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Everything posted by bushbasher
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I'd run it :drunk:But then again I'd run anything. hose clamps, duct tape, zip ties, they're the name of the game when you're wheelin with me In fact I have 1 hose clamp being used as a balancing weight on a driveshaft that I made about 1mm out (and it works perfectly now, up to 200km/hr ) The other hose clamp is holding my broken t-case mount right now, and hasnt failed me on any of my backyard excursions yet, though I will fix it properly before I put it on the road.
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How wide is too wide (tire question)?
bushbasher replied to Bratenstein's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I know a guy who just put 205/60/15s with 5" backspace on his loyale with no big rubbing problems. -
I dont think anybody bothers. Every subaru I've seen has the bumpstops broken off and missing anyways. I've bottomed out my lifted subaru time and time again, havent had a problem yet.
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Time to build a killer motor
bushbasher replied to Do It Sidewayz's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I've been thinking of building a turbo motor from the crank up for awhile now. I think the key to a reliable motor will be to keep the low comp pistons, and completely ditch the stock fuel/ignition system including the subaru fuel rails, for ms 'n edis. -
That would be cool. what size tube are you squeezing them into?
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that is far stronger than stock. The stock suspension arm is made of stamped sheetmetal, open on the bottom, with a single brace spot welded on, and about an inch of weld holding the bushing race on. Dimensional strength increases much more with diameter than with thickness. This piece is thicker than stock, has larger diamater tubing, and includes a triangle shape unlike stock which is just v shaped.
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Looks Beefy! What will you use for bushings?
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reread the first line in his post
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Compression test results
bushbasher replied to BCSubguy's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
if theres more than a 20psi difference I get worried, 10 I wouldnt get worried about unless it was a motor used for performance not commuting. -
soon to be one less subaru in this world :[
bushbasher replied to Roobaflu's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Why cant you just leave all the lift blocks in? If you have extra struts you can weld another strut top on top of your struts with some flat stock or a 4 1/2" diameter tube to give you the extension you need. Or just run a 1.5" difference front to back. That wont look TOO bad. Why cant you just use an ea82 steering rack? -
soon to be one less subaru in this world :[
bushbasher replied to Roobaflu's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Just put the fwd rear subframe in, and get around to the conversion later. You can run stock front suspension height in the front, your cv angles and camber will be better than stock in the front, but you will lose 1.5" of ground clearance. No big deal. It sounds like you just need to get it back on the road and give yourself a break. Is your clutch working now? Not sure about the knuckles/balljoints issue. -
Yeah, I went through a huge puddle in my turbo wagon. It was kind of a crevace between bedrock, filled with water. So my passenger side wheel fell right in and the turbo and intake went right underwater. That put the nail in the coffin for that car. It sat for 2 weeks with water in the motor cause we couldnt get back up into the woods to save it (the rivers were running to strong to cross due to heavy rain). Amazingly there were no bullet holes
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What it should of looked like.
bushbasher replied to Phizinza's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
wow, thats really sleek! Good work man. Imagine a new Impreza WRX BRAT! I would totally buy one of those before the sedan -
Stripping Loyale; Logisitcal Problems...
bushbasher replied to MorganM's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
just throw a sheet of plywood under it drill a hole in it and tie it the front to the car with some rope. The plywood will stay under the car until it gets to the flatdeck. Then cut the rope and drag the car off the plywood onto the deck. problem solved. -
3.9 to 4.11 is a %10 difference. Noticeable, but I wouldnt go through alot of work for the change.
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you wont have any trouble migging the stock y-pipe. Just keep the poiwer setting on low.
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we're talking about rear axles, you pop both sides and throw the axle in that little storage compartment in the floor of the trunk
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Vancouver Island Suby Mini-Meet
bushbasher replied to bushbasher's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Hey, you can have plenty of fun in a stock subaru. Next time maybe we'll do some loggin' road cruisin or something. We could go up harborview to shields lake but theres a few gatekeeper obstacles that could mean rocker damage to a stock suby if not driven with some care. Its up to you. you could get some 14" 6lug toyota 2wd rims for dirt cheap, drill em out for 4 lug, and stick some 205/75/14 tires(about 25-26") without a lift. You'd be good to follow us along the main trails for sure. not everything is as tight as my back yard. -
where ya puttin the rad?
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thats a very very cool baja bug man! Did you use the vw tranny? buy an adapter or make one yourself?
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not sure on what you guys have in oz, but a 5spd dual range in a pre '89 non-turbo subaru up here has a 3.9 ratio. There are no 4.11 ratio DR transmissions here, and nobody so far on this board has fooled enough with the trannys to mix and match parts. Is this a leone (the boxy one) or the legacy (ej22 engine, more modern styling)? We don't even have dual ranges up here for the newer cars. The t-case mod is awesome for an off-road rig, but we don't have as strict of regulations for vehicle modifications as you. You need 6" or more of lift, which would make it illegal on the road in Aus. Thats probably why you havent seen anyone in oz build one. If you want to make an off-road only rig, theres an faq I started with info on the t-case modification: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24388