bushbasher

By your definition my steep gravel driveway would be considered extreme, especially after a good rain washes little gullleys in it. I would use the word extreme for stuff like the rubicon and other tougher trails. Heck I wouldnt even call my lifted t-cased wagon extreme. Its a good trail rig maybe.

What? The only thing awd is good for is handling. If you actually want to leave the dirt roads, awd is not going to beat low range and locked 4wd at anything. Heres a little list of advantages and disadvantages for ya: GL + way cheaper/easier to fix More capable/durable off-road Scratches and dents, who cares? Wedged against something, give it more gas and yell yeeeehaa! - Wont impress the jones's (it will scare them though) Less comfy, but not bad Slower Forester + Comfy/Better for long trips Safer on the road (airbags, abs etc) has reasonable power - Lots of plastic bits to break and scratch off-road Parts/repairs are more expensive, especially if the dealer is doing the work Scratches and dents will devalue the car more than a lifted GL is going to cost. Less capable stock, and costs more money to get into the same performance range as a GL. It depends what you want to do. If you want to 4x4 and go where others dont dare to go, get a GL. If you want to do road trips and find those private camping spots, lift the forester.

Thats most likely a legacy body on a truck frame. Legacy suspension would not handle tires like that for any real 4x4ing. Too much leverage with tires that big and heavy and offset.Then theres gearing and axle strength issues.

if they are the same taper you are okay using subaru nuts. I use subaru lugs and studs for my yota steels.

If I were building a rally car, Id rather have a bit more vibration then have the rubber strut tops rip out on a jump. Besides, if its a race car who gives a s##% about vibration. REAL race cars run heim joints all the way around

You could angle the cvs a little forward, it wouldnt hurt anything and you could probably get 3" or so out of that. Then it'll be just like a lotus europa Is this car purely a challenge car or do you want to end up with something road legal?

I drive my justy around in 4wd on dry pavement. Hitting 4wd in a hard corner would definitely upset the balance of the car, but it can handle being driven in 4wd. At low speeds it tends to understeer when Im on the gas (letting up will bring the tail around), but once I get up to speed it feels just like AWD.

Its funny, I posted my car on a local 4x4 board, and Im pretty much famous for it now. Everybody on the island who 4x4s knows about that lifted subaru out in Sooke, when they find out I'm the builder they start asking me how I did it, and they want to see it finished so they can see it 'wheel. I have never had a single negative response in person, a couple losers trying to mock it on the internet, but then I find out they dont even have a 4x4 of their own

A few weeks ago I punted the justy into a concrete barrier. I was in 4wd and going around a sharp wet right hand turn at 50mph. I started sliding but the 4wd was holding me there. Then the rear DS tire hit the painted line and that was the end of it. I spun 180 and into the barrier on the outside of the turn. Popped a tire, bent a rim and control arm. No body damage and no witnesses though luckily. I wont be trying that again. Crashing sucks.

The nissan case is not that big, and also runs upright (better for sube) instead of angled like the sammy. However the sammy case has better ratios including a high range reduction that will make your highway gearing like stock with big tires. To run the sammy case upright you may have to rework the tcase shifters and the mounts might be funny too, I dont really know. The nissan and samurai driveshafts use the same ujoints, but different size flanges. you can make hybrid driveshafts with nissan/subaru flanges on the differential and transmission ends, and suzuki tcase flanges to bolt up to the tcase. Its just mixing and matching some parts. If you can find a suzuki LJ80 t-case (rare) I think that would be the ultimate. Its got 3.something:1 low range, a nice high range reduction, and its upright. Strong enough too. I will be either running a nissan or an lj80 tcase when I get around to redoing my subaru to get rid of the lada case which sucks.

Theres an advantage to ifs/irs in diff clearance (usually) and it handles better at high speeds off-road because of lower unsprung mass. This is why hummers have IFS/IRS, since they need to be fast and stable in off-road combat. This leafsprung boxed ifs multilink etc etc is just adding complication to drivetrain thats already seeing the limits of its durability. For all the effort you still get a rear end with weak stubs and tiny CVs. If you are going to put in leafsprings (ech), might as well just stick a solid axle under too, since the car is going to ride like crap anyway.

