moosens

So when you start the car and it still ticks you just rev the pee out of it until that last lifter in the oil trail gets filled. Don’t panic upon initial start ticking. Others have traveled your path. and so be sure to have a good, well sealed oil pump. Best of luck !

Drive it down to Kim Discount Muffler on State St Ext. in Bridgeport CT , bring cash , you’ll leave legal and content for cheap. Perhaps you have a local similar type of place you just haven’t explored yet. Didn’t check to see where in Mass. you are but I’d bet there’s a small shop like I mentioned around Springfield or Worcester or Bahstin

I’m sure I’ll get by but was hoping to have someone share their similar experience or that of someone they know or have learned from. For sure I’ll be scraping out the oil pan. Just mostly wondering about flushing the passages. I will have this engine out and oil pan off and heads off.

Also depends which transmission you’re using. Automatic or manual. Are you mating this to something other than what came originally?

Unquestionably the engine is coming out. 1979 1600 Would like to avoid splitting the cases. Can I hand crank and flush well enough ? No workshop , not much space.

I’ll add that that cars we find now for $500 are full of industry planned obsolescence and inconvenience to the backyard mechanic compared to the awesome $500 beaters I was able to pick up right through the 2000’s. Different world now. Not one company treats their customers as Subaru did once upon a time.

Yeah I have to stop myself going forward from two things related to our “trade”. Must stop taking in cars that have sat over anything but pavement. Must stop looking at Craigslist for $500 beaters that need work. The latter is much more difficult to shake. But now I really don’t have a good local spot to work on the big jobs like yanking the engine etc. So they got me. They finally got me. Hence the mention of a leased new (hurts to type that word) ride for my wife. Closing chapters and hopefully writing some new ones.

Yeah I just have to see what kind of hurdles I have to jump now with the DMV here. My insurance company hasn’t said boo. The DMV hasn’t said boo. But the other party’s insurance who paid me off well and totaled the car on value - they sent me some letter I have to run by my attorney. I’m a little confused. It looks like I may have a simple option but then again - it’s a confusing and I have an attorney for this mess anyways. So , what they told me on the phone back when was that due to its age here in CT they were letting me run the car regardless. But told me that if I sold the car the next owner would need a full inspection. Rear ended , still coming along but I’ll be fine. Chiropratic seems to help. Therapy, keep stretching , that stuff. But more importantly the car is ok too. Doesn’t look perfect but it’s completely operational. Same as the driver. So reluctant to drive newer cars. And my wife could care less too. Old stuff we can fix. And like Rick GD says these new cars aren’t worth owning. I think we’ll put my wife in a leased car soon with the maximum insurance so you don’t get screwed three days out of the showroom etc etc. Ok you got a little rant here. Cheers

Newest edit 5/20/2024 Thanks for the help with the list pre-edit. Car is now on the road for a month or more. Doing well for its age. Still looking for these items: Right side mirror - not the older this style 70’s but the 79-80 style. If you have any parts from that era that you’d like to sell send me a message please. Send PM or email to moosens@yahoo.com Thanks!

Indeed , that first version 2.2 Yes the Naugy valley , I live in beautiful Bridgeport. Seymour Auto Wrecking on Rt 67 east of 8. Found them to be a throw back. Treated kindly with respect and with just a few minutes until they closed. The others yards I remember you’d be lucky if they didn’t harass you for walking in at that time. Anyways , life in CT pushing older Subarus around. I’m that guy. Now about this car. Torn in two directions at least. Keep it , sell it , or take the engine and goodies out for my 79 wagon ?

Looking pretty straight forward now. $27 used alternator from a family owned yard up in the valley. Maybe spent $10 in gas too but well worth the drive. Fusible link looked fine. Fuses also. And now the shifter seems as it should although that lock out switch can be sticky. Drive on !

Thanks , yeah I sure was going to check all the fuses and fusible links etc In fact that happened when I swapped in this crapola aftermarket alternator... Now somebody direct me to the Spare Time Department so I can buy some.

