bushbasher

once I get my justy back together I'd be up for some stocker wheelin'. I will be going up the powerline trail in sooke with the justy to see if its passable, and I'll let you know.

I feel the same way.

the nissan case is tried and true, no high range reduction though. This can be overcome with new possibilities in diff gearing though. the samurai has high range reduction that varies depending on the model, and there are 4:1, 6:1, 8:1 etc reduction gear kits for this t-case. There might be a bit more work involved in shifter routing. The drive flanges are not the same as nissan/subaru, but the ujoints in the driveshafts are the same, so samurai flanges can be put on a nissan driveshaft or vice versa. I think there are 1 or 2 people who have done this route, but they are not regulars on the board AFAIK. toyota doesnt have a divorced t-case unless you buy a $$ adapter. But even then whats the point, it uses different flanges, normally runs passenger side drop so it would have to be clocked upright, and its a fair bit bigger than needed unless you have ideas about 37" tires and axles to back them up.

Ive got another bad one. I was helping a friend with her car, and trying to explain some car related stuff while going to work to diagnose the problem. I popped the hood, lifted it up, and saw some gas struts there. Figuring they are what hold the hood up I just let go to pull the dipstick. Usually I have good reflexes and this wouldnt have happened but the hood just fell right down on my head and almost knocked me on my rump roast. It really didnt help her confidence in having me work on her car My problem is that I'm always thinking too far ahead, and not about where my hands are or where I'm putting tools. I can work on cars really fast and know what I'm doing, but its always the stupid stuff that gets me and makes me look like an idiot.

One day I was working on my VW scirocco, looking for leaks at the injectors which are on the firewall side of the engine. I'm leaning over the engine, with my elbow on the exposed cam pulley supporting my weight, when I ask my buddy to turn the engine over. My elbow shot out from under me and I did a face plant into the intake manifold, then shot up and smashed my head on the hood. A more recent one was on my justy. I put a new disty rotor on, but didnt tighten the little screw. I was just driving along one day when it suddenly died. It took me forever to realize that the screw had come out and bashed the hall sensor in the disty. The screw was still there so I put it in, bent the fins on the sensor back, and drove it home.

rooinater had an 8" lifted wagon, I think it was done by mudrat

some gas stations, and fishing/outdoors stores will have them.

You'll have to go to shawnigan/duncan, or out to sooke/jordan river to find access to the logging roads. The problem is that the roads are mostly flat, but there will be huge washouts that would swallow a stock sube. Often there are old gates with bypasses that are pretty rough too. Your best bet is to get a backroads mapbook (earlier editions are better) and start exploring with some friends. A GPS that can map where you have been is also really handy. I never really wheeled a stock sube so I don't know where the easy trails are. The Powerline trail out in Sooke could be a possibility. The issue here is that places where unlifted vehicles can go get closed off first because thats where people beat on their stolen cars and set them on fire. Places that require bigger rigs stay open.

when I stuck 27" tires on my unlifted sube the camber looked crazy. Subarus have bad camber stock, the small wheels and tires just hide it better than big ones.

thanks!

lemme guess, rod through the balancer shaft and out the side of the block. Did your oil pressure warning light ever come on?

they are very cool, I wish I could find/afford one

you know what a justy is right? It looks like a little suzuki swift. It sounds like you are talking about a turbo GL or an RX.

I saw a 4wd RS, it was an early bodystyle (square headlights) white with body colored bumpers, a red pinstripe job, and 12" alloy wheels. May have had a mild bodykit. Looked very factory (I dont doubt at all it was) and very very 80s. I still dont believe that there were factory turbo justys, we'd have seen pictures or at least factory documentation/literature somewhere. Maybe there was a company somewhere making dealer option turbo cars or something.

