RenaissanceMan

Hey guys, I am totally cool with doing a little driving to meet up somewhere for 4wheelin etc... as long as you guys plan it in a SOUTHERLY direction. Sacramento is already like 5 hours away.. but if you guys plan somewhere a little more reasonable for me, then I'd make plans. -Mike

*shrugs* eh..... Its not really an issue of "realigning" in my opinion, but rather being able to properly clean the surface. It wont take more than an hour to get the motor out of there anyway, and while its out you can toss on a new oil pan gasket and main seals. I have done an ea71 (1600, but pretty much the same) head gasket with the motor in the car, and honestly I didn't save myself any time doing it that way. Be prepared to deal with the head studs being stuck in the block btw. The best tool I have found for removing head studs is this universal chuck looking thing that is awesome because you can use it with an impact wrench. I know cal-tool sells it but I dont have the part number on hand. -Mike

Id be using it for daily driving of course! Even though I have plenty of ea81s lying around to stuff into my wagon, for some reason I just love the smaller displacement. Its like reinforcement for the underdog factor. Does anyone know off hand if ea71 and ea81/2 4wd trannies had the same spline count on the stub shafts? I might have to swap out inner cups. Whenever I have done 5 speed swaps I have just used the ea82 split driveshaft. For this one I might bite the bullet and resize the single piece driveshaft. I want to add the 5 speed, but I also want to keep the weight close to stock, so I am going to have to find things here and there to remove to slim it up a little

opps, my bad. Missed that in the Text (I just looked at the info on his profile).

So I have had my handful of drivetrain swaps, engine swaps, etc... So I got this 5sp d/r trans out of an 89.. I have an old school ea71, and also an ea71 fat case (bell housing will work for either), and I have a 77 Stage 1 4wd wagon sitting in storage BEGGING to be fixed... Has anyone ever mated a 5sp d/r to an ea71, and then fit in a gen 1 4wd? IIRC the trans has a little more girth, so it gets awfully close to the trans tunnel in an ea81 car.. For our smaller Gen1s, am I going to have to either "cut and paste" till the trans tunnel is bigger, or add a necessary 1-2" lift to make my drivetrain fit? -Mike

And what happened to the bed that was part of it??? Do you have only half a brat? oh btw welcome to the board and which salisbury do you live in? I'd be all about that GF coupe if it was close -Mike

Welcome to the board! Have you hooked up a vacuum guage to see if there is any vacuum when the engine screams on up to redline? If the vacuum is somewhere in the 15-20 inches as if it were idling, then you might have a problem with your distributor. One of the springs on the mechanical advance mechanism could be missing/broken. Back to ideas on troubleshooting on the carb, I have gotten inproperly rebuilt carbs before. Can you verify that the float valve is cutting off properly and the fuel pump isnt just pushing fuel down the engines throat? Good luck, hope thats springs some ideas

if I find time in the next few days I will glance into my stage 1 wagon and see, I think paul has the right idea that things are "inverted" on a stage 1 CSK (O'Reillys now) part number (ready-aire or ready-rad) #399135 Napa part number (NHC) #6603197 Autozone (transpro) #399135 Rockauto.com (proliance) #399135 Here's the application listing DODGECOLT(1976 - 1983) DODGECOLT CAROUSEL(1976 - 1977) DODGECOLT CUSTOM(1977 - 1983) DODGECOLT DELUXE(1982 - 1983) DODGECOLT GT(1976 - 1977) DODGED50 PICKUP(1979 - 1982) DODGEPOWER RAM 50(1983 - 1986) DODGERAM 50(1985 - 1986) DODGERAM 50 CUSTOM(1983 - 1986) DODGERAM 50 ROYAL(1983 - 1985) DODGERAM 50 SPORT(1983 - 1984) MITSUBISHIMIGHTY MAX(1983 - 1986) MITSUBISHIMIGHTY MAX S(1983 - 1984) MITSUBISHIMIGHTY MAX SP(1983 - 1985) MITSUBISHIMIGHTY MAX SPX(1983 - 1986) PLYMOUTHARROW(1978 - 1980) PLYMOUTHARROW GS(1978 - 1979) PLYMOUTHARROW GT(1978 - 1979) PLYMOUTHARROW PICKUP(1979 - 1982) PLYMOUTHCHAMP(1979 - 1982) PLYMOUTHCHAMP CUSTOM(1979 - 1982) PLYMOUTHCOLT(1976 - 1983) PLYMOUTHCOLT CUSTOM1983 PLYMOUTHCOLT DELUXE1983 PLYMOUTHSAPPORO(1978 - 1981) Yes all in all we have mitsubishi to thank. All these late 70's and early 80's dodge products were actually mitsubishi inside. Anyway price ranges from $57 to $80 depending on where you get it/ Merry christmas