I like the hood work! And the steels with the bodykit looks kinda cool too. The pumper has me laughing though.

In my case its more like engines are as reliable as the previous owners make them

Its unfortunate, there is a design problem with the oil pump that leads to premature wear especially if the oil isnt changed regularly (with these cars being so cheap, that happens fairly often) If not for this the motor would be as reliable as the other subarus. Its a little screamer too, I've passed 8k rpm several times. The land speed record car was going at 11500rpm

heres a pic of what Im talkin about: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/data/500/129r180.jpg

The r180s look almost identical to r160s just bigger, and they use flanges on the side outputs instead of those stupid splined stubs. The most common gear ratio is 4.375:1 (I think). They are mounted offset in the early-mid 80s datsun 720 4x4, with a long shaft on one side and a short on the other. They could be easily mounted centrally with long side shafts on each side. This would give a track about 6-8" bigger than a stock sube (by my eyeball estimation) The way I would do it is to make a cage with a-arm mounts that holds the diff inside of it. A skinnier steering rack would have to be sourced for the front from a sandrail or perhaps a stock rack chopped up and modified. Using the stock rack would cause bump steer. This would make pretty much the perfect IFS/IRS setup, but it requires more fabrication than I've seen on any off-road sube.

ej20 doesnt match up to the ea82t transmission. You need to make or buy an adapter plate.

are those hankooks on that rocco? They look exactly like my tires. Your rocco is in nicer shape than mine :cool:

The stock ~97" wheelbase of the ea82 is great for climbing. In fact most rockcrawling rigs go even a bit longer to around 110" However the overhang is the killer. I would bob the rear and cut the back hatch out ala Baja. Then, mount the rad over the engine like Subarubrat and chop the lower front end off at a ~45` angle. For drivetrain: ej22 to DR 5spd to Nissan 720 tcase, running to front and rear nissan 720 r180 diffs. Then nissan long side axle shafts all around, with custom a-arm suspension utilizing the 720 pickup hubs all the way around. Then I would have durability with 33" tires, extremely long travel, and locking hubs on all 4.

putting a tcase in an ea82 is a royal PITA. I did it but I had to move the crossmember 3" forward, then make custom a-arms that swung back. The stock ea82 control arm doesnt sweep back, putting the axle over the inner bushing. This means youd need like 10" of lift to have enough clearance there. An ea81 arm sweeps back and the axle goes down beside the bushing. With the tcase mod (at least in my case) the axles are actually pushed further into the cups than stock. This because the diff hangs a bit lower in relation to the suspension compared to the stock setup. The lower diff makes the axles straighter at rest, and therefore closer together at the diff. Also, the change in this geometry causes the axle to push in even further towards the diff as full extension is reached.

same here

you can always swap out the auto for a dual range 5spd. If you are going to run it in the derby, pop out the front axles, but leave the outer cups in the hub to hold the wheels. Then leave the tranny in 4wd mode and voila! rwd loyale. Then weld up the rear end and you'll have a great car for mini figure-8s and whatever.

I just got an 88 justy 5spd 4x4 from nanaimo for $350 (listed for 500) Mine was low rust, owner said HG but it was just a bad thermostat. Popped a new one in and I was off. Of course it has some other small issues though (stupid stupid carb ) but still well worth it. If this justy you're looking at is not rusty and FI its well worth it as long as its not pushing blue, has a rod knock, or a busted tranny. If it has one of these and you have some time and know how, talk 'em down and do some work and you will have a good little car.

pretty sure those codes are for an ea82, not a justy, so thats not much help :-\

-88 justy Gl carbbed I pulled the codes out of the ECU 'cause the CEL light comes on randomly while driving. The car sometimes has trouble starting even though the choke works right, and tends to hesitate for a bit when I try to accelerate. Does anybody have an FSM or something so they could tell me what a code 33 for my car means? Thanks guys.