RenaissanceMan

and now it would appear that I can drill/machine wheels... What is really nice is that I get it on exact center with the hub centric. The face angle cutter allows me to cut into the two recycled holes and change the 139.7mm to exactly 140 mm diameter. No worrying about freeway vibrations! I left plenty of room on my jig so I can drill other holes in my jig for non 6-lug bolt patterns. I'm going to do some searching at the junkyards for some pretty aluminum alloys. If I can find sets that dont have the casting "hollowed" on the back side inbetween the original bolt pattern, then I can redrill accordingly. (and also mill out the hub centric cause a lot of things have a smaller diameter)

Yes, pretty much any internally regulated alternator thats got the normal charge light and 2 wire connector

It seems like everyone can use this forum search function but me... I have never been able to find anything useful using the search. Anyway, yeah it eliminates the function that keeps the fuel pump from running without the charging system functioning. This has its ups and downs. My thoughts were, with the points ignition you dont want to be leaving your ignition on anyway. Also all my gen1 carburetors leak the fuel out of the float bowl, so using the normal safety system it would take for ever to get it to start because I would have to crank it long enough for the fuel to make it back up to the carb. I guess the down is that if you got into a fender bender in a bad situation it would keep pumping fuel, and if you werent concious to turn off the ignition then you could be in for a world of hurt. hmm..

with an external regulator unfortunately not directly. HOWEVER, I did a bit of wiring diagram study years ago when I wanted to convert my alternator on my gen 1 to internally regulated. Its actually as easy as cutting the connector off of your regulator and splicing 3 sets of wires together and plugging your spliced connector back into the harness. Lemmie look around and see if I can find one of the connectors I modded.

Be sure to pay attention to what year your ea81 is 80-82 Ea81's had the air suction valve for the exhaust on the passenger side, where as everything 83 and later had it on the drivers side. (might make for a a very confusing exhaust leak when you bolt up your y-pipe, because the cast piece on the head makes up and extra inch)

I pulled the engine today.. and found grease everywhere. (oh and there was a motor in there too) anyway.. it took me 71 minutes from driving up to garage where car is to motor hanging from cherry picker outside of engine bay. I feel like a slacker, -it made me late for my dance lesson. Problem with the engine is that the tensioner was worn out on passenger side timing belt and the belt jumped a tooth. I'll spend $100 and have the valves and seats dressed. Electrical problems are really my specialty, I am just scared of what ghettoness I will find. (this subaru had a SIDE post battery in it... which is ok I guess, but this was still using the TOP post terminals...) if you look in the engine bay picture.. that blue wire is the only wire coming off of the battery, like a 12 awg wire, and yes, it provides the source V+ for the starter. *shudders* Does anyone know if an ea81 steering wheel will fit on an ea82 btw?

$250 I ended up with another soob... I think this is #10 overall and #4 in my current fleet right now. 86 3door GL 4wd with 5sp Hi/Lo. I guess the only downer is that its ea82 Carby. BUT LOOK THE REAR LIFT STRUTS STILL WORK!! My plans are to make this one my daily driver, because it wont be very fast but it will be efficient with that ea82C in there. Since its ea82, parts are a lot easier to find for it as well The kid who owned it didn't really take care of it :-\ so I have my list of problems. Engine needs a reseal if nothing else. Electrical system has been screwed with (and that REALLY scares me). Brake pedal sinks, and the brakes in general are scary. Needs new tires.

Got the diff back from the welder today. Looks excellent. For anyone who is interested in the metallurgy of it all... Internals were cleaned with laquer thinner. (not the bearings, thats why they look ugly) using a torch the spider gears were preheated to about 700 degrees. Each joint at a time We discussed the alloy the gears were most likely made of, and decided upon TIG welding, with a filler metal that was a medium high carbon (similar to some tool steels), but with a little bit of nickel and copper alloying for greater ductility. Post-welding was just general insulation for a slow cool rate (normalizing the welds). The theory is that the bearings and stub shafts didn't reach transition temperature. I'll see how they look after I clean them up. If I question the bearings then I'll put on new ones.

From what I have been reading, as long as the gears are welded properly (which they will be) then results have been good. The whole thing about "flicking" the car I can totally agree on. Its not that big of an investment so far and its worth trying to see how it performs. There is a race on March 8th that the car will be in from what I understand. Plans are to have the "race" trans in by then. Btw, I was just thinking it would eat CVs cause I know the guy is going to want to sneak it onto the asphalt every once in a while. I'll post results when I have them, on dirt and on tarmac.

Sorry, I should mention this is for a dirt track car and someone who is determined to stay in the Fwd class. LOL, believe me I am scared myself. I can imagine CVs will go as frequently as oil changes.

