close to running , or super solid body. If you know of something local or have something you want to off load please let me know and if along the way I will certainly stop by if I’m truly interested. And if you just want to meet up and shoot the dook for a little that’s cool too. Maybe even combine with a good junkyard you know of ?? My taste: 1970’s most anything , 1990-94 Legacy , early Impreza up to 2001 Outside chance you catch me on a good day and I may be a sucker for an 80’s dual range whatever. Was considering a run to CA but that might just become a long day trip or overnight around San Diego. Thereby smashing my dreams of hitting northern Cali and scoring a front bumper I want , etc etc etc And the rest of you are looking for a shiny green 2003 Legacy wagon , likely a blur in the highway. It’ll have Connecticut plates. Hopefully we drive past the red necks fast enough that they don’t see our plates and start throwing rocks at us. See ya !

Ok so my cousins will get it...

Pass the info along to me and I’ll buy it , give it a great home with NOS parts sitting on the shelf ready , and you won’t have to worry about supporting it. I’ll bear the load for you. And if this is along the route from CT to AZ I’ll pay for it now and pick it up around June 4,5th. I am very serious. I’m not a kid. My son and I are driving to AZ and I’m always willing to take a chance on a car like this one making it home. Also a first gen Legacy lover. Same as you I check the old stuff even though I’m supposed to be moving on. We still have our family truck 94 Outdoor Sport edition Legacy wagon. Currently runs great bit sits around at the moment. Have to park it under the camera because it’s loaded with 14” alloy wheels I haven’t scrapped yet. And maybe that is a sign for this car. Big smile ! Where is it ?

And I think it’s B&R sign and design. B and R Sign and Design. Like that ... cheers! http://bandrcom.com/banners.html

Some folks still have some originals. I might have a set but also sold off a bunch of them. And guys like Earl have a graphics business and already have produced some. Not sure he or anyone else has repro’d this exact script but I’d check around first and see. Much appreciate the enthusiasm and hope you do repro something, this set or other decals going forward. Certainly don’t be discouraged by my post. I think we need the clear “caution ....high idle ...” decal that came on the drivers inner door panel. Enjoy !

Both , but the spot most likely to show first would be the rear wheel arches and the sill closest to that same rear wheel. What happens is the wheel apron has a horizontal seam near the strut top and over time you get pinholes of rust through at that seam and it trickles down to the sill as well as the wheel arch. Happens inside , so no real rinsing is always going to keep it from occurring. When the wheels are off be sure to use some tar or whatever works for protection on that seam. Yes , I saw your other post after I this one. 1.8 , same deal , you have a fairly solid engine and hopefully it’ll be back in action soon. Shares much with the 2.2.

Wow great choice !! Have to assume it’s the 2.2 first generation single cam engine. Enjoy ! Vintage lover here and yours now fits that bill. That’s a sweet one getting sweeter with age. You know where to rinse them well and watch for rust , right ?

Nice choice ! Have fun here. Enjoy!

Awesome to me ! Thanks man ! The construction, engineering, functionality, economics, and so much more to say about that breed the ff1. Make something contemporary of the same effort. Change the inboard drums to disks. Make the so called heater a bit better. Use of carbon fiber. Could make a version of that now under 1000 lbs I’d guess. And it would scream with a Euro style 1300 turbocharged. Mini eater. Ok I’m a dreamer.

Cars101 ? Or equivalent. Try this please http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/

Welcome , wish I could post better news for you but my suggestion is to leave it , use it as intended , and try to just enjoy being in a true classic. And keep in mind that there are people out there , old farts to you probably , who would cherish a simplistic five speed with an 1800 engine normally aspirated. It’s an economical classic. Now the part you don’t want to hear. That engine just won’t accept all you wish to throw at it. I’m not going to take the time to explain but I’m confident someone else will explain why it’s just not going to happen. Converting it to 4WD is also going to be a chore. Best of luck. Enjoy your time with it.

Last call. Northeast USA might be something worth driving for to the right person. Hoping to have this Brat trashed very soon , like next couple of weeks at the latest. Not my property and I’m just not prepared to store it so please act soon if you want it. Sorry no pics here but you can email me at moosens@yahoo.com Make is soon ;)

All about finding and acquiring parts. Smoother ? Hmmm , these kind of are what they are to me. You have the dual range four speed ? I can’t recall when the automatic 4WD stared but I think the same era. How’s the third gear synchro ? Those are usually first to show. Automatics of that era get the hydraulic lifters should you ever find one in a yard. Vented rotors also come into play around then. Again , should you come across parts cars. More current owners are here and sadly on face booo too. Best of luck with it and enjoy !

Quick video but I would say you should be sure you have good oil pressure and even then don’t think that the oil always makes it to each and every lifter and fills it. Even after a new oil pump and of course fresh seals you can still hear that last lifter in the oil trail making noise. Solution is to rev it up and don’t be fearful - go up towards the redline but of course don’t exceed it , just maybe hold it at 5k until you hear that lifter quiet down. Best of luck. Enjoy!

Better to have DL headlights for sure. Enjoy !

A fellow on the FB Vintage Subaru groups has hubs for sale. I made sure to buy a set even though I’m currently not running a 70’s Subie. I will be soon and I’m glad I have my back up set now. Notorious issue and as these cars get older expect it to show more.

These past couple of years I’ve become keen on this generation. Had two parts cars already , both of which show frustrations with the stock unit. One was a direct swap from a junk yard car I’d guess and the one I chose swap into my daily driver is a Sony unit. The Sony works great but I still have an issue where the right speaker cuts out. Ok now pay attention here. Regardless of which radio it takes a Fonzie style three whacks on the side to make the unit turn back on with the Old Stock Unit and now with the Sony at least it doesn’t seem to cut power like the last one but it still DOES cut out the Right speaker. Not to confuse ya more but the old stock unit as mentioned above would cut out power all together , and at times losing the station presets , but it would also cut out the Right speaker as the Sony is doing. I saw nothing from having the unit out during the swap that would give me any reason to think my Fonzie whacks actually cause a re-connection because I don’t see any wires over on that side. Is this common among this generation Legacy ?

Glad you got your price ! Be well !

What I can add to this is we have a 1993 2.2 which can read zero oil the first couple of minutes almost and then later will show actual level. This caused a full serve guy (sorry but my wife uses full serve) over filling the engine once. Like significantly. None of our older Subarus ever had this problem. Seems to me these newer engines can be a bit retentive when checking oil quickly after stopping. I have begun to crack the filler cap open to breathe is out a bit and hope the best. As for level ground, Have a ball ? Dog toy in our case. Place the ball down and watch if it rolls. Carry a cheapie HF torpedo level if it’s that critical. A little degree or two should not cause a huge difference.