its usually easier to install the rear main onto the bellhousing and then install the bellhousing onto the block. Gives you a chance to reseal around that area at the same time. (as well as motivation to replace that leaky oil pan gasket) Best advice I can give you either way, and this has worked for me every time... Silicone the ouside and grease the inside. The silicone on the outside acts as a lubricant when you're installing it. -so nicely that you literally push the seal in with your thumbs. (makes it easy to adjust it where you want it too) Once the silicone sets up, then its function is a little extra sealant for any scratches that may have been put in the bore. The grease on the inside is to keep the rubber from "sealing dry". Exposing the rubber to friction without any lubricant in there will harden the sealing edge of the rubber and sometimes will "cut" into the crankshaft.

OK, so there you have it The dimensions are almost the same, just slightly smaller. The most notable change is that the elbow is a little shorter. I hope that can still work for you guys. the new one is also 5/8 instead of 1/2, but that shouldnt be an issue. If anyone needs hose adaptors, I can get those too.

1977 stage 1 ea71 1600 4wd s/r Free!!! Currently engine and trans removed

I might agree with ihscout54... lack of knowledge might be a huge part of it as well. I've seen some older aluminum parts by mitsubishi, isuzu, and mazda and believe me, they were just as bad. Russia is the worlds primary source of aluminum, and back when our beautiful subarus were being manufactured, Russia was covered by its Iron Curtain. After ww2 the United States became very involved in rebuilding japan. Perhaps we influenced their aluminum production or had some part in supplying it? If you think subaru didn't have the greatest alloys, have you spent some time looking at aluminum-cast american transmissions from that same era? Our casting technology was so bad we had tranmissions leaking THROUGH the aluminum because of porosity.

My favorite gen 1 mod is the diagnostic holes in the floorboards, --allowing air to circulate into the cab from underneath the vehicles allows for real-time diagnostics of engine drivablility. Needing to roll down the window is virtually the same as a check-engine light coming on. Most vehicles at high altitudes or snow-prone areas come with these diagnostic holes built in and its a matter of pulling back the carpet in the right area. Because of the need to more closely monitor engine running conditions as the vehicle ages, these diagnostic holes come with a "sensitivity-aging" feature, that allows a greater amount of air flow as the vehicle's milage adds up.

Subaru lug pattern is unique in that it is 4x140mm. The only other make that uses that pattern is older Peugeots. As for your problem solving itself, it sounds like there are two possibilities I can think of. the timing advance on your distributor came "unstuck" or more likely, whatever was plugging your secondary main jet on your carburetor finally got sucked through, or pushed back in the float bowl from a backfire. I had the most obnoxious of symptoms relating to junk in the fuel line randomly plugging up main jets on a Chevy LUV. The final solution after I cleaned them out (again) was to add an extra fuel filter right before the fuel inlet on the carb.

Found a possibility and its on its way, I wont see it until the 12th. Might need some very minor "fitting adjustments" To recap this is for the Gen 1 stage 2

LMAO.. I love to look at the speedometer in my stage 1 wagon... 120 mph if your falling from the sky...

Todd, got your heater core the day before thanksgiving. Working on finding a suitable "match" from my heater core catalog today.