But I’ll mention this again. Something happened weird when I shut the car off in neutral. And it still seems reluctant get out of park easily. Yes I know about the release button but haven’t depressed it yet. I’ve been depressing the brake pedal many times to finally get it to release. That was to get it on and off the flatbed. Bad feeling about the neutral or interlock switch, maybe grounding. But I’ll have that alternator swapped soon and take it from there.

Yeah I’d agree. Just that by old school standards I’d see a light or have weak enough headlights that I’d have noticed. Hot as all hell now. I’ll dig out an alternator from storage and swap it in next chance. Cheap rump roast replacement from the box store is what’s on the car now. Pretty sure I have a good original unit. I’ll find out soon. And you will too. Tune in for the exciting conclusion ..... This is why folks like us get the AAA Plus Plan.

Dramatic I know but I don’t know what else to say at this time. Fresh battery, but I could tell something else was wrong. Yesterday I pulled into a Wendy’s and put the noisy car in neutral and turned it off to make my transaction. Got my salad and went to start , NO GO. Faaaahhk I thought my battery was good but nope. Jumped it, had my wife follow me to the store but the car died again just a hundred yards or so. Really went into limp mode or dying mode just a few seconds after taking off. At the same time I notice I’m out of gas too ! Yeah it was a rare one of those days kind of moment. After turning red we retrieved a gas can at my storage fairly local, got gas, and tried to jump it again but as soon as I took the cables off it went to death spasm. So I declared the battery totally spent and bought a new one for the “starting at” cost of $178 , I laughed way too loud and too long in the store when the kid said “they start at $178” . This car won’t be with us longer so I went cheapest. Installed the battery , had fresh gas , and it ran fine. Drove home , went to work later , went to storage at lunch all no issues. Then I head home from work , no problem on the parkway/highway , then almost home the car starts to crap again. And yeah now the fuel is low too but this is truly not a fuel issue. Will not start. Acting like the battery is drained out. No lights on dash but I’m guessing I’d better have that alternator checked now. But I think this is related to a faulty neutral/lock out switch or grounding. Half asleep. I’ll fill in more later. I just left the car a couple blocks away or so. Have not tested anything yet

For parts at the dealer you might be able to get them to go through another distribution hub. For older parts that’s what I have had to do here on the east coast. Sounds like I would have used my ten pound sledge and a steel drift stuck into the axle end. They can be bears.

That’s one good thing about the newer steering column set up on later models. Old school , yes it would double the blink frequency and your bulb would be shot. Good luck but please post your results. I’m always pushing around older Subarus and we are currently running 2 third gen Legacys and 1 fourth gen Leg. Outback

Don’t forget the age of the ECU. Tough call from here but as mentioned age and electronics are not a happy couple.

Generally referred to as the Hub. And yes you should gather a good set for going forward. As you may have found out those splines sure will strip out. Good luck.

Both EA81 4WD It’ll certainly help. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ maybe that helps too ?

Yikes ! Maybe soon...

Yeah about 35 years ago my buddy gave me big balls because those halogens were new and first thing I did was grab the bulb not the plate. That bulb did work and lasted plenty long. But I can still hear him .... Agreed , too many spikes. And too many morons driving past twilight with only their DRL’s on.

So this is just an industry screwing once again ? We know bulbs blow too soon , and have to buy LL type ? So the rest of them , and there are many and several levels of so called integrity for lack of a better word , those all blow fast ? Im not a movie fan at all but this harkens back the that one from the 80’s I think “Blade Runner” where the android dude just wants to know “how long have I got to live ??? “ to Harrison Ford if I’m correct.

For the record , to my eyes the factory installed fuses have a solid colored plastic and not so translucent as shown. Maybe not to your eyes. TBD

Bulbs. I’m going to find that receipt and you know the rest. This current set I went one or two notches up from the bottom. Something like $34 for the set. But I’ll be raising cane over the $fiftysomethin’ $et that just blew.