I dont know how many times I've said this but the similiarities between the suzuki 3 cyl and the US market subaru 3 cyl end at the fact that they are both 3 cyl. Nothing bolts between them, the suzuki is a 1.0l 6-valve, the subaru is a 1.2l 9-valve. The subaru justy land speed record car turned something like 11000rpm but it was destroked, and ran a custom cam/intake/exhaust setup. Ive had my justy up in the 8-9k range before for a short period, and there is some power there with the stock engine, but not beyond that. The justys weak point is the oil pump. There are some people rallying justys in ontario, but I've read that they keep throwing rods, presumably due to lost oil pressure. My current theory on the oil pump problems is that the inner and outer rotor are not hardened, and so debris chews them up fairly quickly. Also contributing is the possible lack of lubrication to the oil pump shaft. Other than that the motors are pretty stout.

A side roll or "flop" during rock crawling usually doesnt involve any cabin intrusion anyways. Like I said, the tubing is there to scrape and pivot on things instead of the sheetmetal. Often a truck with an exo will have bracing going through the body panels, or a seperate internal rollbar to take care of serious rolls. I've seen them in action, and they work. Making an exo for a subaru is just a matter of distributing the load where the tubing welds to the car. Weld 1/8" plates to the rockers etc then weld the tube to that. this increases the surface area that impact is acting on. Unibodies are very strong dimensionally, in fact stronger than most frames. If you increase the surface area you are transferring the force to the whole unibody instead of a thin piece of sheetmetal.

Let me give you an example of the use of an exo cage: Say you are rockcrawling on some serious boulders, and your car bounces a little sideways off the nice line you picked. The only way out is to wait for a winch, or take the line where the rock is going tear your doorskins off on its way to smash the rear quarter window and taillight. Wouldnt it be nice to have a big piece of tubing to take the hit instead, while you power out of the hole? Yes a winch will do the job but thats boring, slow, and lame. If you daily drive your car and do the odd trail every few weekends, an exo is not really the right thing. If you are a hardcore rockcrawler, it is pretty much essential. Sheetmetal catches rocks a lot more than tubing.

the Justy's short wheelbase got the best of me once, I did a 180 in a corner and smacked into a concrete barrier. No excuses though, I was going way too fast and sliding through the wet corner in 4wd. The tires where crappy 12"ers with about 1 square inch of contact patch. When the back outside tire hit the painted line it was all over. Don't worry, the justy is fine!

there is a fair bit of travel left in the front suspension if you put in a longer strut cartridge. I think that the cartridge from a vw super beetle can be adapted and allows about 8 or 9" travel instead of about 6". Beyond that the suspension needs a redesign.

flat-crank v8s (f1, lotus esprit v8, audi, ferrari) are 1st order imbalanced but 2nd order balanced, and can rev much higher and faster than a cross-crank v8 which is what most american engines are. A cross crank v8 is 1st order balanced but 2nd order imbalanced. Anyways, still looking for help on this!

Ready to put my justy motor back together sans manual. I "think" that when the crank is at #1 TDC, the dot on the balance shaft sprocket should point at the crank, but I want confirmation first obviously LOL. Please dont make me get all confused trying to figure out the timing by thinking about how it cancels out the 2nd order vibrations. Or is it 1st order gah

88 GL wagon 6" homemade lift 31" Grabber MTs Lada T-case Near Future: Nissan T-case Fully custom long travel a-arm suspension utilizing Nissan 720 drivetrain components. Far Future: a uniform paint job

I pay $800 cdn per year for basic insurance. And thats with no accidents! Thanks ICBC! Im not sure how it all works in the US but I think that its quite different in BC. I don't think we pay yearly "reg", we just pay (mandatory) insurance which maybe includes registration?. I never hear the word registration unless I'm changing registration as in I bought a new car and I have to register it in my name. Car insurance is all controlled by the government thru ICBC (Insurance Corporation of BC)

man, you guys arent cheap enough! heres my brakedown in CDN funds: car 900 (88 GL 4x4 wagon) toyota 15" wheels free steel 75 (6" lift, used some metal I had around) tires 150 (used 31" grabber MT) t-case 40 driveshafts 50 (shortened them myself) exhaust free extra rear end for diff and axles 75 welded rear diff free +misc 150? so thats about $1500 CDN and should have been less cause I payed too much for the car.

just find a complete hub from a local wrecking yard. Its not worth it to buy new parts for these things, unless you have a really nice example. dealer parts are way too expensive.