Hey guys, I am just wondering if anyone is planning on doing a winter outing between us California and Nevada guys? Any kind of Xmas tree run in the works? -Mike

Does anyone have a BAD gen1 stage 2 heater core they can ship me? I only have access to a stage 1 heater core right now... I can look into modifying a different heater core that will fit if others are interested, I just need something to reference to. Heck I'll even pay shipping costs. -Mike

Well I guess I shoulden't have called it an AI port to add confusion. On the older ea71's yes the 4 ports were for the AI system, which simply added extra oxygen to the exhaust ports to burn the HC and CO directly after it came out of the combustion chamber, and was hot enough to have the best chance of reacting. Early ea71's did not have catalyitic convertors, so this was "as good as it gets". (they did haave a premuffler, but that was simply adding a little bit of pressure to the exhaust system to "keep things hot") On the later ea71 (fatcases), they went down to just the 1 port, in the same spot and all that, but they didnt use it for the AI system. That single port became the new supply tube for the EGR valve (the older ea71 had a long EGR tube that ran around the backside of the engine to the bottom of a cylinder head) Since the new ea71's were now catalytic convertor-equipped, the AI system was electronically controlled, and used 1 really BIG tube. That later AI tube was attached to a vacuum controlled valve on the backside of the engine (pass side on 82 and earlier, driverside on 83 and later) that went down to only one exhaust port flange. The introduction of oxygen was further from the port in this fashion, but because the exhaust gasses were going through a cataliytic convertor down the line, they would be heated up again at that point and the catalytic convertor would promote the chemical reaction. its hard to explain without pictures... basically that port changed functions when they switched down to only 1 -Mike

Right the reason I was asking about the "fatcase" thing with the heads is because the fact that you only have 1 AI port is not a result of them being JDM...(I didn't know if you were blaming it on that or not) The fact is that all fatcases had only 1 AI port because they had changed to the same setup that the EA81's came with. I do have a "fatcase" manifold... but nothing else matches up unless you convert everything to the modern setup. (newer ones dont have that vacuum distribution bulls**t bolted onto the front of the manifold where the carb is, etc) And also I believe the fatcase manifold has the spots for the low and high speed duty solenoids. Long story short, some emission control things would have to be capped off. I do have a plethora of (early) ea71 heads lying around. Send me a PM if you want a set and I'll dig two out of storage for ya

*sigh* you would prefer to use those than invest $8 in a set of standard NGK BPR6ES's?

Did you make sure those JDM ea71 heads weren't from an ea71 fat-case? Though now that I think about it, I am pretty sure fatcase heads will bolt on to an older style ea71... BTW, be forewarned about the head studs... I have gone thru 2 or 3 ea71 engines where the head studs were so well siezed into the block that they broke off. (sad times) It is POSSIBLE to carefully clean the decks with the studs still in there, but I always worry about having to re-do headgaskets down the road. good luck -Mike

are we talking an 85 hatch or an 85 station wagon? (ea81 or ea82)

So after going thru the costs & availability of rotors, it makes it hard to compete with ebay prices. R1 concepts seems to make a drilled and slotted rotor for anything. I'm not sure what kind of tolerences they work with or what quality of rotor they start out with. I do know that poor quality grey irons will result in rotor cracking. If I was to machine and sell these on a regular basis... a pair of ea81 vented brembo rotors, drilled and slotted, would have to be in the $130 range a pair of ea81 vented bradi rotors, drilled and slotted, would have to be $115 a complimenting set of PBR metallic pads I can get for $40 I did some searching, and if I was to go with the cheapest rotors I could find, I might be able to get an ea81cheap set out for $80 If someone wanted to send me their used rotors, all the CNC time and bead blasting would cost about $75 Shipping of course, would be straight across whatever shipping costs.. *update* looking at other rotors... ea82F Brembo $130 ea82R (turbo) Brembo $105 ea81 NON-vented (early) Brembo $120 EA71 Bendix $90 EA71 Beck Arnley $115 So anyway, thats what I can do these for, give me your thoughts/opinions on prices. I dont know if I really want to be selling these, seeing as they are BRAKES, and I dont want to get sued or anything like that..