NEXT STOP WELD SHOP!!! (btw this is a 2wd 5sp)

Just for clarification, orings are orings are orings.... Its just a matter of knowing what type of material your using and what firmness. Usually when people go to "insert store here" and find and oring thats moderately the right size, they don't ask what type of oring it is. 99% of what stores keep in stock is Buna-N. Buna-N is a universal material that has both decent petroleum resistance, and decent water resistance. They are temperature resistant to about 250 degrees farenheit. After researching all the specs and recommendations for different types of orings, The most readily available, decent material that I can find in the metric sizes for subaru o-rings is Viton. Their hardness is about right (70 or 75), they have greater oil resistance and their temperature rating puts them at being able to handle 400 degrees farenheit. For small quantities I recommend trying McMaster-Carr (http://www.McMaster.com) They have a really good selection of metric viton stuff. Some of the more common sizes they even have in Viton-E (even more superior of a material) Also it is wise to pay attention to how much pressure is required to make your oring fit. With a light coat of dielectric grease, the oring installed should not alter the torque specs of bolts. If you have to cram/stretch that oring into place, its probably to much stress on it and it will fail due to excessive pressure. Good luck with your o-ring hunt. -Mike

No worries. Bolt pattern is the same to put on the smaller flywheel. I have that setup in my GLF right now because it was the only thing I had available to me at the time. As long as your tires aren't notably oversized then there shouldn't be any problem running the smaller clutch.

Yes the early electronic ignition had an external module. They're kinda big and bulky... anyway, I believe you can take the pickup assy out of an ea81 disty and put it in your ea71 disty to eliminate that.. provided its the same manufacturer. Nippondenso I think? I'm pretty sure the hitachi ones were only ea81 and later, and had a different design.

Yay!!

Late model ea71s do have the feedback carb etc, exactly like the ea81s of the same era, and the manifolds do look identical. However, the ea71 late models are still just as narrow as the early ea71 models and the manifolds are about an inch shorter than the ea81s and ea82s. I have both examples sitting side by side at work

Hey good luck on your spfi conversion. Fuel injection is so much nicer in many ways. I wanted to ask if you are putting in an ea81 to do the conversion onto, or the whole ea82 engine with spfi?? I am worried that you havent measured the manifold coming off of your ea71 fat case yet... -Mike

I didnt realise people wanted wheel spacers? what would you use them for? putting gen 2 jackman wheels on a gen 3?

I've been working on the wheel spacers for the rear. Got all the machining done yesterday, and now its a matter of waiting for hardware that I ordered to arrive and verify that everything works together. By the time I was done there was a LOT of aluminum all over the place -Mike

THIS is clearly the most beautiful subaru... ever... Its like the Mona Lisa -Mike

Ok, I remember learning about this in my metallurgy class, but I referenced back to my notes just to make sure. When iron is heated above a certain temperature (temp depending on the percentage of carbon), the crystal structure changes to "austenite". Upon a slow cooling process, the majority of the structures change to Pearlite & ferrite in low carbon steels, and Pearliite & Cementite in high carbon steels (cast iron falls in that catagory). If the iron is cooled very quickly it forms martensite. Martensite is very very strong but very brittle. Getting the right combination of all these crystaline structures is what gives certain metals their certain properties. For cast iron... in any regular cooling process, slow or fast... not all of the austenite transforms into something else. The problem with having these free-floating austenite crystals is that during normal service and mild temperature changes, they can occasionally alter crystal structure to something else. This happening when none of the other crystals around it are changing, creates stress. *Stress that can lead to warping on our brake rotors, or microfractures that eventually lead to cracking. Interestingly enough, inertia plays a role in the process. When the cooling process is stopped, molecules have a chance to "settle into place" and therefore become resistant to transformation. *With the cryo-treating process, The cooling keeps going. The idea is that continuing the temperature drop in the cooling process down into the negative 200 degree F range, allows more austenite to be transformed into another structure. Even though the metal gets extremely cold, the cooling process hasnt been stopped, transformations are still occuring because things havent "settled". The end result from cryo treating is that there is a minimal amount of austenite after the treatment process, greatly reducing the chance for warping and fracturing during service. (fun fact for the day) -Mike

Jackbombay this is GD, GD this is jackbombay. Lets try and communicate in a polite fashion? :-\

Ah yes, the ol piston grenading problem... I have had ea71 and ea82 pistons grenade on me before. I think it usually starts with one of the ring lands cracking and breaking

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a2/Subaru_1500.jpg I wanna go where that picture was taken.. Right there in the background you can see a 360, an FF1, and a Star or another FF1?. Is that what heaven is like?

I almost wish I lived in Arizona. You can park cars and forget about them. When you come back to them they are just like you left them (although the interior may be melted, lol) The 79 brat I got from phoenix years ago had an immaculate body. The engine that was in it actually fired up and ran on its own with a new water pump and a little clearing out of the cooling system. Lord knows how long THAT thing was sitting... Let me grab some snacks and sit down while newsoob chants for some pics.